Alaches: a mucilaginous quelite from central Mexico

What is it?

Alaches, also written alachis or alachi, are a mucilaginous tender-leaf quelite belonging to the species Anoda cristata, a plant of the family Malvaceae native to Mesoamerica. They are mainly eaten in the State of Mexico, Morelos, Puebla, Tlaxcala and central Mexico, where they grow wild during the rainy season among the maize, bean and squash crops. Their slightly slimy-mucilaginous texture, similar to that of nopal or okra, is what defines this quelite: when cooked, the leaves release a thickening substance that gives body to peasant broths, soups and stews. With a mild and herbaceous flavour, alaches are one of the most appreciated quelites in rural cuisine and can be found at local markets from June to October.

Origin and history

Alaches form part of the Mesoamerican milpa agricultural system, where wild quelites grew, and grow, between the main crops as usable spontaneous companions. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun, in his Historia general de las cosas de Nueva Espana (1577), documented dozens of quelites consumed by Nahua peoples, including plants of the genus Anoda. The word quelite comes from the Nahuatl quilitl, meaning edible herb, and alache is one of the regional names preserved since pre-Hispanic times, possibly derived from the Nahuatl alaxic, in reference to its slippery consistency. The Florentine Codex and other colonial sources describe the use of mucilaginous quelites in soups and stews prepared by Mexica cooks. CONABIO classifies them as one of the most common edible weeds of the maize fields of the central highlands. Their consumption has been continuous for more than five centuries in rural communities, forming part of the peasant food heritage now championed by traditional Mexican cuisine movements.

Characteristic ingredients

Anoda cristata is an annual herbaceous plant of the family Malvaceae, related to the mallow and cotton, which reaches between 30 and 90 centimetres in height. Its leaves are triangular or lobed, of light green colour and velvety texture; its flowers are small and lilac or mauve in colour, which makes it identifiable in maize fields. The edible parts are the tender leaves and young stems, which are harvested before flowering to obtain the best texture. When cooked they release a natural mucilage that thickens broths without the need for flours. In the cuisine of the State of Mexico and Morelos alache broths are prepared with maize masa, chile guajillo, garlic and sometimes pumpkin flowers or pork rib. In Puebla and Tlaxcala they are stewed with epazote, tomato and onion, and served with freshly made tortillas. There are lesser-known regional variants such as Anoda acerifolia, also eaten as a quelite in some areas of the Bajio.

Cultural significance

Alaches are an emblem of the peasant cuisine of central Mexico and a symbol of the milpa as a sustainable food system. They form part of the dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010 by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, within the category of milpa products and quelites. In the State of Mexico, alaches are associated with the rainy season and with the Day of the Assumption, when ritual broths are prepared in Nahua and Mazahua communities. Economically, their gathering remains a complementary activity for peasant women and men who sell them fresh in markets such as Cuautla, Texcoco, Toluca or Tepoztlan. Research by CIESAS and the Centro de Investigaciones Biologicas del Noroeste has highlighted the nutritional value of alaches, rich in fibre, calcium and vitamin A, and their importance for rural food security. Contemporary cuisine has revalued them in restaurants that promote Mexican quelites.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between alaches and other quelites?

Alaches are distinguished from other quelites by their mucilaginous texture when cooked, similar to that of nopal or okra, while quintoniles or quelites cenizos do not release mucilage. Botanically, alaches belong to the family Malvaceae (Anoda cristata) and quintoniles to Amaranthaceae. This texture makes them ideal for thickening broths without added flours.

What do alaches taste like?

Alaches have a mild, slightly sweet and vegetal herbal flavour, with an earthy background similar to that of young spinach. They are not bitter or spicy. Their greatest culinary appeal is not the flavour but the mucilaginous texture they contribute on cooking, giving body and unctuousness to broths. They combine very well with maize masa, epazote and chile guajillo.

How are alaches served?

They are traditionally prepared in broth with dissolved maize masa, chile guajillo, garlic and onion, forming a thick soup served hot with tortillas. They are also stewed with tomato, epazote and onion as a side, added to pork-rib stews or stuffed in tlacoyos together with beans. Their natural mucilage allows them to be used as a thickener in other rural preparations.

Where are alaches originally from?

Alaches are native to Mesoamerica and grow wild in the maize fields of central Mexico. Their main consumption areas are the State of Mexico, Morelos, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Mexico City. They sprout during the rainy season, between June and October, associated with the milpa system that the Nahua, Mazahua and Otomi peoples have maintained for centuries.