Chipilin: the Chiapas herb of tamales and broths

What is it?

Chipilin (Crotalaria longirostrata) is an aromatic herb of south-eastern Mexico, particularly the state of Chiapas, whose small green lobed leaves are used as a vegetable and seasoning. It has a mild, slightly earthy herbal flavour, like a cross between chard, spinach and green tea with a hint of fresh herb. It belongs to the Fabaceae family (legumes). It is grown and grows wild in Chiapas, Oaxaca, Tabasco and tropical areas of Central America, where it is a fundamental herb in everyday cooking. It is an essential ingredient in chipilin tamales, chipilin broth with masa dumplings, rice with chipilin and various Chiapas stews. It is considered one of the herbs that define Chiapas and forms an inseparable part of the Tsotsil, Tseltal, Zoque and mestizo repertoire of the state.

Origin and history

Chipilin has a Mesoamerican origin and was eaten by the Chiapas Maya peoples, Zoques and other groups of south-eastern Mexico and Central America from before the conquest. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'chipilli'. Crotalaria longirostrata belongs to the legume family; legumes were a key component of the traditional milpa system, where they fixed nitrogen in the soil and provided protein for the diet. CONABIO documents its presence as a wild and cultivated plant in family gardens of the south-east. Larousse Cocina lists it as an essential herb of the Chiapas repertoire. It is also common in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua, where it is used in a similar way in tamales and soups. Although some legumes contain alkaloids in their seeds (the case of some Crotalaria), the tender leaves of Crotalaria longirostrata are safe for traditional culinary consumption and have been used for centuries without reports of toxicity when eaten cooked.

Characteristic ingredients

The chipilin plant is a perennial shrub or sub-shrub 1 to 2 metres tall, with light-green trifoliate leaves, small yellow flowers in racemes and pods containing seeds. The leaves and tender shoots are harvested, leaving the seeds, which may contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids. The leaves contain protein, calcium, iron, phosphorus, vitamins A and C, folic acid and fibre; their nutritional profile makes them a highly valuable vegetable. Traditionally it is eaten cooked, which neutralises possible antinutritional compounds. In Chiapas cooking it is added to the dough of chipilin tamales (sometimes with fresh cheese), used to perfume chicken or beef broth with masa dumplings, added to rice while it cooks, and prepared sauteed as a side. Its flavour is delicate and pairs especially well with maize dough, beans, cheese and clear broths. The fresh leaves are ideal, although it is also sold dried to keep it out of season.

Cultural significance

Chipilin is a gastronomic symbol of Chiapas and an identity-defining ingredient for Chiapanecos abroad, especially in migration to the United States and to other states of the country. Chipilin tamales, commonly with fresh cheese or with beans, are one of the emblematic dishes of the state and appear at family celebrations and religious festivities. Chipilin broth with masa dumplings is a much-loved everyday preparation. The plant is also recognised in Tabasco and Oaxaca cooking, where it appears in regional tamales with variations. It is part of the gastronomic heritage of Chiapas alongside cochito, tascalates, chipilin with dumplings and tamal juacane. SADER recognises chipilin as part of the highly nutritious quelites. Traditional Mexican cuisine, declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, includes the regional Chiapas cuisines in which chipilin occupies a central place. Its consumption preserves an affective and communal component.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between chipilin and hierba mora?

They are very different species. Chipilin (Crotalaria longirostrata) is a legume with light-green trifoliate leaves and a mild herbal flavour. Hierba mora (Solanum americanum) is a nightshade with oval dark-green leaves, small black berries and a more bitter flavour. Both are edible quelites but they belong to distinct botanical families and are used in different dishes.

What does chipilin taste like?

Chipilin has a mild, delicate, slightly earthy herbal flavour that has been described as a cross between chard, young spinach and green tea with a hint of fresh herb. It is neither spicy nor bitter, which makes it very versatile. Its flavour pairs especially well with maize dough, fresh cheese, black beans and clear chicken or beef broths.

How is chipilin used in cooking?

Always cooked: the leaves are mixed into the dough of Chiapas tamales (often with cheese); added to chicken or beef broth to make chipilin broth with masa dumplings; cooked together with rice to make rice with chipilin; and sauteed as a side dish. The fresh leaves are preferred, although it is also sold dried out of season.

Where does chipilin come from?

Chipilin is native to Mesoamerica, particularly south-eastern Mexico and Central America. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'chipilli'. The Maya, Zoque and other Chiapas peoples ate it from before the conquest as part of the milpa system. Today it is grown mainly in Chiapas, Oaxaca and Tabasco, as well as Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras, where it is the base of several recipe traditions.