The culture of mezcal: from Oaxaca to the world

Mezcal is not simply an alcoholic drink: it is a cultural expression with more than 500 years of history, an artisan spirit that reflects the geography, climate and traditions of each region where it is produced. If tequila is the famous son who conquered the bars of the world, mezcal is the wise father who stayed at home guarding all the secrets.

Over the last ten years, mezcal has enjoyed a spectacular revival. From being considered a rustic drink of Oaxacan villages, it has gone on to star on the menus of the best bars in the world, including many in the UK. But to enjoy it properly, you have to understand it. And that is what we are going to do in this article.

What exactly is mezcal?

Mezcal is an agave spirit. Full stop. All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Tequila is a specific category within mezcal, made exclusively with blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber) in particular regions of Jalisco and other states. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made with more than 50 different species of agave and in nine states of Mexico.

This diversity of agaves is what makes mezcal infinitely more complex than tequila. Each species of agave has a unique flavour profile, influenced by the soil, altitude, climate and age of the plant (some agaves take 25-30 years to mature).

The agaves: the raw material

The most important types of agave for mezcal are:

• Espadín (Agave angustifolia): The most common, representing 80-90% of production. Matures in 6-8 years. A versatile flavour with smoky, herbal and slightly sweet notes. It is the perfect entry point into the world of mezcal.
• Tobalá (Agave potatorum): Wild, small, growing at high altitudes among limestone rocks. Matures in 12-15 years. A complex flavour with floral, mineral and fruity notes. It is one of the mezcals most prized by connoisseurs.
• Tepeztate (Agave marmorata): Wild, can take 25-35 years to mature. Its flavour is intense, mineral, with notes of damp earth and dried herbs. A unique experience.
• Madrecuixe (Agave karwinskii): Grows in the central valleys of Oaxaca. A vegetal, herbal flavour with notes of mint and eucalyptus.
• Arroqueño (Agave americana var. oaxacensis): One of the largest agaves. Produces mezcals with notes of chocolate, earth and spices.

The artisan process: from field to glass

The traditional process of making mezcal is an ancestral work of art passed down from generation to generation. Unlike the tequila industry, many mezcaleros still use pre-Hispanic methods.

1. Jima (harvest)

The jimador selects the mature agaves - those that have developed their quiote (flower stalk) - cuts the leaves with a machete or coa, and extracts the piña (heart of the agave). A piña of espadín weighs between 30 and 80 kg.

2. Cooking in an earth oven

Here is the fundamental difference from tequila. The piñas are cooked in a conical oven dug into the ground, lined with volcanic stones heated with firewood. They are covered with agave leaves, mats and earth. The cooking lasts 3-5 days over a slow fire.

This process is what gives mezcal its characteristic smoky flavour. The hot volcanic stones slowly caramelise the agave sugars, creating layers of flavour that are impossible to replicate in industrial ovens.

3. Milling

The cooked piñas are milled to extract the juices. The traditional method uses a tahona - a large stone wheel pulled by a horse or mule - which crushes the agave fibres in a circular stone mill. Some artisan producers still mill by hand with wooden mallets.

4. Fermentation

The juices and fibres of the milled agave are placed in wooden vats (usually oak or holm oak) where they ferment naturally with wild yeasts from the environment. This fermentation lasts 5-15 days depending on the climate and time of year. No commercial yeasts are added.

5. Distillation

Artisan mezcal is distilled twice in copper stills or in clay pots (clay distillation is the oldest and produces mezcals with unique mineral profiles). The master mezcalero controls the distillation by experience, adjusting temperatures and separating heads, body and tails by smell and taste.

Categories of mezcal

The Mezcal Regulatory Council (CRM) establishes three categories:

• Mezcal: May use industrial methods (autoclave ovens, diffusers, distillation columns). Most cheap commercial mezcals fall here.
• Artisan Mezcal: Cooking in an earth or masonry oven, milling with a tahona or mill, fermentation in wood or clay, distillation in copper or clay.
• Ancestral Mezcal: The strictest category. Cooking in an earth oven, milling by hand or with a tahona, fermentation in clay or wood, distillation in clay pots. It is the purest and most traditional mezcal.

How to taste mezcal properly

Mezcal is NOT drunk like a tequila shot. That is sacrilege. Mezcal is tasted slowly, in small sips, respecting the complexity of the spirit.

1. The glass: Use a wide-mouthed glass (a veladora or jícara) or a wine glass. Never a narrow caballito.
2. Sight: Observe the colour (joven is clear, reposado has golden tones) and the tears it forms when you swirl the glass.
3. Nose: Bring the glass to your nose gradually. First at 20cm, then at 10cm, then directly. Identify the aromas: smoky, fruity, herbal, earthy, floral.
4. Mouth: Take a small sip. Let it coat your whole mouth. Chew the mezcal (yes, chew). Note the texture, the flavours, the bite of the alcohol, the evolution of the flavour.
5. The kiss: After swallowing, make a kissing sound with your lips slightly moist with mezcal. This releases the last retronasal aromas.
6. Orange with worm salt: The traditional accompaniment is a slice of orange sprinkled with worm salt (salt mixed with ground maguey worm and chilli). Not lime, not normal salt.

Mezcal in the UK

The UK has become one of the most important European markets for mezcal. There are specialist bars with menus of more than 100 references. Many Mexican restaurants in the UK offer curated selections of artisan mezcals.

To buy mezcal in the UK, look in specialist spirits shops, in Mexican shops or online. The most accessible, good-quality brands include:

• Del Maguey: A range of single-village mezcals, each from a different community in Oaxaca.
• Montelobos: An accessible, well-balanced espadín, perfect for starting out.
• Alipús: Several mezcals from different communities at a reasonable price.
• Bozal: Wild-agave mezcals (blends of tobalá, cuishe, etc.).

Mezcal in cocktails

Although purists prefer mezcal neat, mezcal cocktails have opened up a world of possibilities:

• Mezcal Negroni: Substitute the gin with mezcal. The smokiness with the Campari is magical.
• Mezcal Paloma: Mezcal, grapefruit juice, lime, a touch of agave and sparkling water.
• Oaxaca Old Fashioned: Mezcal, tequila reposado, agave syrup and Angostura bitters.
• Last Word: Mezcal, green Chartreuse, Maraschino and lime.

The sustainability of mezcal

The mezcal boom has raised legitimate concerns about sustainability. Wild agaves (tobalá, tepeztate, madrecuixe) are under pressure because they take decades to mature and global demand has grown exponentially. Several producers and organisations are working on reforestation and sustainable cultivation programmes.

As consumers, we can help by choosing brands that document their sustainable practices, that pay fair prices to the producing communities and that diversify their range beyond the most threatened wild agaves.

Mezcal is a universe in a glass: history, territory, culture and tradition distilled by artisan hands that keep centuries of knowledge alive. Discovering it is a journey with no end. Explore more about Mexican drinks in our section of recipes and discover the best places to enjoy it in our directory of Mexican restaurants.