Alaches: what they are, benefits and how to cook them

What is it?

Alaches, also spelled alachis or alachi, are a mucilaginous quelite of tender leaves belonging to the species Anoda cristata, a plant of the Malvaceae family native to Mesoamerica. They are consumed mainly in the State of Mexico, Morelos, Puebla, Tlaxcala and central Mexico, where they grow wild during the rainy season among crops of maize, bean and squash. Their slightly slippery-mucilaginous texture, similar to that of nopal or okra, is what defines this quelite: when cooked, the leaves release a thickening substance that gives body to broths, soups and peasant stews. Of mild, herbaceous flavour, alaches are one of the most prized quelites in rural cuisine and are found in local markets during the months of June to October.

Origin and history

Alaches form part of the Mesoamerican milpa agricultural system, where wild quelites grew and still grow among the main crops as usable spontaneous companions. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, in his Historia general de las cosas de Nueva España (1577), documented dozens of quelites consumed by the Nahua peoples, among them plants of the genus Anoda. The word quelite comes from the Nahuatl quilitl, meaning edible herb, and alache is one of the regional names preserved since pre-Hispanic times, possibly derived from the Nahuatl alaxic, in reference to its slippery consistency. The Florentine Codex and other colonial sources describe the use of mucilaginous quelites in soups and stews prepared by the Mexica cooks. CONABIO classifies them as one of the most common edible weeds of the maize fields of the central highlands. Their consumption has remained continuous for more than five centuries in rural communities, forming part of the peasant food heritage now reclaimed by traditional Mexican cuisine movements.

Characteristic ingredients

Anoda cristata is an annual herbaceous plant of the Malvaceae family, related to the mallow and cotton, that reaches between 30 and 90 centimetres in height. Its leaves are triangular or lobed, of a pale green colour and velvety texture; its flowers are small and lilac or mauve, which makes it identifiable in the maize fields. The edible parts are the tender leaves and young stems, harvested before flowering for better texture. When cooked, they release a natural mucilage that thickens broths without the need for flours. In the cuisine of the State of Mexico and Morelos, alache broths are prepared with maize masa, guajillo chilli, garlic and sometimes squash flower or pork rib. In Puebla and Tlaxcala they are stewed with epazote, tomato and onion, and served with freshly made tortillas. There are lesser-known regional variants such as Anoda acerifolia, also consumed as a quelite in some areas of the Bajío.

Cultural significance

Alaches are an emblem of the peasant cuisine of central Mexico and a symbol of the milpa as a sustainable agri-food system. They form part of the dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010 by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, within the category of milpa products and quelites. In the State of Mexico, alaches are associated with the rainy season and with the festivity of Assumption Day, when ritual broths are prepared in Nahua and Mazahua communities. Economically, their gathering remains a complementary activity for peasants who sell them fresh in markets such as those of Cuautla, Texcoco, Toluca or Tepoztlán. Research by CIESAS and the Centre for Biological Research of the North-West has highlighted the nutritional value of alaches, rich in fibre, calcium and vitamin A, and their importance for rural food security. Contemporary cuisine has revalued them in restaurants that promote Mexican quelites.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between alaches and other quelites?

Alaches are distinguished from other quelites by their mucilaginous texture when cooked, similar to that of nopal or okra, while quintoniles or cenizo quelites do not release mucilage. Botanically, alaches belong to the Malvaceae family (Anoda cristata) and quintoniles to Amaranthaceae. This texture makes them ideal for thickening broths without added flours.

What do alaches taste like?

Alaches have a mild, slightly sweet and vegetal herbal flavour, with an earthy undertone similar to that of tender spinach. They are neither bitter nor spicy. Their main culinary appeal is not the flavour but the mucilaginous texture they provide when cooked, giving body and smoothness to broths. They combine very well with maize masa, epazote and guajillo chilli.

How are alaches served?

Traditionally they are prepared in a broth with dissolved maize masa, guajillo chilli, garlic and onion, forming a thick soup served hot with tortillas. They are also stewed with tomato, epazote and onion as a garnish, added to pork rib stews or filled into tlacoyos along with bean. Their natural mucilage allows them to be used as a thickener in other rural preparations.

Where do alaches come from?

Alaches are native to Mesoamerica and grow wild in the maize fields of central Mexico. Their main areas of consumption are the State of Mexico, Morelos, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Mexico City. They sprout during the rainy season, between June and October, associated with the milpa system that the Nahua, Mazahua and Otomí peoples have maintained for centuries.