Chiles rellenos: beyond the classic cheese version

When you think of chiles rellenos, you probably picture a battered poblano chilli with melted cheese inside, bathed in tomato sauce. And yes, that is the classic - and it is glorious. But chiles rellenos in Mexico are a far broader and more diverse universe than most people imagine. There are stuffed chillies filled with picadillo, seafood, beans, herbed goat's cheese, rice, chicken in mole. There are poblano, jalapeño, ancho, chipotle and even habanero chillies stuffed. And the salsas that bathe them range from the classic tomato to mole, sweetcorn cream or nogada.

In this article we explore the most delicious variations of Mexican chiles rellenos, with detailed techniques and adaptations for making them in the UK.

The base technique: roast, peel and devein

Regardless of the filling, the process of preparing the chilli is the same and it is essential to master it:

1. Roast: Place the chillies directly over the gas flame (or under the oven grill at maximum power). Turn with tongs every 30-60 seconds until all the skin is black and blistered. Do not be afraid of burning them - the skin will come off.
2. Steam: Put the roasted chillies straight into a sealed plastic bag or a bowl covered with cling film. Leave to rest for 10-15 minutes. The steam loosens the skin.
3. Peel: Rub the burnt skin off with your fingers under a gentle stream of water. It will come away easily. Do not worry if small black bits remain - they add a smoky flavour.
4. Devein: Make a lengthwise incision without reaching the ends. Carefully remove the seeds and the white veins inside. The chilli should be like a pocket open on one side.
5. Stuff: Insert your chosen filling without overloading - the chilli must be able to close.

In the UK: The poblano chilli is substituted with a large green Romano (Italian) pepper. It is not identical - the poblano has a hint of heat - but the texture and size are perfect. If you want some heat, add a chopped green chilli to the filling.

1. Cheese-stuffed chilli (the classic)

The most popular across the whole of Mexico. The filling is simply a good melting cheese: Oaxaca cheese in Mexico (like string cheese), mozzarella or a mild semi-cured cheese in the UK.

Making the batter: Separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whisk the whites to firm peaks. Fold in the yolks one at a time, mixing gently. Lightly flour each stuffed chilli, dip it in the batter and fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on kitchen paper.

The tomato sauce: Roast 4 tomatoes, 1/4 onion and 2 garlic cloves. Blend. Fry the sauce in a pan with a little oil until it darkens and thickens (5-7 minutes). Season with salt and a pinch of sugar. Bathe the battered chillies with this sauce and serve immediately.

2. Picadillo-stuffed chilli

The picadillo for stuffed chillies is different from the one for chiles en nogada - it is simpler and savoury, without fruit:

• 400g of minced beef
• 1 cooked potato cut into small cubes
• 1 cooked carrot, chopped
• 2 chopped tomatoes
• 1/4 chopped onion
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon of cumin
• Salt and pepper

Soften the onion and garlic, add the meat, then the tomato and spices. When the meat is cooked, stir in the potato and carrot. Cook for a further 10 minutes. Stuff the chillies and proceed with the batter.

3. Seafood-stuffed chilli

An elegant variant from the coasts of Veracruz and Sinaloa that surprises with its delicacy:

• 200g of prawns, chopped
• 200g of cooked octopus, chopped (or surimi as an economical alternative)
• 1 chopped tomato
• 1/4 chopped onion
• Fresh coriander
• Chopped serrano chilli (to taste)
• Lime juice

Sauté the seafood briefly with onion, tomato and chilli. Do not overcook - the prawns should stay juicy. Stuff the chillies and, instead of battering, serve these chillies roasted without batter, bathed in a creamy chipotle salsa (blend chipotles in adobo with sour cream).

4. Ancho chilli stuffed with beans and cheese

This is a different preparation because it uses dried chillies (not fresh). The ancho chillies are rehydrated briefly - not fully, so they keep their shape - and stuffed with refried beans and cheese.

Method: Toast the ancho chillies in a dry pan for 20 seconds per side. Soak them in hot water for ONLY 5 minutes (no more, or they fall apart). Drain and open them carefully. Stuff with a mix of refried black beans, crumbled cheese and a touch of epazote. You can fry them lightly in a pan or serve them as they are, bathed in cream and salsa verde.

5. Jalapeño stuffed with cream cheese

Stuffed jalapeños are popular as a nibble. They are made with fresh or pickled jalapeños, filled with cream cheese mixed with spices, and baked or served cold.

Quick method: Cut large jalapeños in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds. Mix cream cheese with a little grated Cheddar, garlic powder and chopped chives. Fill each half. For a crisp version: wrap each half in a strip of bacon and bake at 200°C for 15-20 minutes. It is the perfect nibble for a night of Mexican recipes.

6. Rice-stuffed chilli (vegetarian version)

For a completely vegetarian version that does not sacrifice flavour:

• Cooked rice mixed with black beans, sweetcorn kernels, chopped tomato, coriander and cumin
• Grated cheese (optional)

Stuff the chillies with the rice mixture. There is no need to batter them - place in an ovenproof dish, bathe with red or green salsa, cover with grated cheese and bake at 180°C for 20 minutes until the cheese melts and browns.

7. Stuffed chilli in tomato broth (northern style)

In northern Mexico, stuffed chillies are served in a tomato broth (caldillo) instead of a thick sauce. The chilli is battered and floats in the broth, making it more of a spoon dish than a fork one.

The broth: Blend 6 roasted tomatoes with onion and garlic. Strain and boil in a large pot with 2 cups of chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper. Submerge the battered chillies in the hot broth just before serving. It is comforting and perfect for winter.

The salsas: the perfect complement

Each type of stuffed chilli calls for its salsa:

• Red tomato sauce: The universal classic. Works with all of them.
• Tomatillo salsa verde: Perfect with cheese-stuffed chillies.
• Chipotle cream: Ideal with seafood or chicken fillings.
• Nogada: For chiles en nogada with sweet-and-savoury picadillo.
• Red mole: For special occasions, a cheese-stuffed chilli bathed in mole is spectacular.
• Tomato broth: For the northern version in broth.

Tips for perfect chiles rellenos

• Do not overstuff: The chilli must be able to close without forcing. If it opens during frying, the filling escapes and the oil spits.
• Dry well before battering: A wet chilli will not hold the batter. Dry it with kitchen paper.
• Batter at the last minute: The egg batter is made just before frying. It cannot be prepared in advance.
• Oil at the right temperature: 170-180°C. If it is too hot, the batter burns on the outside and stays raw inside. If it is too cold, the chilli absorbs too much oil.
• Drain well: Place the battered chillies on kitchen paper before bathing them in salsa.

Chiles rellenos are one of the great expressions of Mexican cooking, a dish that combines technique, flavour and tradition in every bite. Find more inspiration in our Mexican recipes and discover where to try them at Mexican restaurants in the UK. Try a different version this week!