Huitlacoche: what is it, history and why it is called Mexican truffle
What is it?
Huitlacoche (also spelt cuitlacoche) is an edible fungus —Ustilago maydis— that infects maize ears and forms large galls of greyish-blue or black colour. In Mexican cooking it is considered a pre-Hispanic delicacy and is known as "Mexican truffle" or "Aztec caviar" for its intense earthy, sweet and wild-mushroom flavour. It is harvested between July and September, during the rainy season, and is an iconic ingredient in quesadillas, soups, tamales and crêpes in fine Mexican cuisine.
Origin and history
Huitlacoche consumption is documented from pre-Hispanic times: the 16th-century Florentine Codex already describes it as a food prized by the Aztecs. Etymologically, its name comes from Nahuatl and is commonly translated as "sleeping excrescence" or "corn raven". Unlike most of the world, where it is considered a pest (corn smut) and eradicated from crops, in Mexico it has always been food. The US government even tried to import and cultivate it from the 1990s onwards once its gastronomic value was recognised, and today it is sold tinned for export.
Characteristic ingredients
Huitlacoche forms when the fungus Ustilago maydis infects young maize kernels and transforms them into tumescent galls full of spores. It is harvested before the galls mature, while they are still soft and moist, ideally 2 to 3 weeks after infection. Its flavour combines notes of mushroom, sweetcorn, wet earth and wood. It is typically cooked sautéed with onion, garlic, serrano or poblano chilli, and epazote, its classic aromatic companion. In quesadillas it is paired with Oaxaca cheese or fresh cheese.
Cultural significance
Huitlacoche represents the Mesoamerican worldview of using everything the milpa offers, even what other cultures would consider disease. It is a source of high-quality protein, contains lysine (an essential amino acid scarce in cereals), beta-glucans and bioactive compounds studied for their antioxidant and antitumour properties, according to research published in journals such as Nutrients and the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. Today it has moved from the popular market to international fine dining thanks to chefs like Enrique Olvera and Patricia Quintana, who have brought it to the tasting menu.
Related recipes
Now that you know what it is, try cooking it at home with our step-by-step recipes:
Ingredients to cook it
Find where to buy authentic ingredients in Mexican shops in the UK:
Frequently asked questions
- Is huitlacoche safe to eat?
- Yes, completely. Although it is a parasitic fungus of maize, it is not toxic to people or to the crop at consumption levels. It has been eaten in Mexico for centuries and the US FDA also permits it.
- What does huitlacoche taste like?
- It has a deep earthy flavour, similar to a mix between portobello mushroom, tender corn and black truffle. That is why it is called Mexican truffle in the gastronomic world.
- Where can I buy huitlacoche?
- Fresh in Mexican markets during the rainy season (July to September). Tinned or frozen it is available in Latin shops and some specialised supermarkets in Spain and the UK all year round.
- Why is it called sleeping excrescence?
- It is the literal translation from Nahuatl: cuitlatl (excrement or excrescence) and cochi (to sleep). It reflects how the fungus stays dormant in the soil until it infects maize.

