Chile pasilla oaxaqueño: the smoked chilli of the Oaxaca sierra

What is it?

Chile pasilla oaxaqueño, also called pasilla mixe, is a smoked chilli endemic to the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca, grown by the Mixe communities at altitudes above 1,500 metres. It is completely different from common chile pasilla (dried chilaca of the Bajio): it is a regional variety of Capsicum annuum whose fruits are smoked after harvest in rudimentary wood ovens. It measures between 5 and 8 cm, has an elongated wrinkled shape and a dark almost black brown colour. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), considerably higher than common pasilla (1,000-2,500 SHU). It brings a deep smoky flavour with notes of cacao, coffee, dried fruit and a hint of woodsmoke. It is an essential ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro, Oaxacan pasilla salsa, memelas and tlayudas.

Origin and history

Chile pasilla oaxaqueño is a chilli endemic to the Sierra Mixe of Oaxaca, traditionally grown by indigenous Mixe communities in municipalities such as San Pedro y San Pablo Ayutla, Totontepec and Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec. Its name shares a root with common pasilla but the chilli itself is different: a regional variety of Capsicum annuum whose characteristic process is smoking after harvest, in wood huts over several days. Larousse Cocina and the Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy identify it as a regional chilli with its own identity, essential in Oaxacan cooking. CONABIO documents the Oaxacan pasilla as an endemic Mixe variety, at risk due to pressure from industrial chillies. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli with potential for a protected designation of origin. It forms part of the repertoire of essential Oaxacan chillies alongside chilhuacle and chilcostle, all represented in traditional cuisine recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Characteristic ingredients

Chile pasilla oaxaqueño is a Capsicum annuum grown at high altitude in the Sierra Mixe of Oaxaca. Its fruits are harvested when ripe red and undergo slow smoking for several days in rudimentary wood ovens, generally of oak and madrone. This process gives it a dark almost black brown colour, wrinkled skin and an intense smoky aroma. It measures between 5 and 8 cm. It should not be confused with common pasilla (sun-dried chilaca of the Bajio): the Oaxacan is smaller, smoked instead of sun-dried, hotter (8,000-15,000 SHU) and with a very different aromatic profile, with notes of cacao, coffee, dried fruit and woodsmoke. To use it, devein, deseed, briefly toast on a comal (carefully because of its dark colour) and rehydrate in hot water. Then blend with tomato, chilhuacle and other ingredients for mole negro, or with garlic and salt for Oaxacan pasilla salsa, which accompanies tlayudas and memelas.

Cultural significance

Chile pasilla oaxaqueño is one of the most defining regional chillies of Oaxacan cuisine recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. It is an essential ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro alongside chilhuacle, and the undisputed star of Oaxacan pasilla salsa, which accompanies tlayudas, memelas, chapulin tacos and many antojitos. Its cultivation and smoking are concentrated exclusively in Mixe municipalities of the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca, where it sustains the economy of small indigenous producers. SADER, CONABIO and organisations such as Slow Food run projects to conserve its seed and its traditional smoking process. Traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza (Tlamanalli, Teotitlan del Valle) and chefs such as Olga Cabrera and Alejandro Ruiz keep it in their menus. Its price at markets such as the Central de Abastos of Oaxaca can be several times that of common pasilla, reflecting its limited production and its cultural value.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chile pasilla oaxaqueño and common chile pasilla?

They are two completely different chillies. Common pasilla is sun-dried chilaca, typical of the Bajio, elongated (15-20 cm), mildly hot (1,000-2,500 SHU) and with a herbal flavour. Pasilla oaxaqueño is a regional variety endemic to the Sierra Mixe that is smoked with wood, smaller (5-8 cm), hotter (8,000-15,000 SHU) and with a smoky flavour of cacao, coffee and dried fruit. They are not interchangeable in recipes.

What does chile pasilla oaxaqueño taste like?

It brings a deep smoky flavour with notes of cacao, toasted coffee, dried fruit, woodsmoke and an earthy hint. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), higher than common pasilla. When briefly toasted it develops notes of bitter chocolate and burnt caramel that enrich dark moles and table salsas. Its aromatic profile is unique among Mexican smoked chillies.

What is chile pasilla oaxaqueño used for?

It is an essential ingredient of Oaxacan mole negro alongside chilhuacle, and the star of Oaxacan pasilla salsa with roasted tomato, garlic and salt, which accompanies tlayudas, memelas, chapulin tacos and antojitos. It is also used in chichilo negro and in some traditional stews. A small amount brings deep smoke to dark moles without overloading the heat.

Where does chile pasilla oaxaqueño come from?

It is endemic to the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca, traditionally grown by the Mixe communities in municipalities such as San Pedro y San Pablo Ayutla, Totontepec and Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, at altitudes above 1,500 metres. SADER recognises it as a regional chilli with potential for a protected designation of origin. CONABIO includes it as an endemic Mexican chilli at risk of genetic erosion.