Memelas de Frijol y Queso (Oval Masa Cakes with Beans and Cheese)

History & Origin

Memelas are one of the most ancient antojitos of central and southern Mexico, with roots tracing back to the pre-Hispanic Zapotec and Mixtec civilisations of Oaxaca. Their name derives from the Nahuatl word 'memelatzin', describing their characteristic flat, oval shape. Unlike the tlacoyos from the northern Valley of Mexico, Oaxacan memelas are known for their thinner dough, more elongated form, and the use of local cheese - typically quesillo (Oaxaca string cheese) or regional fresh cheese. Historically, memelas were the everyday food of Zapotec farmers working the milpa fields, as they are nutritious, economical and easy to carry. At the markets of Oaxaca, including the Mercado Benito Juárez and the tianguis of the central valleys, memelas are prepared to order on large black clay comales and served with black chilli salsa, shredded tasajo beef or toasted grasshoppers. In the Valley of Mexico, particularly in Milpa Alta and Xochimilco, a local version also exists known simply as 'memelas', made with ayocote or black beans and eaten for breakfast or as an afternoon snack. The technique of kneading and shaping memelas forms part of the culinary knowledge passed from mothers to daughters in indigenous Oaxacan families since time immemorial.