Bacalao a la vizcaína: what's in it and how it's made

What is it?

Mexican bacalao a la vizcaina is the central dish of the Christmas Eve dinner in much of Mexico, especially in the centre and south of the country. It consists of dried cod, desalted and shredded, cooked in a thick, aromatic sauce of stewed tomato, onion, garlic, bell peppers, green olives, capers, cubed potatoes, whole guero chillies (pickled or fresh), almonds, parsley and olive oil. Its flavour combines the saltiness of the dried fish, the sweetness of the ripe tomato, the acidity of the capers and olives, the moderate heat of the guero chillies and the richness of the olive oil, making it one of the most complex and beloved dishes of the national Christmas repertoire. Each family has its Christmas Eve recipe passed down through generations.

Origin and history

Bacalao a la vizcaina arrived in Mexico with the Spanish in the 16th century, imported by Basque sailors of the Basque Country who traded dried cod from the North Atlantic (Newfoundland, Iceland, Norway). The original Spanish recipe uses choricero peppers, garlic and oil, without tomato or chillies. In New Spain, the recipe evolved by incorporating local ingredients: tomato (Solanum lycopersicum, native to America), guero chillies and the characteristic amount of olive oil. Larousse Cocina notes that the Mexican version of bacalao a la vizcaina is practically unrecognisable to Basques: it has developed an identity of its own after 500 years of adaptation. Mexico Desconocido documents that the association with Christmas Eve comes from the viceregal period, when dried cod was the fish of Catholic Lent and abstinence, later transferred to the Christmas dinner as an enduring tradition. Today it is one of the best-selling Christmas dishes in markets such as La Viga, La Merced and Jamaica in Mexico City in December.

Characteristic ingredients

The dried cod traditionally used is salted Norwegian cod (Gadus morhua), although in recent years cheaper Alaska pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) is also used. The preparation requires planning: the cod is desalted for 24-48 hours with changes of water. Once desalted, it is briefly boiled, drained and shredded, removing skin and bones. The sauce (caldillo) is made by stewing peeled and chopped ripe tomatoes with onion, garlic, parsley, bay leaves and abundant olive oil, cooking slowly for 30-45 minutes until the sauce concentrates. Cubed cooked potatoes, pitted green olives, capers, whole guero chillies (which add controlled heat), red or yellow bell peppers in julienne, and whole or flaked almonds are added. Finally the shredded cod is incorporated and left to season for 15-20 minutes. It is served hot with bolillos to make a bacalao torta the next day. Regional variants include a version with raisins, parsley at the end or chipotle chilli.

Cultural significance

Mexican bacalao a la vizcaina is one of the strongest emblems of the Christmas Eve dinner throughout the country, particularly in Mexico City, Puebla, the State of Mexico, Veracruz, Queretaro, Guanajuato and Yucatan. Its preparation is a family ritual: mothers and grandmothers make the sauce on 23 December and shred the cod, leaving it ready to serve on the night of the 24th. It is a communal dish, usually yielding 20-30 portions and served in large clay pots or platters. The next day, the leftovers are turned into bacalao tortas in a bolillo or telera, one of the most eagerly awaited gastronomic experiences of 25 December. The Mexican dried-cod industry moves millions of pesos every December; the wholesale markets specialise in its distribution. Traditional Mexican cuisine was recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. Mexican bacalao is an example of colonial gastronomic adaptation, where an imported ingredient (North Atlantic fish) is blended with local products (tomato, chilli) to create a new and distinctly national recipe.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Mexican and Spanish bacalao a la vizcaina?

The original Spanish bacalao a la vizcaina has choricero peppers (no tomato), garlic, onion and plenty of olive oil, in an intense red-brown sauce. The Mexican one has ripe tomato as the base of the sauce, potatoes, green olives, capers, almonds and guero chillies. The Mexican version is more colourful, sweet and with heat; the Spanish one is more concentrated and deep in pepper flavour.

What does Mexican bacalao a la vizcaina taste like?

It tastes of a deep stewed-tomato sauce with notes of olive oil, mild heat from the guero chillies, pronounced saltiness from the dried cod, acidity from capers and olives, and sweet notes from almonds and bell peppers. The texture combines the shredded fish, the soft potatoes, the crunchy almonds and the moist sauce. It is complex, deep and festive.

How is bacalao served at Christmas Eve?

It is served hot as the main dish of the Christmas Eve dinner on 24 December, accompanied by wheat tortillas, warm bolillos to make a torta, white or red rice, and Christmas Eve salad. Each diner assembles their portion to taste. The next day the leftovers are turned into a bacalao torta, a much-awaited family tradition. It is accompanied by red wine or Christmas cider.

Where does bacalao a la vizcaina come from?

It comes from the Basque Country (Vizcaya, Spain), taken to Mexico by Basque sailors in the 16th century as salted dried cod from the North Atlantic. In New Spain the recipe was transformed by incorporating tomato, potato, almonds and chillies, until it became a distinctly Mexican dish. Its association with Christmas Eve comes from the viceregal period, when it was the fish of Catholic abstinence.