Bacanora: what it is and how it differs from mezcal

What is it?

Bacanora is a traditional Mexican spirit made in the state of Sonora from Agave angustifolia Haw., also called agave yaqui or pacífico, a plant native to the Sonoran sierra. Its name comes from the town of Bacanora, in the high sierra of the state, where its production was historically concentrated. It has a Denomination of Origin granted in 2000 by the IMPI and published in the Official Journal of the Federation, which protects production in 35 Sonoran municipalities. It has an alcohol content of 38–45% and a smoky, mineral, slightly sweet and herbaceous aromatic profile, with notes of desert, mesquite and spices from cooking in earthen ovens. Production is predominantly artisanal, with family distilleries that have made bacanora for generations, despite it having been banned for almost 78 years (1915–1992). Today it is one of the spirits with the greatest international reach, exported as a premium artisanal product and a symbol of Sonoran identity.

Origin and history

The production of bacanora has roots in the Yaqui, Mayo, Ópata and Pima culture of the Sonoran sierra from the pre-Hispanic period, when fermented drinks of Agave angustifolia were made. Modern distillation arrived with the Jesuit missionaries and Spanish miners of the seventeenth century, through copper stills brought via the Manila Galleon route. During the Porfiriato, governor Rafael Izábal banned the production and consumption of bacanora in 1915, with penalties reaching execution by firing squad, in reprisal for Sonoran rebelliousness. The prohibition remained until 1992, when it was revoked by the government of Manlio Fabio Beltrones, allowing the legalisation and professionalisation of the sector. Larousse Cocina, México Desconocido and gob.mx document the Denomination of Origin granted by the IMPI in 2000, which protects production in mountain municipalities such as Bacanora, Sahuaripa, Yécora, Soyopa and Aconchi. During the years of clandestinity, producers kept the trade alive in ravines and caves, passing it from parents to children as resilient, heritage knowledge.

Characteristic ingredients

Agave angustifolia Haw. is the same species used for mezcal in Oaxaca, but the soil and climate conditions of the Sonoran sierra generate a different profile. The plant takes 7–9 years to mature. When it sends up the floral quiote, the master bacaneros (Sonoran jimadores) cut the leaves and extract the heart, which weighs between 30 and 80 kg. The hearts are cooked in conical earthen ovens with mesquite, oak or Brazilwood firewood for 48–96 hours, which provides the characteristic smoky tone. After cooking they are crushed with mallets, axes or traditional tahonas, fermented in wooden or skin vats for 5–10 days with wild yeasts, and distilled twice in copper stills. The Denomination of Origin regulation establishes three categories: blanco (unaged), reposado (2–9 months in oak barrel) and añejo (more than a year). Studies at CIAD-Sonora and the University of Sonora analyse its aromatic compounds: esters, phenols, terpenes, fatty acids and furans that provide complexity. Brands such as Aribabi, Cielo Rojo, Sunora, Rancho Tepúa, Sierra del Tigre and La Casona produce premium bacanora exported to the USA, Europe and Asia.

Cultural significance

Bacanora is one of the most symbolic spirits of northern Mexico and forms part of the dossier of Traditional Mexican Cuisine inscribed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2010, in addition to having its own Denomination of Origin. It is an emblematic drink of Sonora, especially in the high sierra, where generations of producers resisted 78 years of prohibition. Its legalisation in 1992 and the subsequent Denomination of Origin have driven the professionalisation of the sector, generating employment for more than 12,000 people according to the Sonoran Bacanora Promotion Council. Festivals such as the International Bacanora Fair in Hermosillo, the Bacanora Festival in Bacanora and Bacanora Day in Sahuaripa celebrate its cultural recovery. CONABIO and CONAFOR monitor sustainable harvesting, since wild Agave angustifolia is slow-growing. Researchers at CIAD-Sonora work on managed cultivation to reduce pressure on wild populations. Chefs such as Daniel Hernández Sánchez and mixology bars such as Tlecán and Limantour have positioned bacanora as a premium spirit in contemporary mixology, on a par with Oaxacan mezcal and Chihuahuan sotol.

Frequently asked questions

What does bacanora taste like?

Bacanora has an intensely smoky, mineral and slightly sweet profile, with notes of mesquite, Sonoran desert, mountain herbs and a characteristic earthy undertone. Its smoky character comes from the long cooking of the hearts in earthen ovens with local woods. The aftertaste is persistent, spiced and slightly peppery, with notes of leather, blond tobacco and dry caramel. It is robust, complex and very distinctive.

What is the difference between bacanora and mezcal?

Both are distilled from Agave angustifolia, but bacanora is exclusive to Sonora (DO since 2000) and mezcal comes from Oaxaca and 9 other states (DO since 1994). Bacanora has a more mineral, smoky and arid profile from the Sonoran desert; Oaxacan mezcal is more vegetal, citrusy and sweet. The cooking and fermentation practices, and the desert terroir, generate different products despite the shared agave.

Why was bacanora banned?

In 1915, governor Rafael Izábal banned the production and consumption of bacanora in Sonora, with penalties of up to execution by firing squad, as a political reprisal against Sonoran rebelliousness and under hygienist arguments. The prohibition remained for 78 years, until 1992, when it was revoked. During the clandestinity, mountain producers kept the trade alive in ravines and caves, preserving a cultural heritage at risk of extinction.

Where does bacanora come from?

It is native to the high sierra of Sonora, particularly the town of Bacanora from which it takes its name, as well as municipalities such as Sahuaripa, Yécora, Soyopa, Aconchi and Onavas. Its traditional cultivation and distillation are linked to the Yaqui, Mayo, Ópata and Pima peoples. The Denomination of Origin granted in 2000 protects production in 35 officially recognised Sonoran municipalities.