Chile de agua: what it is, heat, uses and substitutes

What is it?

Chile de agua is the emblematic fresh chilli of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, considered one of the most identity-bearing chillies of traditional Oaxacan cuisine. It is medium in size (6-9 cm), with an elongated triangular shape, bright pale-green skin with yellowish tones, ripening to an orange-red. It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum and is grown exclusively in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca and neighbouring areas. Its heat is moderate (5,000-10,000 Scoville units), comparable to the jalapeño. It contributes a fresh, herbal and crunchy flavour, with very lively vegetal notes. It is used in Oaxacan stuffed chillies, rajas, fresh Oaxacan salsas, tlayudas and memelas. It is the preferred fresh chilli of traditional Oaxacan cooks such as Abigail Mendoza and a regular feature in the markets of Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlán.

Origin and history

Chile de agua is a Capsicum annuum endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, where it has been grown since pre-Hispanic times. Its regional name comes from its very juicy flesh, which seems to release water when cut. The Zapotec and Mixtec peoples have grown it for centuries in the traditional milpas of the valley. Larousse Cocina and Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana identify it as an identity-bearing ingredient of Oaxacan cuisine. Traditional Oaxacan cuisine is recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010. CONABIO documents chile de agua as a variety endemic to the Central Valleys and warns of the pressure its cultivation faces from urbanisation, climate change and the introduction of commercial varieties. SADER recognises it as a regional fresh chilli with potential for a designation of origin. Its artisanal production sustains the economy of small indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec producers of the valley.

Characteristic ingredients

Chile de agua is an endemic Capsicum annuum grown on small family plots of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, especially in Tlacolula, Etla and Ocotlán. Its fruits measure between 6 and 9 cm, have an elongated triangular shape similar to the jalapeño but narrower, and are harvested green (most commonly) or left to ripen to orange-red. Its flesh is very juicy -hence the name-, fine and crunchy, with smooth shiny skin. Its heat is moderate (5,000-10,000 SHU) and it contributes a fresh, vegetal and aromatic herbal flavour. To use it, it is roasted whole on the comal until the skin becomes translucent, peeled and deveined. It is then stuffed with Oaxacan cheese or picadillo (Oaxacan stuffed chillies), cut into thin strips to accompany tlayudas and memelas, or chopped raw for fresh salsa with tomato and lime. It is also prepared cured in lime with onion, salt and oregano, a very popular street preparation in Oaxaca. It should not be confused with the poblano: the de agua is thinner, spicier and juicier.

Cultural significance

Chile de agua is one of the most identity-bearing fresh chillies of Oaxacan cuisine and a cultural emblem of the Central Valleys. It forms part of traditional cuisine recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. Its exclusive production in the Central Valleys sustains the economy of small indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec producers in municipalities such as Tlacolula, Zaachila, Etla and Ocotlán, where it is sold loose in traditional markets. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli and CONABIO includes it in the heritage of native chillies at possible risk. It is an essential ingredient of Oaxacan stuffed chillies, tlayudas with asiento and Oaxacan memelas. Traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza (Tlamanalli) and Pilar Cabrera have taken chile de agua into fine dining. Its availability outside Oaxaca is limited, so in Mexico City and other regions it is usually imported weekly for Oaxacan restaurants.

Frequently asked questions