Minilla de Pescado (Veracruz Shredded Fish)

History & Origin

Minilla is one of the most elegant and flavourful preparations in Veracruz cuisine, a stew that perfectly summarises the culinary identity of the port of Veracruz: the fusion between seafood from the Gulf of Mexico and the techniques and ingredients that arrived from Europe and the Caribbean during three centuries of the Viceroyalty. The term 'minilla' appears to derive from 'menudillo' or 'migas', referring to the finely shredded or chopped fish that forms the base of the stew. The technique of shredding fish and cooking it with sofrito is of Spanish-Mediterranean origin, very similar to how salt cod is prepared a la vizcaína or Basque piperradas in Spain. However, Veracruzans adapted it with local produce: tomato instead of red pepper, jalapeño chillies instead of Padrón peppers, and added the ingredients that Spanish and Portuguese ships unloaded in port: Seville olives, Sicilian capers and Málaga raisins. This combination of Mediterranean ingredients with Gulf of Mexico produce is what defines the Veracruz style in fish cookery, which includes such famous dishes as huachinango a la veracruzana and arroz a la tumbada. Minilla follows the same culinary code: tomato acidity, the saltiness of olives and capers, the softness of fish and moderate chilli heat. Traditionally used to fill pickled or fresh jalapeño chillies, for tacos in corn tortillas, or as a filling for baked empanadas. In the markets of Veracruz, Coatzacoalcos and Xalapa it is sold as a ready-to-go stew. It can also be served on tostadas with avocado as a snack, or mixed with rice as a one-dish meal. The most suitable fish for minilla is any firm-fleshed, mild variety: red snapper, sea bass, kingfish or amberjack, which when shredded do not fall into overly fine strands but maintain a pleasant texture.