Pulque: the ancient drink that's back in fashion

Before tequila, before mezcal, before any distilled spirit, there was pulque. This fermented drink, made from the agave sap of the maguey, was the sacred drink of the Mesoamerican civilisations for more than 2,000 years. The Aztecs considered it a gift from the gods - specifically from Mayahuel, the goddess of the maguey - and its consumption was regulated by strict laws: only priests, elders and warriors could drink it freely.

For centuries, pulque was the most consumed drink in Mexico. The pulque haciendas of the central highlands were economic empires. But the arrival of industrial beer in the 20th century, combined with smear campaigns that branded it a 'drink of the Indians', almost drove it to extinction. Almost. Because in recent years, pulque has enjoyed a spectacular revival that has returned it to the bars of the most modern venues in CDMX, and little by little it is conquering international palates.

What exactly is pulque?

Pulque is a fermented (not distilled) alcoholic drink obtained from the aguamiel of the pulque maguey (Agave salmiana, mainly). The aguamiel is the sweet sap that collects in the centre of the plant when its quiote (flower stalk) is removed. A tlachiquero (the aguamiel gatherer) extracts the sweet liquid from the heart of the maguey twice a day using an acocote - a long, hollow gourd that acts as a natural pipette.

Fresh aguamiel is clear, sweet and non-alcoholic. When it is left to ferment naturally with the bacteria and yeasts present in the pulquería environment, it transforms into pulque: a whitish, viscous, slightly tangy drink, with an alcohol content of 4-7% (similar to beer).

The history: from gods to disdain

Pre-Hispanic era: the drink of the gods

The Aztec codices document that pulque had a central role in Mexica religion and society. Mayahuel, the goddess of the maguey, was depicted with 400 breasts to suckle her 400 children (the Centzon Totochtin, the 400 rabbits of pulque). Each rabbit represented a different level of drunkenness.

Pulque was used in religious ceremonies, war rituals, agricultural festivities and as an offering for the dead. But its everyday consumption was strictly regulated: getting publicly drunk without permission was punishable by death (for a first offence your head was shaved, for a second you were killed). Only elders over 70 could drink freely.

Colonial era: the pulque haciendas

With the Spanish conquest, pulque was democratised. The Spanish lifted the Aztec restrictions and pulque became the drink of the people. The pulque haciendas of Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and the State of Mexico became enormous businesses that produced thousands of litres a day and transported them to the capital on special trains called 'pulque trains'.

The pulquerías of CDMX were social centres where the working class gathered to drink, eat and socialise. There came to be more than 1,000 pulquerías in the capital.

20th century: the decline

The arrival of industrial breweries (backed by German and American capital) in Porfirian Mexico marked the start of pulque's decline. Rumours were spread (never proven) that pulque was fermented with human excrement or with a 'muñeco' made of dirty cloth. These smear campaigns, combined with urbanisation and the Westernisation of tastes, drastically reduced pulque consumption throughout the 20th century.

21st century: the revival

Since 2010, a new generation of Mexicans has rediscovered pulque as part of their cultural identity. The neo-pulquerías of neighbourhoods such as Roma, Condesa and Coyoacán in CDMX offer fresh pulque in a modern setting, with curados (pulque mixed with fruit) in flavours such as guava, pine nut, oats, mango and walnut. Pulque has become a symbol of cultural resistance and indigenous pride.

Types of pulque

• Natural pulque (tlachique): Pure pulque, without flavourings. White, slightly viscous, with a sour-sweet flavour and a yeasty aftertaste. It is an acquired taste - the first time it can surprise you, but it becomes addictive.
• Curado pulque: Pulque mixed with blended fruit and sugar. The most popular curados are: guava, oats with cinnamon, pine nut, mango, walnut, tomato with chilli, celery and cucumber. Curados are the best entry point for those trying pulque for the first time.

The properties of pulque

Pulque is not just an alcoholic drink - it is a fermented food with interesting nutritional properties:

• Natural probiotics: The fermentation produces lactic bacteria beneficial to the gut flora, similar to kefir or kombucha.
• Vitamins: It contains B-group vitamins (B1, B2, B6) and vitamin C.
• Minerals: Iron, phosphorus and calcium.
• Essential amino acids: It contains tryptophan and lysine.
• Low in calories: A glass of natural pulque has fewer calories than a glass of beer.

In pre-Hispanic and colonial Mexico, pulque was considered medicinal. It was prescribed to pregnant and breastfeeding women to increase milk production, and to the sick as a tonic. The famous Mexican phrase 'le faltó un hervor' (to say someone is a bit mad) comes from pulque: a pulque that did not ferment well 'was missing its boil'.

Pulque in the UK and Europe

Getting fresh pulque outside Mexico is practically impossible, as it is a living drink that degrades quickly (it lasts 2-3 days refrigerated before turning too sour). However, some companies have developed tinned or pasteurised pulque for export, although purists argue it is not the same.

In the UK, the most realistic way to try pulque is to visit a Mexican restaurant that occasionally imports it for special events, or to attend Mexican culture festivals where it is sometimes offered.

If you are curious about Mexican fermented drinks, tepache (a fermented pineapple-peel drink) is an easier alternative to make at home. Find more about Mexican drinks in our section of recipes.

How pulque is made: the process

1. Selecting the maguey: A mature maguey (8-12 years) is chosen just before the quiote sprouts.
2. Castrating the maguey: The quiote is cut so that the sap collects in the centre of the plant instead of feeding the flowering.
3. Scraping: The tlachiquero scrapes the inside of the heart of the maguey with a metal scraper to stimulate aguamiel production.
4. Gathering: With the acocote, the tlachiquero sucks up the collected aguamiel (2-6 litres a day) and deposits it in a container. A maguey produces for 3-6 months before dying.
5. Fermentation: The aguamiel is poured into vats where it is mixed with already-fermented pulque (the 'seed' or starter). The fermentation lasts 12-24 hours.
6. Consumption: Pulque is drunk fresh, within the next 2-3 days. It is not bottled, not pasteurised (traditionally), does not travel well.

Legendary pulquerías of CDMX

If you ever visit Mexico City, these pulquerías are an essential stop:

• Las Duelistas: In the historic centre, founded in 1912. Natural pulque and classic curados in a setting with colourful murals.
• La Risa: Another century-old institution in the centre. An authentic, popular atmosphere.
• Pulquería Los Insurgentes: In Roma Norte, with a modern neo-pulquería aesthetic and excellent creative curados.
• La Nuclear: A modern concept with gourmet curados and DJ sets at the weekend.

The future of pulque

Pulque is enjoying its best moment in decades, but it faces challenges. Urbanisation threatens the maguey-growing areas of the highlands. The lack of young people willing to be tlachiqueros puts the transmission of the knowledge at risk. And mass commercialisation could denature a product that is, by definition, artisan and local.

But as long as there are magueys in the Mexican highlands and tlachiqueros who sing to them as they scrape them (yes, many tlachiqueros sing to their magueys), there will be pulque. And as long as there is pulque, there will be a direct connection with the deepest and most ancestral Mexico. Explore more about Mexican food culture on our blog.