Sautéed Wild Greens Tacos

History & Origin

Quelites is the collective name in Mexico for wild edible herbs that grow spontaneously in milpa fields, kitchen gardens and open land: quelites cenizos, quintoniles, purslane, lamb's quarters, chipilín and many more. These wild greens have sustained the indigenous peoples of Mexico for millennia, long before European crops arrived on the continent. They are an integral part of the diet of rural communities in central Mexico, especially in Oaxaca, Puebla, Hidalgo and the Valley of Mexico. Quintonil (Amaranthus hybridus), one of the most prized varieties, was a sacred food of the Aztecs, who cultivated amaranth not only for its seeds but also for its tender leaves. With the Spanish Conquest, many quelites fell out of favour, but in recent years they have experienced a remarkable renaissance thanks to the interest of chefs like Enrique Olvera and Elena Reygadas, who have placed them back at the centre of Mexican gastronomy. Sautéed wild greens tacos are the humblest and most delicious expression of this rediscovery: garlic, onion, dried chilli and lime transform these green leaves into a vibrant, nutritious and deeply Mexican taco filling.