Chile de agua: the emblematic fresh chilli of Oaxaca

What is it?

Chile de agua is the flagship fresh chilli of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, considered one of the most identity-defining chillies of traditional Oaxacan cooking. It is medium-sized (6-9 cm), with an elongated triangular shape, glossy light green skin with yellowish tones, and ripens to an orange-red. It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum and is grown exclusively in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca and surrounding areas. Its heat is moderate (5,000-10,000 Scoville units), comparable to jalapeño. It brings a fresh, herbal, crisp flavour with very lively vegetal notes. It is used in Oaxacan stuffed chillies, rajas, fresh Oaxacan salsas, tlayudas and memelas. It is the favourite fresh chilli of traditional Oaxacan cooks such as Abigail Mendoza and a regular sight at the markets of Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlan.

Origin and history

Chile de agua is a Capsicum annuum endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, where it has been grown since pre-Hispanic times. Its regional name comes from its very juicy flesh, which seems to release water when cut. The Zapotec and Mixtec peoples have grown it for centuries in traditional milpas of the valley. Larousse Cocina and Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy identify it as a defining ingredient of Oaxacan cuisine. Traditional Oaxacan cuisine has been recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010. CONABIO documents chile de agua as an endemic variety of the Central Valleys and warns of the pressure on its cultivation from urbanisation, climate change and the introduction of commercial varieties. SADER recognises it as a regional fresh chilli with potential for a protected designation of origin. Its artisanal production sustains the economy of small indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec producers of the valley.

Characteristic ingredients

Chile de agua is an endemic Capsicum annuum grown in small family plots of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, especially in Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlan. Its fruits measure between 6 and 9 cm, have an elongated triangular shape similar to jalapeño but narrower, and are harvested green (most commonly) or left to ripen to orange-red. Its flesh is very juicy - hence the name -, fine and crisp, with smooth glossy skin. Its heat is moderate (5,000-10,000 SHU) and it brings a fresh, vegetal and aromatic herbal flavour. To use it, roast it whole on a comal until the skin turns translucent, peel and devein. It is then stuffed with Oaxaca cheese or picadillo (Oaxacan stuffed chillies), cut into thin rajas to accompany tlayudas and memelas, or chopped raw for fresh salsa with tomato and lime. It is also prepared cured in lime juice with onion, salt and oregano, a very popular street preparation in Oaxaca. It should not be confused with poblano: chile de agua is slimmer, hotter and juicier.

Cultural significance

Chile de agua is one of the most identity-defining fresh chillies of Oaxacan cooking and a cultural emblem of the Central Valleys. It forms part of the traditional cuisine recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. Its exclusive production in the Central Valleys sustains the economy of small indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec producers in municipalities such as Tlacolula, Zaachila, Etla and Ocotlan, where it is sold loose in traditional markets. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli and CONABIO includes it in the heritage of native chillies potentially at risk. It is an essential ingredient of Oaxacan stuffed chillies, tlayudas with asiento and Oaxacan memelas. Traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza (Tlamanalli) and Pilar Cabrera have brought chile de agua to fine dining. Its availability outside Oaxaca is limited, so in Mexico City and other regions it is usually imported weekly for Oaxacan restaurants.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chile de agua and chile poblano?

Both are fresh green Capsicum annuum chillies but come from different varieties. Chile de agua is endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, slimmer (6-9 cm), hotter (5,000-10,000 SHU) and juicier. Poblano is native to Puebla, larger and fleshier (10-15 cm), less hot (1,000-2,000 SHU). For Oaxacan stuffed chillies, chile de agua is preferred; for chiles en nogada, poblano.

What does chile de agua taste like?

It brings a fresh, vegetal and aromatic herbal flavour with moderate heat (5,000-10,000 Scoville units), comparable to jalapeño but with a cleaner profile. Its very juicy flesh releases flavours quickly. When roasted on the comal it develops gentle caramelised sweet notes. It has a more vegetal and crisp flavour than poblano and is less hot than manzano.

How is chile de agua used?

It is roasted whole on the comal until the skin turns translucent, peeled and deveined. It is then stuffed with Oaxacan fresh cheese or picadillo for Oaxacan stuffed chillies, cut into rajas to accompany tlayudas and memelas, or chopped raw for fresh salsa with tomato. It is also prepared cured in lime juice with onion and oregano, a popular street preparation in Oaxaca.

Where does chile de agua come from?

It is native and endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, where it is traditionally grown in small family milpas by Zapotec and Mixtec communities in municipalities such as Tlacolula, Etla, Ocotlan and Zaachila. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli and CONABIO includes it in the heritage of native chillies. Its artisanal production maintains traditional techniques inherited over centuries.