A Beginner's Guide to Mole: Mexico's Most Complex Sauce

What Exactly Is Mole?

Mole (pronounced MOH-leh) is arguably Mexico's greatest culinary achievement. It is a rich, complex sauce that can contain anywhere from 15 to 35 different ingredients, layered together through a painstaking process of toasting, grinding and simmering. The word comes from the Nahuatl molli, meaning "sauce" or "concoction."

For many British people, mole begins and ends with "that chocolate chicken sauce." But this barely scratches the surface. Mole is an entire family of sauces, each with its own character, regional identity and cultural significance. It is the sauce served at weddings, funerals, baptisms and the most important celebrations in Mexican life.

The Seven Classic Moles of Oaxaca

The state of Oaxaca is known as "the land of seven moles," and these seven varieties represent the full spectrum of what mole can be:

1. Mole Negro (Black Mole)

The king of moles. Dark as midnight, with an extraordinary complexity that balances bitterness, sweetness, smoke and heat. It typically contains mulato and pasilla chillies, chocolate, plantain, dried fruits, spices and sometimes charred tortillas for colour. A proper mole negro can take two days to prepare.

2. Mole Rojo (Red Mole)

Built on ancho and guajillo chillies, mole rojo is slightly simpler than negro but still wonderfully complex. It has a rich, warm colour and flavours of dried fruit, warm spices and a gentle heat.

3. Mole Coloradito (Little Red Mole)

A gentler, sweeter cousin of mole rojo. The name refers to its slightly lighter red colour. It uses ancho chillies, tomatoes and chocolate, but the overall effect is milder and slightly sweeter.

4. Mole Amarillo (Yellow Mole)

A lighter, brighter mole made with chilhuacle amarillo chillies (which give it its golden colour), tomatillos and hierba santa. It is thinner than the dark moles and often served with chicken, pork or vegetables.

5. Mole Verde (Green Mole)

Made with fresh green herbs, tomatillos, jalapeños and pumpkin seeds. It is the freshest, most herbaceous of the moles and the quickest to prepare. The bright green colour comes from herbs like epazote, hoja santa and parsley.

6. Mole Chichilo

A smoky, dark mole made with charred chillies and thickened with masa (corn dough). It has an almost ashy, intensely smoky character that sets it apart from mole negro.

7. Mole Manchamanteles (Tablecloth Stainer)

Named for its tendency to stain everything it touches, this fruity mole combines chillies with pineapple, plantain, apple and other fruits. It is sweet, tangy and unlike any other sauce you have tasted.

Beyond Oaxaca: Other Famous Moles

Mole Poblano

Arguably the most famous mole internationally, mole poblano hails from the city of Puebla. It is the mole that most people picture when they hear the word: dark, rich, complex and yes, it does contain chocolate, though the chocolate is a background note rather than the dominant flavour. It is traditionally served over turkey for special occasions.

Pipian (Pumpkin Seed Mole)

A creamy, nutty mole thickened primarily with ground pumpkin seeds. It can be green (with tomatillos and green chillies) or red (with dried chillies and tomatoes). It is one of the more accessible moles for home cooks.

The Core Technique: How Mole Is Built

Despite their differences, all moles share a fundamental technique:

1. Toast dried chillies in a dry pan until fragrant, then rehydrate in hot water.
2. Toast seeds and nuts (pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, peanuts, almonds) in a dry pan until golden.
3. Toast spices (cinnamon, cloves, cumin, black peppercorns, coriander seeds) briefly.
4. Char aromatics (onion, garlic, tomatoes, tomatillos) directly over a flame or in a dry pan.
5. Fry extras (raisins, plantain, bread, tortillas) in a little oil or lard.
6. Blend everything with the chilli soaking liquid into a smooth paste.
7. Fry the paste in hot oil, stirring constantly, until it darkens and the flavours concentrate.
8. Add stock and simmer for at least 30 minutes, adjusting seasoning and consistency.

The process is labour-intensive but deeply satisfying. Each ingredient is treated individually before being united in the final blend.

A Simplified Mole Rojo for UK Kitchens

This recipe strips mole down to its essentials whilst maintaining an authentic flavour profile. All ingredients are available from UK supermarkets and online retailers.

Ingredients

• 4 dried ancho chillies (from specialist shops or online)
• 2 dried guajillo chillies (from specialist shops or online)
• 1 chipotle in adobo (from a tin, available at Tesco and Sainsbury's)
• 1 medium onion, quartered
• 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 2 tomatoes, halved
• 50g raisins
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds
• 30g blanched almonds
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 3 cloves
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 30g dark chocolate (70%), roughly chopped
• 500ml chicken stock
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil or lard
• Salt and sugar to taste

Method

1. Remove seeds and veins from the dried chillies. Toast in a dry frying pan for 30 seconds per side. Soak in hot water for 20 minutes.
2. In the same dry pan, char the onion quarters, garlic cloves and tomato halves until blackened in spots (5-7 minutes). Peel the garlic.
3. Toast the sesame seeds and almonds in the dry pan until golden (2-3 minutes).
4. Briefly toast the cinnamon stick, cloves and cumin (1 minute).
5. Blend the rehydrated chillies with the charred vegetables, chipotle, raisins, sesame seeds, almonds, spices and about 250ml of the chilli soaking water. Blend until very smooth.
6. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Pour in the mole paste (it will splutter) and fry, stirring constantly, for 5-7 minutes until it darkens and thickens.
7. Add the chicken stock and chocolate. Stir until the chocolate melts. Simmer for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
8. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar to balance the bitterness.

Serving and Storing Mole

Traditionally, mole is served over poached or roasted chicken or turkey, accompanied by rice and warm tortillas. It also works beautifully with roasted vegetables, pork or even stirred through pasta.

Mole actually improves with time. Make it a day ahead and reheat gently. It freezes brilliantly in portions and will keep for up to 3 months in the freezer.

Where to Try Authentic Mole in the UK

Several Mexican restaurants in the UK serve house-made moles. Look for establishments that specify their mole is made from scratch rather than from a commercial paste. A good mole takes hours of preparation, so restaurants that invest the time are worth seeking out.

For the ingredients to make your own, check our directory of Mexican shops in the UK and explore our recipe collection for more authentic Mexican dishes to master at home.