Chinicuil: what it is, history and how Mexico's red maguey worm is eaten

What is it?

The chinicuil is the red larva of a moth (Comadia redtenbacheri) that lives inside the root of the maguey. It is one of the most prized edible insects in Mexico and has been eaten since pre-Hispanic times. Its name comes from the Nahuatl chīlocuilli, which literally means "chilli worm" because of its intense red colour. Today it is eaten toasted, fried in tacos, ground into worm salt to accompany mezcal, or as a filling for hand-made tortillas.

Origin and history

Consumption of the chinicuil has been documented since the sixteenth century in Fray Bernardino de Sahagún's Historia general de las cosas de Nueva España, where it is described as a ritual food of the peoples of the Central Highlands. For the Aztecs, the chichilocuili was a symbol of the return of the souls of fallen warriors, because the larva transforms into a butterfly. Traditionally it is harvested between August and October, at the end of the rainy season, when the larvae reach their maximum size before pupating. The states of Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla and Oaxaca preserve the age-old practice of its sustainable harvest.

Characteristic ingredients

The chinicuil proper is the larva of the lepidopteran Comadia redtenbacheri, distinct from the meocuil or white worm (Aegiale hesperiaris) which also lives in the maguey but on the leaves, not the root. It measures between 4 and 6 cm and has a characteristic red or pinkish colour due to the pigments of the host plant. To cook it, it is typically accompanied with salt, lime, chile piquín and tortillas made from nixtamalised maize. In worm salt it is ground together with coarse sea salt and dried chile de árbol.

Cultural significance

The chinicuil is one of the pre-Hispanic foods that best survived the Spanish Conquest and retains a central role in the gastronomic identity of central Mexico. It provides between 60 and 75% high-quality protein and essential amino acids such as lysine and tryptophan, according to studies by the UANL. Its harvest sustains rural economies in Otomi and Nahua communities of Hidalgo and Tlaxcala. The FAO highlights it as an example of traditional entomophagy with potential for food security in the twenty-first century, although overexploitation has placed it in a vulnerable situation.

Frequently asked questions

Is the chinicuil a worm or an insect?

It is the larva (caterpillar) of a moth in the Cossidae family. When it completes its metamorphosis it becomes a nocturnal moth. Although it is called a worm, biologically it is an insect in its larval phase.

What does the chinicuil taste like?

It has an earthy, slightly smoky flavour with notes of bark and agave. Toasted, it resembles a cross between chicharrón and walnut. It is the base of the famous worm salt served alongside mezcal.

Is it legal and safe to eat chinicuiles?

Yes. Its consumption is fully regulated in Mexico and it is part of the traditional recipe collection recognised by UNESCO. It is sold in markets such as San Juan in Mexico City and is exported dehydrated to Europe.

What is the difference between chinicuil and meocuil?

The chinicuil is red and lives in the root of the maguey; the meocuil is white and lives in the leaves. Both are edible, but the chinicuil is more sought after for its more intense flavour.