Sesame: essential seed of mole and Mexican cuisine

What is it?

Ajonjolí is the seed of the plant Sesamum indicum, native to Africa and introduced to Mexico in the 16th century during the colonial period. Although not a pre-Hispanic crop, it became so deeply integrated into Mexican cuisine that today it is an indispensable ingredient of mole poblano, of Oaxacan black mole, of chiles en nogada and of traditional breads such as the cocol. It is distinguished by its small, flat, oval seeds, white, golden or black in colour, and by its delicate, sweet, toasted-nut flavour. Mexico is one of the world's leading producers, with crops in Sinaloa, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Michoacán and Chiapas. Its name comes from the Arabic al-yulyulán, which entered Spanish through contact with Andalusian cuisine, evidencing the Mediterranean-African origin of the term and its incorporation into Castilian before reaching the New World.

Origin and history

Sesame was domesticated in sub-Saharan Africa at least 4,000 years ago, according to archaeobotanical evidence published by Daniel Zohary in Domestication of Plants in the Old World. The Phoenicians and Arabs spread it through the Mediterranean, and the Spaniards brought it to New Spain in the 16th century. The legend of mole poblano, according to historian Pablo Serrano Álvarez, places the incorporation of sesame into Mexican cuisine in the viceregal convents of the 17th century, where it was mixed with pre-Hispanic cacao and chillies to create this emblematic sauce. Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido agree that Mexican sesame grown in Sinaloa and Guerrero gained international renown in the 20th century due to its high oil content and superior flavour. SADER reports that Mexico exports seed and oil to the United States, Asia and Europe, positioning itself among the world's five largest producers, with Sinaloa concentrating more than 60% of national cultivation under the rain-fed system.

Characteristic ingredients

Sesamum indicum is an annual plant of up to 1.5 m, with white or pink flowers and elongated capsules that release the seeds when ripe. Mexican sesame is grown in white, golden and black varieties; each with distinct aromatic profiles. The white is the most used in baking and mole, the golden predominates in Asian pâtisserie and industrial breads, and the black (grown in lesser proportion in Chiapas) has a more intense, earthy flavour and a high content of antioxidants. Traditionally it is toasted on a comal over low heat to release its aromatic oils, and then ground or used whole. It provides between 18 and 25% protein and 50% unsaturated fats, as well as calcium, magnesium, copper and antioxidants such as sesamin. It is used in mole poblano and black mole, garnachas, chilatole, sweets such as sesame palanquetas, breads such as the cocol and toasted sesame, and as a topping for ringed Reyes breads and regional pan de muerto.

Cultural significance

Sesame is an example of culinary mestizaje: a foreign ingredient fully integrated into Mexican heritage. It is part of the Traditional Mexican Cuisine dossier inscribed by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage, especially in its role within the seven Oaxacan moles and mole poblano declared cultural heritage of Puebla. Agricultural production sustains more than 30,000 families in Sinaloa and Guerrero, according to SADER, and is one of the key products for the Mexican Pacific's agricultural foreign trade. Festivals such as the Mole Fair in San Pedro Atocpan (Mexico City) and the Oaxacan mole contests celebrate its use. Research at the National Institute of Forestry, Agricultural and Livestock Research (INIFAP) has developed drought-resistant varieties such as Sinaloa-85 and Ranchero, improving profitability. Contemporary cuisine uses Mexican sesame as a premium garnish in haute cuisine restaurants, comparable to Japanese organic sesame.

Frequently asked questions

What does sesame taste like?

Sesame has a delicate, sweet flavour of toasted nut, with notes of butter and a subtle bitter background. When toasted on a comal it releases aromatic oils that enhance its umami and provide a pleasant crunch. Black sesame is more intense and earthy, with an aftertaste similar to toasted coffee, while white is softer and more versatile.

What is the difference between ajonjolí and sésamo?

They are the same seed: ajonjolí is the term used in Mexico and Latin America, while sésamo (sesame) is the common name in Europe, Asia and international cuisine. Both come from Sesamum indicum. In Mexico there are white, golden and black varieties, all edible and with subtly distinct aromatic profiles according to their processing.

How is sesame used in Mexican cuisine?

It is used toasted and ground as an ingredient in mole poblano, black mole and Oaxacan red mole. It also appears on chiles en nogada as a garnish, in breads such as the cocol, rosca de Reyes and pan de muerto, in sweets such as sesame palanquetas and as a topping for garnachas, tlacoyos and memelas in traditional markets.

Where does sesame come from?

It is native to sub-Saharan Africa, where it was domesticated more than 4,000 years ago. It arrived in Mexico in the 16th century with the Spaniards and was integrated into mole and Mexican pâtisserie. Today it is mainly grown in Sinaloa, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Michoacán and Chiapas, and Mexico is among the world's five largest producers.