Clay cazuela: the mother vessel for moles, stews and rice

What is it?

The clay cazuela is the wide, shallow vessel fundamental for the preparation of moles, rice, pipianes, slow stews and festive preparations in Mexican cuisine. More open than a pot and deeper than a comal, its shape allows sautéing, boiling, reducing and serving in a single piece. Clay cazuelas are irreplaceable for authentic moles: only in clay do moles fully develop the integration of ingredients (chillies, chocolate, spices, seeds, fruit) during hours of slow cooking. The porosity of the clay retains heat uniformly and allows liquids to thicken without burning at the bottom. The potter towns of Oaxaca, Michoacan, State of Mexico, Puebla and Guerrero produce cazuelas in different styles, sizes and glazes, keeping alive an ancient tradition honoured at festivities and gastronomic celebrations.

Origin and history

The clay cazuela is pre-Hispanic and is documented at Mesoamerican archaeological sites such as Teotihuacan, Cholula, Monte Alban and Tula for more than 3,000 years. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun describes in the 16th century the diversity of cazuelas used by the Mexica to prepare stews, atoles, primitive moles (chilmolli) and other dishes. After the conquest, the clay cazuela fused with Spanish techniques: the convent cuisine of the 17th century, especially in Puebla, refined complex moles such as poblano (attributed to Sor Andrea de la Asuncion of the convent of Santa Rosa) and Oaxacan, all cooked in large cazuelas. During the colonial era, large cazuelas (30 to 60 cm in diameter) became central in convent kitchens and haciendas. INAH and FONART document that potter towns such as Capula and Patamban (Michoacan), Atzompa (Oaxaca), Metepec (State of Mexico) and Tlayacapan (Morelos) maintain their own technical and aesthetic traditions in the production of cazuelas. Some reach 80 cm in diameter for patronal festivities and communal banquets.

Characteristic ingredients

Clay cazuelas vary in size, colour and regional tradition. The smallest (15 to 20 cm) are used for table service, the medium ones (25 to 40 cm) for domestic cooking and the large ones (40 to 80 cm or more) for festivals and communal celebrations. The most recognised style is the Mexican red clay cazuela with white flowers painted by hand, typical of Tonala and Tlaquepaque (Jalisco). Other styles include the green glazed clay of Patamban (Michoacan), the polished black clay of San Bartolo Coyotepec (Oaxaca), the natural red clay of Capula and the polychrome red clay of Metepec. Before first use, the cazuela must be cured: it is filled with water and a handful of lime or bicarbonate of soda, boiled for 1 to 2 hours to seal the porosity. Some prefer to cure with milk or garlic. Cooking in cazuela requires low-intensity fire: the clay does not withstand sudden changes in temperature. Modern certified cazuelas are lead-free; old glazed ones may contain lead and should only be used for decorative service.

Cultural significance

The clay cazuela is a heritage cultural object of Mexico, recognised as an essential element of traditional Mexican cuisine, declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. Large mole cazuelas are the stars of weddings, fifteens, patronal festivities and communal banquets in towns of Oaxaca, Puebla, Tlaxcala, State of Mexico and Michoacan. Traditional moles (poblano, black Oaxacan, red, yellow, green, manchamanteles) are prepared in large cazuelas for hours, in a collective practice that brings several cooks together. Religious festivities such as posadas, wakes and patronal feasts require mole cazuelas served at the table. On Day of the Dead, cazuelas appear on altars with mole, rice and other favourite dishes of the deceased. The markets of Mexico City such as Jamaica, Mercado de Sonora and Mercado de Jamaica sell cazuelas from all regions, keeping the pottery economy alive. FONART and the Ministry of Culture promote lead-free certified cazuelas.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a cazuela and a clay pot?

The pot is tall, bellied and used to boil abundant liquids (beans, atoles, soups). The cazuela is wide and shallow, ideal for sautés, moles, thick stews and preparations where liquids need to be reduced. The cazuela also functions as a serving vessel: from the hearth it goes directly to the table to serve mole.

What does food cooked in a clay cazuela taste like?

It has a deeper flavour with earthy notes than that cooked in metal. The clay distributes heat uniformly, which allows flavours to integrate without burning. Moles develop full aromatic complexity, rice releases starch gradually and pipianes maintain their essential oils. The patina of the cazuela enriches successive stews.

How is a new clay cazuela cured?

It is rinsed with water and filled with water until the interior is covered; a handful of quicklime or bicarbonate is added; it is boiled for 1 to 2 hours over low heat. The water is discarded, it is rinsed and left to dry. Some cooks add a clove of garlic and oil to seal the porosity. After each use it is cleaned without abrasive soap and air-dried.

Where are Mexican clay cazuelas from?

Clay cazuelas are originally from Mesoamerica, with documented use for more than 3,000 years. Today the main producing centres are Tonala and Tlaquepaque (Jalisco, red cazuelas with flowers), Capula and Patamban (Michoacan), San Bartolo Coyotepec and Atzompa (Oaxaca), Metepec (State of Mexico) and Tlayacapan (Morelos), each with unique styles.