Chalupas poblanas: what they are and how to make them

What is it?

Chalupas poblanas are one of the most typical and best-loved antojitos (snacks) of Puebla: small oval tortillas of nixtamalised maize masa, freshly made by hand, briefly fried in lard on a comal with little fat, and immediately bathed in green tomatillo salsa or red guajillo chilli salsa. On top they are sprinkled with finely chopped white onion and shredded pork or chicken, and in some cases also fresh cheese. They are served hot, in batches of six or twelve, and eaten with the hands in a few bites. They are the quintessential antojito of Puebla street cooking, found at the stalls of the El Carmen market, the historic centre of Puebla and traditional neighbourhoods such as Santiago, Analco and El Alto. Chalupas are distinguished by their small size, their light frying technique and the dual colour option of green and red salsas, which sit together on the same plate.

Origin and history

The name chalupa comes from the Nahuatl chalupatl or from the Spanish word chalupa, meaning a small boat, in allusion to the oval shape of the tortilla, which recalls a canoe. Its pre-Hispanic origin is evident in the use of nixtamalised maize and the comal-and-lard technique, inherited from the Tlaxcaltec and Nahua peoples settled in the Puebla-Tlaxcala valley. During the colonial period, with the introduction of the pig, frying in lard became established as a cooking technique for antojitos. Puebla recipe books of the 19th century already mention chalupas as an established dish of the local cuisine. Urban legend places the origin of modern chalupas in the Santiago neighbourhood, in central Puebla, around the late 19th or early 20th century, when antojito vendors began offering them from earthenware dishes in the arcades of Puebla's main square. Today they are identified as an emblematic antojito alongside cemitas, molotes, tlacoyos and memelas, all part of the repertoire of Puebla cooking that formed the basis of the UNESCO dossier for traditional Mexican cuisine.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic masa is of nixtamalised maize, shaped into small oval tortillas of six to eight centimetres, patted by hand to keep the characteristic shape. They are briefly cooked on a comal, generously spread with lard and returned to the comal or moved to a frying pan with a little hot lard so they brown slightly underneath without hardening too much: the chalupa should be soft inside and slightly crisp underneath. The green salsa is made with tomatillo, serrano or jalapeño chilli, onion, garlic and coriander, boiled and then crushed in a molcajete; the red salsa with guajillo chilli, tomato, garlic and onion. The traditional meat is shredded pork, cooked in water with salt, garlic and onion, though chicken is also used. Some stalls offer cheese or potato chalupas for vegetarian versions. They are assembled to order: salsa, raw onion and meat, with no cream, no lettuce, no avocado; this is one of the traits that sets them apart from other similar antojitos. Pasilla chilli may appear in a third salsa variant at some stalls.

Cultural significance

Chalupas are part of the intangible gastronomic heritage of Puebla, a city recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 1987 and whose cuisine is one of the most documented in Mexico. They form part of the repertoire of antojitos that, alongside mole poblano, chiles en nogada, cemitas, tlacoyos and chalupines, have made Puebla a national and international gastronomic reference. There are legendary chalupa makers, such as those of El Alto, those of Cholula and those of 5 de Mayo street in central Puebla, where generations of families have kept the recipe. They appear at local festivities, food fairs and celebrations of the 5th of May, the date commemorating the Battle of Puebla. Traditional Mexican Cuisine, inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, includes this kind of nixtamalised maize preparation. Economically, chalupas are a livelihood for traditional cooks and small stalls, and constitute one of the main gastronomic tourist draws of Puebla, along with the rest of the antojitos of the city's historic centre.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chalupas poblanas and Tex-Mex Mexican chalupas?

Chalupas poblanas are small oval tortillas of fresh masa, briefly fried in lard and served with green or red salsa, onion and shredded meat, with no lettuce or cream. Tex-Mex chalupas are large, flat, hard tostadas topped with beans, lettuce, tomato, yellow cheese and sour cream, closer to a tostada than to the original Puebla antojito.

What do chalupas poblanas taste like?

The flavour of nixtamalised maize and lard predominates, with the green tomatillo salsa providing acidity and heat, or the red guajillo salsa giving fruity and smoky notes. The raw onion adds crisp freshness and the shredded pork salty juiciness. It is a direct flavour, with no dairy to mask the masa and the salsas.

How are chalupas poblanas served?

They are served freshly made and hot, in batches of six or twelve, alternating green and red salsa on the same plate, which creates a contrast of colour and flavour. They are eaten with the hands, in a few bites, usually accompanied by hibiscus water, horchata or chia. At food stalls they are offered as a starter or as a main snack for a light meal.

Where do chalupas poblanas come from?

They originate from the city of Puebla, particularly the Santiago neighbourhood in the historic centre, where they became popular in the 19th century. They form part of the rich repertoire of antojitos of the Puebla-Tlaxcala valley, heir to pre-Hispanic Nahua and Tlaxcaltec cooking, with the colonial technique of frying in lard giving them their present-day character. Today they are a national emblem of Puebla cuisine.