Chicatanas: the edible leaf-cutter ants of Oaxaca

What is it?

Chicatanas, also called nucú in Chiapas and zompopos in Central America, are the reproductive ants (winged queens) of Atta mexicana, a leaf-cutter ant that emerges on its nuptial flight after the first heavy rains of May or June. In states such as Oaxaca, Guerrero, Veracruz and Chiapas their nocturnal collection is a peasant tradition: they are caught with buckets or light traps at dawn and prepared toasted on a comal with garlic and salt, or ground into a salsa with chile pasilla and tomato. Their flavour recalls smoked bacon, toasted peanut and caramelised onion, with notes of damp earth. They are a seasonal food of very high cultural and economic value, considered one of the most representative delicacies of Mexican entomophagy.

Origin and history

The pre-Hispanic consumption of chicatanas is documented by Bernardino de Sahagún in the Florentine Codex, where he describes large winged ants that are eaten toasted. CONABIO Enciclovida and the National Forestry Commission report that their collection follows Mesoamerican agricultural patterns, since their appearance coincides with the start of the rainy season and the maize planting. In the Mixteca region of Oaxaca and on the Costa Chica of Guerrero, their capture takes place during a single night a year, called the night of the chicatanas, when entire communities gather around anthills to collect the queens. In Chiapas, the Zoque and Tzeltal peoples maintain the tradition of nucú roasted in banana leaves. Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido agree that the chicatana has gone from being a subsistence food to a delicacy, reaching prices of up to 3,500 pesos per clean kilo.

Characteristic ingredients

Atta mexicana is a cutter ant that lives in underground colonies of up to two million individuals. The ones consumed are the winged females, called queens or gynes, of 2-3 cm, with an abdomen rich in fat, ready to found new colonies. They are prepared by removing wings and legs, toasting them on a comal with garlic, salt and, occasionally, chilli. Once toasted, they are ground in a molcajete with chile pasilla, garlic, salt and a splash of water to make the legendary chicatana salsa, which accompanies tlayudas, memelas and grilled meats. In Pluma Hidalgo, Oaxaca, a chicatana mole is also made with cacao and spices. Studies from the UNAM Institute of Biology report protein contents of 42% by dry weight, in addition to essential fatty acids and minerals such as iron and zinc, higher than those of egg.

Cultural significance

Chicatanas are a symbol of Oaxacan and Guerrerense cuisine, included in the Traditional Mexican Cuisine dossier declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2010. Chef Enrique Olvera's chicatana salsa, served at Pujol, achieved worldwide fame after being highlighted by Anthony Bourdain and by Gourmet magazine, contributing to the revaluation of Mexican entomophagy in the 21st century. Their ritual consumption is linked to the start of the agricultural year: in some communities the first harvest of chicatanas is offered to the earth before planting. Pressure from urbanisation, pesticides and overexploitation threatens the wild colonies, so CONABIO and INECOL are promoting monitoring and sustainable use programmes. Gastronomic festivals in Yanhuitlán, Tlaxiaco and Tehuantepec celebrate their arrival with chicatana salsa and mole contests.

Frequently asked questions

What do chicatanas taste like?

Chicatanas taste of smoked bacon, toasted peanut and caramelised onion, with earthy notes of damp soil. When toasted they take on a burnt-nut aftertaste, and when ground into salsa they boost a deep umami. Their abdominal fat brings creaminess similar to clarified butter.

How are chicatanas prepared?

Their wings and legs are removed, they are toasted on a comal with garlic and salt until golden and ground in a molcajete with chile pasilla, green tomato and salt to make chicatana salsa. They are also served whole as a snack, in tacos with freshly made tortillas, or in mole with cacao and spices in the Sierra Sur of Oaxaca.

When are chicatanas harvested?

They are collected on a single night a year, after the first heavy rains of May or June, when the queen ants fly to found new colonies. The capture is done before dawn, near anthills and light posts, and is usually a nocturnal community activity in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Veracruz and Chiapas.

Where do chicatanas come from?

Atta mexicana is an ant endemic to Mexico and Central America. Edible chicatanas are mainly collected in Oaxaca (Sierra Sur, Mixteca), Guerrero (Costa Chica), Veracruz (Sierra de Misantla) and Chiapas, where they are called nucú. Their consumption has been documented since pre-Hispanic times by Sahagún and other colonial chroniclers.