Carnitas Michoacanas: Secrets to Perfect Pork

Carnitas are, along with tacos al pastor and barbacoa, one of the three great pillars of the Mexican taco. But while al pastor has its roots in Lebanese immigration and barbacoa in the centre of the country, carnitas are 100% michoacanas: they were born in the state of Michoacán and there they are still made in the most spectacular way in the world, in enormous copper cazos full of bubbling lard.

In this article we are going to unpack the secrets of authentic carnitas michoacanas, explain the science behind their unique technique and give you a recipe adapted to make them at home in Spain with results that will leave you open-mouthed.

What are carnitas?

Carnitas are pork confit in its own lard. The concept is similar to French duck confit, but taken to another scale: in Michoacán, whole pieces of pork (leg, rib, loin, stomach, skin) are submerged in boiling lard for 2 to 3 hours, until the meat is tender inside with golden, crisp edges outside.

The result is meat with a texture impossible to replicate with other methods: juicy, unctuous, with layers of flavour ranging from sweet to savoury, and with those crisp pieces ("golden bits") that every Mexican fights for when the butcher chops the carnitas on the wooden board.

History and origin

Carnitas have their epicentre in the town of Quiroga, Michoacán, on the shore of Lake Pátzcuaro. Local legend attributes the invention to the Purépecha cooks of the region, who adopted the Spanish technique of frying in lard and applied it in their own way. Quiroga proclaims itself the "World Capital of the Carnita" and holds an annual fair dedicated to the dish.

The technique of confiting meat in fat makes practical sense in a climate where refrigeration was impossible: meat submerged in lard keeps for days. What began as a method of preservation became a culinary art.

The copper cazos

A distinctive element of carnitas michoacanas is the enormous copper cazos in which they are made. Copper is not just tradition: it is an excellent conductor of heat, distributing it evenly and allowing precise temperature control. The cazos are made by hand in Santa Clara del Cobre, another Michoacán town famous for its copperwork. A professional carnitas cazo can measure more than a metre in diameter.

The pork cuts for carnitas

In authentic carnitas, not just one cut is used: practically the whole pig is cooked, and each part has its characteristic texture and flavour:

• Maciza: The leg and loin. Lean, soft meat, the most popular option and the "safest" for someone trying carnitas for the first time.
• Costilla: On the bone, tastier than maciza. The fat between the bones melts and adds extra juiciness.
• Buche: The pig's stomach. Gelatinous-crisp texture, intense flavour. It is an acquired taste but aficionados consider it the best part.
• Cuerito: The pig's skin, cut into strips. It is fried until crisp outside and gelatinous inside. Addictive.
• Nana: The pig's uterus. Texture similar to buche. Very popular in Michoacán, less known elsewhere.
• Surtida: The mix of everything. It is what the one who knows asks for: a bit of each cut in the same taco.

In Spain, the most practical option is to use a combination of pork shoulder and belly. The shoulder provides the tender meat and the belly the fat and the crisp edges.

The technique: confit in lard

The traditional technique is conceptually simple but requires experience:

Phase 1: Gentle cooking (boiling)

The meat is placed in the cazo with lard, water, salt, garlic and herbs. The mixture is brought to the boil. In this phase, the meat essentially boils in a mixture of water and lard. The water gradually evaporates over 1.5 to 2 hours.

Phase 2: Confit (frying)

When all the water has evaporated, the temperature rises dramatically (from 100°C to 150 to 180°C) and the meat begins to fry in the pure lard. It is in this phase that the golden outer crust forms. This transition is the critical moment: if not watched, the meat burns. Expert butchers detect the change by the sound of the bubbling, which goes from a gentle simmer to an intense crackle.

The secret flavouring: Coca-Cola

Yes, you read that right. Many Michoacán butchers add Coca-Cola (or Pepsi, or orange soda) to the cazo during cooking. The sugar caramelises and adds golden colour and a touch of sweetness that balances the fat. It is not compulsory, but it is an open secret in Michoacán markets. Evaporated milk is another "secret" ingredient that some add to soften the meat.

Carnitas recipe adapted for Spain

Ingredients (for 8 to 10 people)

• 2kg pork shoulder (with some fat), cut into 5 to 6cm pieces
• 500g pork belly, cut into similar pieces
• 500g lard (found at butchers and some supermarkets)
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup Coca-Cola or orange soda (optional but recommended)
• 1 whole orange, quartered
• 1 onion, quartered
• 6 cloves garlic, whole
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon whole cumin
• 1 tablespoon salt (adjust to taste)
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 cinnamon stick (5cm)

Step-by-step method

1. Prepare the meat: Season all the meat generously with salt. If you have time, leave it uncovered in the fridge overnight so the surface dries out - this improves the final browning.

2. Melt the lard: In a large, heavy pot (cast iron ideal, but any thick pot works), melt the lard over medium heat. It does not have to be an industrial amount: 500g is enough because the meat will release its own fat during cooking.

3. Add the meat and liquids: Place all the meat in the melted lard. Add the water, the Coca-Cola (if using), the orange, onion, garlic, bay leaves, cumin, pepper and cinnamon. The liquid will not cover the meat completely - that is fine, you will be turning it.

4. Boiling phase (1.5 to 2 hours): Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Cook uncovered, turning the meat occasionally. The water and soda will gradually evaporate. You will see that the bubbling is gentle and constant.

5. Confit phase (30 to 45 minutes): When you notice the liquid has evaporated and the meat begins to fry (a change in the sound of the bubbling), lower the heat to medium-low. Watch constantly, turning the pieces so they brown evenly. The orange will have fallen apart - perfect, its juice has caramelised.

6. Perfect point: The carnitas are ready when the meat falls apart easily with a fork and has golden, crisp edges. Remove from the heat and rest for 10 minutes.

7. Chop and serve: Traditionally, carnitas are chopped with a knife on a wooden board, mixing tender pieces with crisp bits. Serve in hot corn tortillas with chopped onion, fresh coriander, green salsa and a squeeze of lime.

Essential accompaniments

Carnitas are served with:

• Corn tortillas: Hot and soft. In Spain, you can find them in Mexican shops or make them from scratch.
• Raw green salsa: Tomatillo, serrano chilli, coriander, onion and lime. It is the perfect complement: its acidity cuts the fat of the carnitas.
• Guacamole: Ripe avocado, lime, coriander, onion, chilli and salt.
• Refried beans: As a side, some good refried beans complete the experience.
• Pickled onion: Red onion in vinegar with oregano. It adds acidity and freshness.

Common mistakes when making carnitas

• Using meat that is too lean: Carnitas need fat. Without fat there is no flavour or crisp texture. Use well-marbled cuts.
• Covering the pot: If you cover the pot, the water will not evaporate and you will never reach the confit phase. Carnitas are always cooked uncovered.
• Heat too high in the confit phase: The meat burns outside and stays raw inside. Patience.
• Not turning the meat: If you do not turn it, one side burns while the other stays soft. Turn every 15 to 20 minutes.
• Throwing away the lard: The lard in which the carnitas were cooked is liquid gold. Strain it and keep it in the fridge: it is great for frying beans, making tamales or cooking rice with an incredible flavour.

Carnitas in Spain's Mexican restaurants

Finding good carnitas in Spain is a challenge, but not impossible. Some Mexican restaurants in Madrid and Barcelona make carnitas at weekends as a special. Look for those that specify "carnitas michoacanas" on their menu - it is a sign that they know the difference between truly confit carnitas and simply stewed pork.

If you visit one, order the "surtida": the mix of all the cuts. It is the way to eat carnitas like a true-blue Michoacán native. And do not forget to squeeze lime generously: the acid of the lime is not decoration, it is the essential counterpoint that balances the richness of the confit meat.

Explore more Mexican recipes on our site and learn how to prepare the perfect accompaniments for your homemade carnitas.