Thick Oaxacan corn tortillas with lard, black beans, salsa, and quesillo.
About this recipe
Oaxacan memelas are thick, handmade corn tortillas, slightly oval, with pinched edges forming a rim to hold the toppings. They are cooked on a comal, spread with asiento (lard with crunchy chicharrón residue), and topped with refried black beans, salsa - usually red or pasilla oaxaqueño - shredded Oaxaca cheese or quesillo, and chopped onion. The masa base is thicker than a regular tortilla but thinner than a sope, with a texture that is slightly crispy on the outside and soft within. They are the quintessential breakfast and supper in Oaxaca's markets, where "memeleras" prepare them to order on enormous clay comals. Each memela is unique, shaped by hand with the dexterity that only years of practice can give. Their simplicity is deceptive: the quality of the corn, the asiento, and the salsa determine whether a memela is good or extraordinary.
History & Origin
Memelas are one of the oldest antojitos in Oaxaca, with direct roots in pre-Hispanic Zapotec cooking. The word "memela" comes from the Nahuatl "mimilli," meaning something rolled or elongated. In Oaxaca's markets - especially the Mercado 20 de Noviembre and the Central de Abastos - memeleras hold a privileged place: they are women who inherited the craft from their mothers and grandmothers, and who every morning grind heritage corn on a metate or mill to prepare fresh masa. Asiento, the key ingredient, is the fat left at the bottom of the pot after frying chicharrón, with crunchy bits of pork that give it an incomparable texture and flavour. In Oaxaca's Central Valleys, memelas are distinguished from tlayudas by their smaller size and thicker masa. Each region of Oaxaca has its own variant: in the Mixteca they are made with red corn, in the Isthmus they are filled with dried shrimp, and in the Sierra they are prepared with ayocote beans.
Estimated cost
$18.06
Total cost
$3.01
Per serving
* Approximate prices based on Australian supermarkets
Nutritional information per serving
310
Calories
12g
Protein
36g
Carbohydrates
14g
Fat
6g
Fibre
580mg
Sodium
* Approximate values. May vary depending on ingredients used.
Method
- 1
Knead the corn masa with a pinch of salt and a little water if needed until soft and pliable and no longer sticking to your hands.
- 2
Divide the masa into 6 equal portions. Roll each into a ball and flatten it with your hands or a tortilla press into a thick disc (about 12 cm across and half a centimetre thick). Pinch the edges upwards to form a rim that will hold the toppings.
💡 The masa should be thicker than a normal tortilla.
- 3
Heat a comal or cast-iron frying pan over a medium-high heat. Cook each memela for 3-4 minutes on the first side and 2-3 on the second, until it has golden spots and the masa is cooked through.
- 4
With the memela still on the comal, spread a generous layer of asiento (unrefined pork lard) over the top. Add a spoonful of refried black beans and spread them evenly.
💡 If you don't have asiento, heat pork lard with a few small pieces of pork crackling until crisp.
- 5
Spoon over red salsa, then add the shredded quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese) and the chopped onion. Serve straight away while hot.
Related Articles
Rate this recipe
Founder, Recetas Mexas
Mexican from Puebla, IT professional and foodie. Author of 1000+ authentic Mexican recipes adapted for home kitchens worldwide. Based in Madrid since 2018.
Read moreRelated Recipes
Oaxaca Cheese Chicharrones
Crispy fried Oaxaca cheese discs served with guacamole and salsa, a nationwide snack favourite.
Mexican Chilli Fries (Papas a la Francesa)
Crispy fries topped with chilli sauce, soured cream, cheese and chamoy, Mexican style.
Banderilla (Battered Sausage on a Stick)
Battered fried sausage on a stick with sauces, a Mexican street classic.
Cheese-Stuffed Chipotle Chillies
Adobo chipotles stuffed with cheese, egg-battered and fried.
Enjoyed this?
Follow on TikTok for Mexican recipe & restaurant videos, and get updates by email.