Chalupas poblanas: the Puebla fried masa antojito with green and red salsa

What is it?

Chalupas poblanas are one of the most typical and beloved antojitos of Puebla: small oval tortillas of nixtamalised maize masa, freshly made by hand, briefly fried in pork lard on a comal with little grease, and immediately topped with green tomatillo salsa or red chile guajillo salsa. They are sprinkled with finely chopped white onion and shredded pork or chicken, and in some cases also fresh cheese. They are served hot, by the order of six or twelve, and eaten by hand in a few bites. They are the quintessential antojito of Puebla street food, present at stalls in El Carmen Market, the historic centre of Puebla and in traditional neighbourhoods such as Santiago, Analco and El Alto. Chalupas are distinguished by their small size, their light frying technique and the dual choice of green and red salsa colours, which coexist on the same plate.

Origin and history

The name chalupa comes from the Nahuatl chalupatl or from the Spanish word chalupa, designating a small boat, alluding to the oval shape of the tortilla, which resembles a canoe. Its pre-Hispanic origin is evident in the use of nixtamalised maize and the comal-with-lard technique, inherited from the Tlaxcalans and Nahuas settled in the Puebla-Tlaxcala Valley. During the colonial period, with the introduction of pork, frying in lard became established as a cooking technique for antojitos. Puebla recipe books of the 19th century already mention chalupas as an established dish of local gastronomy. Urban legend places the origin of modern chalupas in the Santiago neighbourhood, in central Puebla, towards the end of the 19th century or the beginning of the 20th, when antojito sellers began to offer them in casseroles in the portales of the Puebla zócalo. Today they are identified as an emblematic antojito alongside cemitas, molotes, tlacoyos and memelas, all part of the repertoire of Puebla cuisine that served as the basis for the UNESCO Traditional Mexican Cuisine dossier.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic masa is of nixtamalised maize, formed into small oval tortillas of six to eight centimetres, hand-patted to maintain the characteristic shape. They are briefly cooked on the comal, generously spread with pork lard and returned to the comal or passed to a pan with a little hot lard to lightly brown underneath, without becoming too hard: the chalupa must be soft inside and slightly crisp underneath. The green salsa is made with tomatillo, serrano or jalapeño chilli, onion, garlic and coriander, boiled and then mashed in a molcajete; the red salsa with chile guajillo, tomato, garlic and onion. The traditional meat is shredded pork, cooked in water with salt, garlic and onion, although chicken is also used. Some stalls offer cheese or potato chalupas for vegetarian versions. They are assembled at the moment: salsa, raw onion and meat, no cream, no lettuce, no avocado; that is one of the features that distinguishes them from other similar antojitos. Chile pasilla can appear in a third salsa variant at some stalls.

Cultural significance

Chalupas are intangible gastronomic heritage of Puebla, a city recognised by UNESCO as World Heritage since 1987 and whose cuisine is one of the most documented in Mexico. They form part of the antojito repertoire that together with mole poblano, chiles en nogada, cemitas, tlacoyos and chalupines, has made Puebla a national and international gastronomic reference. There are legendary chalupías, such as those of El Alto, those of Cholula and those of 5 de Mayo Street in central Puebla, where generations of families have kept the recipe. They appear at local festivities, gastronomic fairs and 5 de Mayo celebrations, a date commemorating the Battle of Puebla. Traditional Mexican Cuisine, inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, includes these types of nixtamalised maize preparations. Economically, chalupas are the livelihood of traditional cooks and small stalls, and constitute one of Puebla's main gastronomic tourist draws, alongside the other antojitos of the city's historic centre.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chalupas poblanas and Tex-Mex Mexican chalupas?

Chalupas poblanas are small oval tortillas of fresh masa, briefly fried in lard and served with green or red salsa, onion and shredded meat, without lettuce or cream. Tex-Mex chalupas are large flat hard tostadas covered with beans, lettuce, tomato, yellow cheese and soured cream, closer to a tostada than to the original Puebla antojito.

What do chalupas poblanas taste like?

The flavour of nixtamalised maize and pork lard predominates, with the green tomatillo salsa bringing acidity and heat, or the red guajillo one giving fruity and smoky notes. The raw onion adds crisp freshness and shredded pork, salty juiciness. It is a direct flavour, without dairy to mask the masa and salsas.

How are chalupas poblanas served?

They are served freshly made, hot, by the order of six or twelve, alternating green and red salsa on the same plate, which creates a colour and flavour contrast. They are eaten by hand, in a few bites, generally accompanied by agua de jamaica, horchata or chía. In fondas they are offered as a starter or as a main antojito for a light meal.

Where do chalupas poblanas come from?

They are native to the city of Puebla, particularly the Santiago neighbourhood in the historic centre, where they became popular in the 19th century. They form part of the rich antojito repertoire of the Puebla-Tlaxcala Valley, heir to pre-Hispanic Nahua and Tlaxcalan cuisine, with the colonial frying in lard that gave them their current character. Today they are a national emblem of Puebla cuisine.