Chileatole: what is it, history and recipe of the pre-Hispanic spicy atole

What is it?

Chileatole is a thick preparation made from maize masa, chilli and epazote, halfway between a drink and a stew. Its name comes from the Nahuatl chīlli (chilli) and ātōlli (atole), literally "atole with chilli". It is served hot in clay bowls and is typical of Puebla, Tlaxcala, Veracruz, Morelos and Oaxaca. It is one of the pre-Hispanic ritual foods best preserved in everyday Mexican cooking, especially during cold months and patron-saint festivals in the Highlands.

Origin and history

Chileatole has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: in its original version it was prepared by grinding cacao and mixing it with maize masa, chilli, vanilla and bee honey. Hernán Cortés mentioned it in his Letters of Relation after arriving at Moctezuma's court. The Spanish rejected the spicy version because of the chilli, and by removing the chilli and keeping the cacao what we know today as champurrado emerged. The savoury version with epazote and tender corn was preserved intact in the indigenous and mestizo kitchens of central Mexico, reaching the 21st century practically unchanged.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic ingredients of chileatole are: tender sweetcorn kernels, nixtamalised maize masa, fresh epazote, green chilli (jalapeño or serrano) or red chilli (guajillo, ancho), water and salt. In Puebla it is enriched with masa dumplings, creole pumpkin or radish. In Veracruz a chicken chileatole is common, with costeño chilli, chayote and potato. The Tlaxcala version often includes green broad beans. Epazote is indispensable: it provides the characteristic aniseed aroma and, according to traditional herbal medicine, aids in the digestion of maize.

Cultural significance

Chileatole is an emblem of milpa cooking: it integrates the three essential pre-Hispanic crops (maize, chilli and sometimes bean) into a single dish. It is served at festivities such as Candlemas, Day of the Dead and the mayordomías of central Mexico, and forms part of the Traditional Cuisines declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. In rural villages it is still prepared in clay pots over wood fire, and its consumption is linked to agricultural rites of thanksgiving for the tender corn harvest between July and September.

Frequently asked questions

Is chileatole sweet or savoury?

Traditional chileatole is savoury and spicy, with flavours of sweetcorn, chilli and epazote. A sweet version exists in some regions, but the classic recipe is savoury and served as a light stew or thick broth.

What is the difference between chileatole and champurrado?

Champurrado is the sweet colonial evolution of chileatole: it contains chocolate, piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar) and cinnamon. Chileatole preserves the pre-Hispanic recipe with chilli and epazote and is served savoury.

How is chileatole served?

Hot, in clay bowls, frequently accompanied by tlacoyos, tamales or freshly made tortillas. It is a common dish in markets and traditional breakfasts of central Mexico.

Which chilli is used for chileatole?

It depends on the region: in Puebla, green chilli (jalapeño or serrano) or poblano chilli; in Veracruz, costeño chilli; and in other areas guajillo or ancho. The choice defines whether the chileatole is green or red.