Essential Spices and Herbs of Mexican Cooking

If chillies are the soul of Mexican cooking, spices and herbs are its backbone. Every salsa, every mole, every adobo and every stew depends on a precise combination of aromatics that add depth, complexity and that unmistakable flavour that sets Mexican cooking apart from any other. Some of these spices are universal (cumin, cinnamon, clove); others are exclusively Mexican and practically unknown outside the country (epazote, hoja santa, chepil).

In this guide we present the essential spices and herbs of Mexican cooking, how to use them correctly and where to find them in Spain.

The dried spices

Cumin

Cumin is the most used spice in Mexican cooking after chilli. It appears in practically every salsa, adobo, mole, marinade and stew. In Mexico, whole cumin (seeds) is used, toasted in a dry pan before grinding. The aroma of freshly toasted and ground cumin is incomparable with the pre-ground supermarket cumin.

Uses: Adobos for meats (birria, carnitas, barbacoa), red salsas, red rice, frijoles charros, broths.

In Spain: Easy to find. Cumin is also fundamental in Spanish cooking (especially Andalusian and Canarian). Buy whole cumin and grind it on the spot for better flavour.

Tip: Toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until they release their aroma. Grind in a mortar or spice grinder. The difference with pre-ground cumin is enormous.

Cinnamon (Ceylon)

Mexican cinnamon is Ceylon cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum), not the Cassia cinnamon commonly used in the United States. Ceylon cinnamon is milder, sweeter and less pungent than Cassia. It is sold in sticks and used in both sweet and savoury dishes.

Uses: Moles, rice pudding, atole, café de olla, hot chocolate, fruit punch, pork adobos.

In Spain: Ceylon cinnamon is the one traditionally used in Spain too (unlike the US, where Cassia predominates). It is found in any supermarket. Buy sticks, not powder.

Clove

Clove provides a warm, sweet, intense aroma. It is used sparingly because its flavour is very powerful: 2 to 3 cloves are enough for a large stew. It is essential in moles, adobos and pipianes.

Uses: Mole negro, mole rojo, birria adobo, picadillo, Christmas punch.

In Spain: Available in any supermarket. It is the same spice used in Spanish cooking for rice dishes and stews.

Allspice (pimienta gorda)

Allspice (Pimenta dioica) is native to Mexico and Central America. It is not black pepper: it is a different berry that tastes like a mix of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg (hence its English name: allspice). It is a fundamental ingredient in Yucatecan cooking and in moles.

Uses: Cochinita pibil, Yucatecan recados, moles, adobos, tamales.

In Spain: Found in spice shops and in the spice section of large supermarkets. It is sometimes labelled "pimienta de Jamaica". In Latin American shops it is usually available.

Achiote (annatto)

Achiote is the seed of the Bixa orellana tree, native to tropical America. In Mexico, it is mainly used in paste form: the seeds are ground with spices (cumin, pepper, oregano, garlic, bitter orange vinegar) to create the "recado rojo", the base of cochinita pibil and other Yucatecan dishes.

Uses: Cochinita pibil, pollo pibil, tikinxic (Yucatecan grilled fish), yellow rice.

In Spain: Achiote paste (brands such as El Yucateco or La Anita) is found in Latin American shops. Loose seeds are also available in spice shops. The ready-to-use paste is the most practical option.

Fun fact: Achiote is used as a natural colouring (E160b) in the global food industry. Orange Cheddar cheese, yellow butter and many snacks owe their colour to achiote. You have probably consumed it without knowing.

Black pepper

Black pepper is used in Mexico in a similar way to the rest of the world: as a basic seasoning for meats, broths and stews. However, many traditional Mexican recipes specify "freshly ground black pepper" because pre-ground pepper quickly loses its aroma.

The fresh and dried herbs

Coriander

If we had to choose a single herb to represent Mexican cooking, it would be coriander (Coriandrum sativum). It is used fresh, chopped, as a finishing touch in practically everything: tacos, green salsas, guacamole, green rice, ceviches, soups, broths. It is the aroma that defines Mexican food as much as chilli.

In Spain: Easy to find. It is sold fresh in supermarkets (Mercadona, Carrefour, Lidl) and at greengrocers. In Spain it is called "cilantro" or sometimes "culantro" (not to be confused with the long Caribbean culantro, which is different).

Genetic note: About 10 to 15% of the population has a genetic variant that makes coriander taste of soap to them. If you are one of those people, you can substitute it with flat-leaf parsley, although the flavour will not be the same.

Epazote

Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides) is the most exclusively Mexican herb of all. It has a penetrating, almost medicinal aroma reminiscent of camphor, mint and petrol. It sounds terrible, but in the right amount it transforms a dish: black beans without epazote are not black beans.

Uses: Black beans, huitlacoche quesadillas, tamales, tortilla soup, esquites, tlacoyos.

In Spain: Hard to find fresh. Some Latin American shops sell it dried (it loses some aroma but works). The best option is to grow it in a pot: it grows easily in temperate climates and is practically indestructible. Seeds available online.

Substitute: There is no real substitute. Some suggest using a small amount of fennel or tarragon, but honestly it is better to leave it out than to add something that does not taste the same.

Mexican oregano

Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens) is different from Mediterranean oregano (Origanum vulgare). It belongs to a different botanical family (Verbenaceae vs Lamiaceae) and has a more citrusy, more earthy and less sweet flavour than the Mediterranean one. It is used dried, crumbled between the hands before adding it to the dish.

Uses: Pozole (sprinkled on top), salsas, adobos, beans, marinades, tacos.

In Spain: Available in Latin American shops. If you cannot find it, Mediterranean oregano works as a substitute, although the flavour will be slightly different. Greek oregano (intense and aromatic) is the closest to the Mexican one.

Hoja santa (holy leaf)

Hoja santa (Piper auritum) is a large, heart-shaped leaf with an intense aniseed aroma. It is fundamental in Oaxacan and Veracruz cooking: it is used to wrap tamales, as an ingredient in green moles and to flavour fish and pork stews.

In Spain: Practically impossible to find. There is no perfect substitute, but a combination of fresh fennel and basil can approximate the aniseed-herbaceous profile.

Hierba buena (spearmint)

Mexican hierba buena is similar to European mint but with a milder flavour. It is used in aguas frescas, cocktails (Mexican mojito), green salsas and some soups.

In Spain: Spanish hierbabuena is essentially the same plant. Available in any supermarket or greengrocer.

Avocado leaf

The leaves of the avocado tree (not the fruit) are used as a spice in southern Mexico, especially in Oaxaca. They are toasted on a comal and added to black beans, moles and barbacoa. They have a subtle aniseed flavour, different from that of hoja santa.

In Spain: Very hard to find. If you have an avocado tree, you can use its leaves. Make sure it is the Mexican variety (Persea drymifolia), as the leaves of other varieties may contain toxic compounds.

Mexican spice mixes

Recado rojo (prepared achiote)

Achiote paste, cumin, allspice, oregano, garlic and bitter orange. The base of cochinita pibil.

Recado negro (chilmole)

Burnt dried chilli, spices and herbs. Used in the Yucatecan black filling.

Basic adobo

Rehydrated dried chillies, cumin, oregano, garlic, vinegar. The base of adobos for meats.

Where to buy Mexican spices in Spain

• Latin American shops: The Mexican and Latin American shops in Spain are the best source for hard-to-find spices such as dried epazote, Mexican oregano and achiote paste.
• Spice shops: Establishments such as Casa de los Aromas in Madrid or shops in the Raval in Barcelona have many loose spices.
• Supermarkets: Cumin, cinnamon, clove, pepper, coriander and hierbabuena are available in any supermarket.
• Online: Amazon and specialist online shops offer Mexican spice kits.

With these spices and herbs in your pantry, you have everything you need to cook authentic Mexican food. Visit our recipes to put them into practice and discover more about the ingredients in our products section.