Northern Wheat Flour Gorditas

History & Origin

Northern wheat flour gorditas are one of the great emblems of northern Mexican cuisine, especially in the states of Chihuahua, Durango, Zacatecas and Sinaloa, where wheat displaced maize as the main cereal since the colonial era. This preference for wheat over maize is one of the most defining characteristics of northern cuisine and radically distinguishes the gastronomy of the north from that of central and southern Mexico. The introduction of wheat to northern Mexico was the work of Franciscan and Jesuit friars who established missions in the northwest in the 17th and 18th centuries, especially in the Sierra Tarahumara of Chihuahua and northern Sinaloa. The indigenous Rarámuri (Tarahumara) and other northern peoples adopted wheat into their crops, and wheat flour became the base ingredient for northern flour tortillas, gorditas and other regional breads. The flour gordita differs from the flour tortilla in its thickness and cooking technique: whilst the tortilla is thin and flexible, the gordita is thicker (1 to 1.5 cm) and is cooked on a comal over low heat until it puffs up and forms an interior air pocket, creating the perfect pouch for filling. This puffing is the sign that the gordita is well made and ready to split. The traditional fillings for northern gorditas are endless: refried beans with melted Chihuahua cheese, beef and potato picadillo, machaca with egg, rajas with soured cream, chorizo with potato, or simply butter and cheese. Every family has their favourite combination and secret tips for the dough. At markets and taquerías in the north, gorditas are prepared to order, split from the side with a knife or fingers and generously filled. They are breakfast, lunch and supper for millions of northerners, and represent better than any other snack the spirit of northern cuisine: simple, hearty and absolutely delicious.