Sesame (ajonjolí): what it is, taste and uses in Mexican food

What is it?

Ajonjolí (sesame) is the seed of the plant Sesamum indicum, native to Africa and introduced to Mexico in the 16th century during the colonial period. Despite not being a pre-Hispanic crop, it became so deeply integrated into Mexican cooking that today it is an indispensable ingredient of mole poblano, Oaxacan black mole, chiles en nogada and traditional breads such as the cocol. It is distinguished by its small, flat, oval seeds, white, golden or black in colour, and by its delicate, sweet, toasted-nut flavour. Mexico is one of the world's leading producers, with crops in Sinaloa, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Michoacán and Chiapas. Its name comes from the Arabic al-yulyulán, which entered Spanish through contact with Andalusian cooking, evidencing the Mediterranean-African origin of the term and its incorporation into Castilian before reaching the New World.

Origin and history

Sesame was domesticated in sub-Saharan Africa at least 4,000 years ago, according to archaeobotanical evidence published by Daniel Zohary in Domestication of Plants in the Old World. The Phoenicians and Arabs spread it across the Mediterranean, and the Spanish brought it to New Spain in the 16th century. The legend of mole poblano, according to the historian Pablo Serrano Álvarez, places the incorporation of sesame into Mexican cooking in the viceregal convents of the 17th century, where it was mixed with cacao and pre-Hispanic chillies to create this emblematic salsa. Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido agree that Mexican sesame grown in Sinaloa and Guerrero gained international renown in the 20th century for its high oil content and superior flavour. SADER reports that Mexico exports seed and oil to the United States, Asia and Europe, positioning itself among the five largest world producers, with Sinaloa accounting for more than 60% of national cultivation under the rain-fed system.

Characteristic ingredients

Sesamum indicum is an annual plant up to 1.5 m tall, with white or pink flowers and elongated capsules that release the seeds on ripening. Mexican sesame is grown in white, golden and black varieties, each with distinct aromatic profiles. The white is the most used in baking and mole, the golden predominates in oriental confectionery and industrial breads, and the black (grown in smaller proportion in Chiapas) has a more intense, earthy flavour and a high antioxidant content. Traditionally it is toasted on a comal over low heat to release its aromatic oils, and then ground or used whole. It provides between 18 and 25% protein and 50% unsaturated fats, as well as calcium, magnesium, copper and antioxidants such as sesamin. It is used in mole poblano and black mole, garnachas, chilatole, sweets such as sesame palanquetas, breads such as the cocol and toasted sesame, and as a topping for roscas de Reyes and regional pan de muerto.

Cultural significance

Sesame is an example of culinary fusion: a foreign ingredient fully integrated into Mexican heritage. It forms part of the dossier of Traditional Mexican Cuisine inscribed by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage, especially in its role within the seven Oaxacan moles and mole poblano, declared cultural heritage of Puebla. Agricultural production sustains more than 30,000 families in Sinaloa and Guerrero, according to SADER, and is one of the key products for the agricultural foreign trade of the Mexican Pacific. Festivals such as the Mole Fair in San Pedro Atocpan (Mexico City) and the Oaxacan mole competitions celebrate its use. Research by the National Institute of Forestry, Agricultural and Livestock Research (INIFAP) has developed drought-resistant varieties such as Sinaloa-85 and Ranchero, improving profitability. Contemporary cooking uses Mexican sesame as a premium decoration in fine-dining restaurants, comparable to organic Japanese sesame.

Frequently asked questions

What does sesame taste like?

Sesame has a delicate, sweet, toasted-nut flavour, with buttery notes and a subtle bitter base. When toasted on a comal it releases aromatic oils that enhance its umami and provide a pleasant crunch. Black sesame is more intense and earthy, with an aftertaste similar to roasted coffee, while the white is milder and more versatile.

What is the difference between ajonjolí and sesame?

They are the same seed: ajonjolí is the term used in Mexico and Latin America, while sesame is the common name in Europe, Asia and international cooking. Both come from Sesamum indicum. In Mexico there are white, golden and black varieties, all edible and with subtly different aromatic profiles according to their processing.

How is sesame used in Mexican cooking?

It is used toasted and ground as an ingredient of mole poblano, black mole and Oaxacan red mole. It also appears on chiles en nogada as a decoration, in breads such as the cocol, rosca de Reyes and pan de muerto, in sweets such as sesame palanquetas, and as a topping for garnachas, tlacoyos and memelas in traditional markets.

Where does sesame come from?

It is native to sub-Saharan Africa, where it was domesticated more than 4,000 years ago. It arrived in Mexico in the 16th century with the Spanish and became part of mole and Mexican confectionery. Today it is grown mainly in Sinaloa, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Michoacán and Chiapas, and Mexico ranks among the five largest world producers.