Mexican Ceviche: Techniques, Variations and the Perfect Recipe

Ceviche is one of those dishes that sparks passionate debates about its origin: Peruvian or Mexican? The honest answer is that both countries have ancient, legitimate ceviche traditions, but they are very different dishes. Peruvian ceviche is minimalist, with leche de tigre and ají; the Mexican one is a fiesta of ingredients, colours and textures. In Mexico, ceviche is not just a dish: it is a coastal way of life, a Sunday beer accompaniment and an art that every coastal family guards as a treasure.

What makes Mexican ceviche different?

Mexican ceviche is distinguished from the Peruvian and Ecuadorian versions by several elements:

• More ingredients: Mexican ceviche has tomato, onion, coriander, chilli, avocado and often cucumber. It is more like a sea salad than a minimalist dish.
• More acidity: Lime (Mexican green lime) is used generously, and the fish is marinated longer than in the Peruvian version.
• Varied textures: Tortilla chips, tostadas, crackers and avocado add textural contrasts not found in other Latin American ceviches.
• Hot salsa: Chilli is a key player: serrano, habanero or even Valentina sauce are added to taste.
• Served on a tostada: The classic presentation is on a crisp corn tostada, not in a deep bowl like the Peruvian one.

The history of ceviche in Mexico

Mexico's coasts - both the Pacific and the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean - have traditions of raw fish marinated in citrus that date back to pre-Hispanic times. The coastal peoples of Nayarit, Sinaloa, Guerrero, Colima and Veracruz prepared fresh fish with lime and chilli long before the concept of "ceviche" as we know it today existed.

The word "ceviche" probably comes from the Quechua "siwichi" (fresh or tender fish), which points to a South American origin of the term. But the technique of marinating fish in citric acid predates the word and was practised independently in both regions.

Regional variations of Mexican ceviche

Sinaloan ceviche

Sinaloa is the cradle of the best-known Mexican ceviche. It is made with prawns, tomato, red onion, cucumber, coriander, serrano chilli and plenty of lime. The prawns are briefly cooked in boiling water (not raw) and then marinated in lime. It is served on tostadas with avocado and hot salsa. It is the ceviche you will find in most Mexican restaurants outside Mexico.

Acapulco ceviche

Acapulco, in Guerrero, has its own ceviche school. It is made with white fish (sierra, sea bass or red snapper) cut into small cubes, marinated in lime until it is fully "cooked" (white and opaque). It is mixed with tomato, onion, green chilli, coriander and green olives. The olives are the distinctive touch of Guerrero ceviche.

Nayarit ceviche (shredded zarandeado fish)

In Nayarit, in addition to the classic ceviche, a version is made with fish previously grilled (zarandeado) that is shredded and marinated in lime with the same ingredients. The result is a ceviche with smoky notes reminiscent of both the sea and the grill at the same time.

Yucatecan ceviche

In Yucatán, the ceviche is flavoured with bitter orange in addition to lime, and habanero is added: the spiciest chilli in Mexico. It is a ceviche that burns but that the acid of the bitter orange balances wonderfully. It is served with tostadas or Salmas crackers.

Veracruz ceviche

In Veracruz, ceviche is often made with crab (jaiba) or octopus, reflecting the richness of the Gulf of Mexico. It is flavoured with capers and olives (obvious Spanish influence) and served with crackers.

Aguachile

Aguachile is the wild cousin of ceviche. Originally from Sinaloa, it is raw prawns (yes, completely raw) bathed in a runny green sauce of serrano or chiltepin chilli, lime, coriander and cucumber. It is explosively spicy, intensely sour and eaten immediately: it is not left to marinate. There are black versions (with soy sauce and dried chilli), red ones (with chilli de árbol) and purple ones (with red onion and beetroot). It is the favourite dish of beery Sundays in Sinaloa and is gaining followers all over the world.

The science behind ceviche: does the lime cook the fish?

Technically, the citric acid does not "cook" the fish in the thermal sense. What it does is denature the proteins: it changes their molecular structure in the same way heat would, making the fish go from translucent to opaque and from a soft to a firm texture. However, the acid does not kill all the parasites and bacteria that heat would eliminate.

That is why it is crucial to use fish of the utmost freshness and quality. In Spain, buy fresh fish of the day from trusted fishmongers. If you use fish that is not of the utmost freshness, opt for the Sinaloan version with cooked prawns, which is equally delicious and safer.

Recipe: Classic Mexican ceviche (Sinaloa style)

Ingredients (4 people)

• 500g medium prawns, peeled and deveined
• 6 to 8 green limes, juiced
• 2 medium tomatoes, in small cubes
• 1 medium red onion, finely diced
• 1 cucumber, peeled and cubed
• 1 bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped
• 1 to 2 serrano chillies or jalapeños, finely chopped (deseeded for less heat)
• 1 ripe avocado, cubed
• Salt to taste
• Hot sauce to taste (Valentina, Cholula or Tabasco)
• Corn tostadas to serve

Method

1. Cook the prawns: Bring salted water to the boil. Add the prawns and cook for exactly 2 minutes (until pink). Drain immediately and plunge into iced water to stop the cooking. Cut into pieces if large.

2. Marinate: Place the prawns in a bowl and cover with the lime juice. Add the red onion. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (up to 2 hours maximum).

3. Mix: Add the tomato, cucumber, coriander and chilli. Mix carefully. Season with salt.

4. Serve: Just before serving, add the cubed avocado (if you add it earlier it falls apart). Serve on corn tostadas with an extra squeeze of lime and hot sauce to taste.

Version with white fish

If you prefer the raw fish version: use 500g of ultra-fresh sea bass, corvina or sea bream. Cut into 1cm cubes. Marinate in lime for 2 to 3 hours in the fridge until completely opaque. The rest of the process is identical.

Tips for a perfect ceviche

• Absolute freshness: Ceviche does not forgive mediocre ingredients. Fish of the day, freshly squeezed limes, fresh coriander.
• Do not over-marinate: If you leave the fish too long in lime, it becomes rubbery. 2 to 3 hours maximum for fish, 30 minutes for cooked prawns.
• Lime, not lemon: In Mexico, green lime is used (called "lima" in Spain). It is more acidic and aromatic than the yellow lemon. Use limes if you can find them; if not, yellow lemon works but you will need more.
• Red onion: It is essential. White onion is too strong and the sweet one does not provide the necessary contrast.
• Cold: Ceviche is eaten cold. Not at room temperature, fridge-cold. Chill the bowl, the ingredients and the tostadas if you can.

Ceviche in Spain's Mexican restaurants

Ceviche is one of the Mexican dishes that best suits the Spanish palate, perhaps because Spain has its own tradition of raw and marinated fish (boquerones en vinagre, seafood salpicón). Many Mexican restaurants in Spain offer ceviche and aguachile on their menu, and some make it with local Spanish fish, creating interesting fusions.

Also look for ceviches in Spain's Peruvian restaurants to compare styles and discover which you prefer. Both traditions are extraordinary. And if you fancy making it at home, visit our recipes section for more ideas on Mexican coastal cooking.