Capulín: what it is, taste and uses of the Mexican cherry

What is it?

Capulín is one of the most beloved and ancient fruits of Mexican highland cuisine: a small spherical drupe of one to two centimetres in diameter, similar to a cherry but smaller, with a thin skin of dark purple or almost shiny black when ripe, fleshy reddish, slightly fibrous pulp, and a large hard central seed in proportion to the fruit. Its flavour is bittersweet, slightly astringent, with notes reminiscent of wild cherry, sloe and a subtle noble bitterness. It is eaten mainly fresh, in small portions because of its size, as well as in a variety of traditional preparations: capulín tamales (typical of the State of Mexico and Tlaxcala), capulín atole, jams, preserves, artisanal liqueurs and traditional sweets. The season runs from May to July, brief and much anticipated in the towns of the Mexican highlands, where wild and cultivated trees produce abundant harvests that are used straight away.

Origin and history

Capulín is endemic to central and southern Mexico, particularly the Mexican highlands and parts of Central America, where its use is documented from pre-Hispanic times. The name capulín comes from the Nahuatl capulli, meaning small covered thing, probably in reference to the rounded shape of the fruit. Sahagún in the Florentine Codex and Francisco Hernández in his Historia natural de la Nueva España, both from the sixteenth century, document capulín among the important fruits of Mexica cuisine, attributing food and medicinal uses to it. The tree belongs to the genus Prunus, the same as Old World cherries, plums and peaches, making it a botanical relative of European stone fruits. The Mexican subspecies, Prunus serotina subsp. capuli, differs from its North American relative (Prunus serotina subsp. serotina, the black cherry) by its larger, sweeter fruits, the result of centuries of selection by pre-Hispanic peoples. After the conquest, capulín lost prominence to European cherries and other introduced fruits, but it remained alive in the rural traditional cuisine of the highlands. In the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, chefs and anthropologists such as Cristina Barros and Marco Buenrostro have documented and revived its use, and CONABIO highlights its importance as part of Mexico's biocultural heritage.

Characteristic ingredients

Capulín is Prunus serotina subsp. capuli, a deciduous tree of the Rosaceae family that can reach up to twenty metres in height, with dark bark and toothed elliptical leaves. It flowers in spring with clusters of white flowers and produces fruit in summer. The leaves and seeds contain hydrocyanic acid (in small amounts), so the seeds should not be eaten and the leaves are used in moderation in cooking (in small quantities to flavour tamales and atoles). The pulp, by contrast, is safe and nutritious, rich in anthocyanins (powerful antioxidants that give the purple-red colour), vitamin C, iron, calcium and fibre. The fruits are eaten fresh, consumed whole and spitting out the seed, similar to cherries. Traditional culinary uses include capulín tamales, originating in the State of Mexico and Tlaxcala, where the pulp is mixed with maize masa and wrapped in maize husk; capulín atole, a thick, sweet drink; jams and preserves in syrup; artisanal liqueurs made by macerating in alcohol; and traditional sweets such as jellies. In some towns such as Tepetlaoxtoc (State of Mexico), capulín is the star of annual festivities and fairs. The leaves are used as a flavouring in some regions, especially to scent atoles and tamales, in small quantities. CONABIO lists capulín among the native fruit trees prioritised for conservation and agroforestry development.

Cultural significance

Capulín is biocultural heritage of the Mexican highlands and one of the most symbolic fruits of the May–July season in towns of the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Hidalgo and Michoacán. It is an essential ingredient of capulín tamales, typical sweets of highland cuisine prepared especially during Lent and at rural patron saint festivities. The Capulín Fair in Tepetlaoxtoc (State of Mexico) and other similar celebrations keep the fruit tradition alive, with competitions of tamales, atoles, jams and sweets. Traditional Mexican cuisine, inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, includes native fruits such as capulín among its essential components. Economically, capulín is harvested mostly from wild trees and family backyards, without large-scale commercial cultivation, which supports small rural economies of seasonal use. Contemporary chefs such as Enrique Olvera, Elena Reygadas and Margarita Carrillo Arronte have rediscovered capulín, incorporating it into fine dining menus as one of Mexico's great forgotten fruits. The wood of the tree is also traditionally used for furniture and rural construction, and the leaves as a medicinal remedy for respiratory complaints in indigenous traditional medicine.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between capulín and European cherry?

Both are fruits of the genus Prunus, but the Mexican capulín (Prunus serotina subsp. capuli) is smaller than the European cherry (Prunus avium), with a darker skin and more acidic, astringent pulp, with a proportionally larger seed. The cherry is sweeter, juicier and has firmer pulp. Capulín has a more rustic, bittersweet character, while the cherry is more refined and balanced in flavour.

What does capulín taste like?

Capulín has a bittersweet flavour, slightly astringent, with notes reminiscent of wild cherry, sloe and a subtle noble bitterness. The ripe pulp is fleshy but slightly fibrous, with a darker, more concentrated character than European cherry. Cooked in tamales or atole it sweetens and softens, releasing fruity, almost wine-like aromas very characteristic of the Mexican highlands.

How is capulín eaten?

It is eaten mainly fresh, whole and in small portions because of its size, spitting out the hard central seed. It is also used in capulín tamales (with maize masa, wrapped in husk), capulín atole, jams and preserves in syrup, artisanal liqueurs and traditional sweets such as jellies. The leaves are used in small quantities as a flavouring for atoles and tamales. The seed should never be eaten, as it contains hydrocyanic acid.

Where does capulín come from?

It is endemic to central and southern Mexico and parts of Central America, where its use is documented from pre-Hispanic times in sources such as Sahagún and Francisco Hernández. The name comes from the Nahuatl capulli. Today it grows wild and cultivated in towns of the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Hidalgo and Michoacán, harvested mostly from wild trees and family backyards during the brief May–July season.