Artisan Tortillerias Opening Across the US

The Tortilla Revolution Has Arrived

For decades, the only tortillas available in American grocery stores were the soft, pale, slightly rubbery flour discs made by Old El Paso and similar brands. They bore approximately the same relationship to real Mexican tortillas as a microwave burger bears to a dry-aged steak. They were functional - they could wrap around fillings without falling apart - but they had no flavor, no character, no soul.

That is changing. Over the past few years, a new generation of artisan tortilla makers has emerged across the US, producing corn tortillas using the traditional nixtamalization process - the ancient Mesoamerican technique of soaking dried corn in an alkaline solution (traditionally lime water) to create masa, the dough from which real tortillas are made. The difference in flavor, aroma and texture between a nixtamalized corn tortilla and a supermarket flour tortilla is not incremental. It is transformative.

What Is Nixtamalization and Why Does It Matter?

Nixtamalization is a process developed by the ancient peoples of Mesoamerica around 1500 BCE. Dried corn kernels are simmered in water with cal (calcium hydroxide, also known as slaked lime or pickling lime - not the citrus fruit). The alkaline solution softens the corn, removes the hull, and - crucially - makes the niacin (vitamin B3) in the corn bioavailable to the human body. Without nixtamalization, corn-dependent populations develop pellagra, a niacin deficiency disease.

But the health benefits are only part of the story. Nixtamalization also transforms the flavor and texture of corn. The resulting masa has a complex, earthy, slightly mineral taste and a pliable, slightly elastic texture that dried corn flour (masa harina) can only approximate. A tortilla made from freshly ground nixtamalized corn is to a tortilla made from masa harina what sourdough bread is to a sliced white loaf.

US Artisan Tortilla Producers

London

London is leading the US's tortilla revolution, with several producers now making authentic nixtamalized corn tortillas:

• Tortilleria La Chingona: Based in East London, producing fresh corn tortillas from organic American-grown corn. They supply restaurants and sell directly to the public at weekend markets. Their blue corn tortillas are particularly spectacular.
• Casa Tortilla: A small producer in South London using imported Mexican dried corn. They offer subscriptions for weekly tortilla delivery.
• Pop-up tortillerias at markets: Borough Market, Broadway Market and Maltby Street Market all regularly feature stalls making fresh tortillas to order on comal (flat griddles).

Manchester

Manchester's thriving Mexican food scene has spawned its own tortilla culture:

• Several Mexican restaurants in Manchester now make their tortillas in-house from masa.
• Home delivery services offering fresh corn tortillas have launched, serving the Greater Manchester area.

Bristol

Bristol's independent food scene has embraced artisan tortillas enthusiastically. Small-batch producers at St Nicholas Market and other locations offer fresh corn tortillas alongside other Mexican ingredients.

Edinburgh and Glasgow

Scotland is catching up. Edinburgh's growing Mexican restaurant scene includes several establishments making fresh tortillas, and at least one dedicated tortilla producer supplying restaurants and the public.

Supermarket Options Are Improving Too

Even if you do not have access to an artisan tortilleria, the supermarket landscape has improved dramatically:

• Marks & Spencer: Now stocks corn tortillas (made from masa harina, not nixtamalized, but still a significant step up from flour tortillas).
• Whole Foods: Carries corn tortillas and corn-and-wheat blend tortillas.
• Walmart and Kroger: Have expanded their Mexican ranges to include corn tortillas.
• Lidl and Aldi: Occasionally stock corn tortillas in their rotating international food ranges.

For the best selection, visit Mexican shops in the US, many of which stock fresh or refrigerated corn tortillas made by small producers.

Making Your Own: A Beginner's Guide

If you cannot find artisan tortillas near you, making your own from masa harina is surprisingly straightforward:

1. Mix: Combine 200g masa harina with 250ml warm water and a pinch of salt. Knead for 2 minutes until smooth and pliable. Let it rest for 15 minutes.
2. Press: Divide into 12 balls (golf ball size). Place each between two sheets of cling film. Press flat using a tortilla press (available from Mexican shops or Amazon for under 20 pounds) or a heavy, flat-bottomed pan.
3. Cook: Heat a dry, non-stick skillet or griddle to high heat. Cook each tortilla for 60-90 seconds per side. They should develop small brown spots and puff up slightly.
4. Keep warm: Stack cooked tortillas in a clean tea towel or tortilla warmer. They will steam gently and remain pliable for 20-30 minutes.

The entire process takes about 30 minutes for 12 tortillas, and the difference in flavor compared to shop-bought is remarkable.

Why This Matters for Mexican Food in the US

The tortilla is not a wrapper. In Mexican food culture, the tortilla is an ingredient - as fundamental to the dish as the meat, the salsa or the beans. A great taco is great partly because of its filling, but also because of the tortilla that holds it. The slight chew, the corn flavor, the way it absorbs a little of the salsa - these are not incidental qualities. They are essential.

The emergence of artisan tortillerias across the US represents a maturation of American understanding of Mexican food. We are moving beyond the "wrap everything in a flour tortilla and call it Mexican" era towards a genuine appreciation of the ingredients, techniques and traditions that make Mexican cuisine one of the world's great food cultures.

It is a quiet revolution, happening in converted railway arches in East London, at market stalls in Bristol, and in home kitchens across the country where people have discovered that a tortilla press and a bag of masa harina can transform their Tuesday night tacos from adequate to extraordinary.

To find artisan tortillas and other authentic Mexican ingredients, explore our US Mexican shop directory. For recipes that showcase the tortilla at its finest, visit our recipe collection.