Chipilín: what it is, taste and uses in tamales

What is it?

Chipilín (Crotalaria longirostrata) is an aromatic herb of south-east Mexico, particularly the state of Chiapas, whose small green lobed leaves are used as a vegetable and seasoning. It has a mild herbal flavour, slightly earthy, similar to a mixture of chard, spinach and green tea with a touch of fresh herb. It belongs to the Fabaceae (legume) family. It is cultivated and grows wild in Chiapas, Oaxaca, Tabasco and the tropical areas of Central America, where it is a fundamental herb in everyday cooking. It is an essential ingredient of chipilín tamales, chipilín broth with little dough balls, rice with chipilín and various Chiapas stews. It is considered one of the herbs emblematic of Chiapas and forms an inseparable part of the Tsotsil, Tseltal, Zoque and mestizo recipe book of the state.

Origin and history

Chipilín is of Mesoamerican origin and was consumed by the Chiapas Maya peoples, the Zoque and other groups of south-east Mexico and Central America from before the conquest. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'chipilli'. Crotalaria longirostrata belongs to the legume family; legumes were a key component of the traditional milpa system, where they fixed nitrogen in the soil and provided protein to the diet. CONABIO documents its presence as a wild and cultivated plant in the family orchards of the south-east. Larousse Cocina records it as an essential herb of the Chiapas recipe book. It is also common in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua, where it is used similarly in tamales and soups. Although some legumes contain alkaloids in their seeds (the case of some Crotalaria), the tender leaves of Crotalaria longirostrata are safe for traditional culinary consumption and have been used for centuries with no reports of toxicity when eaten cooked.

Characteristic ingredients

The chipilín plant is a perennial shrub or subshrub 1 to 2 metres tall, with light green trifoliate leaves, small yellow flowers in clusters and pods containing seeds. The leaves and tender shoots are harvested, leaving the seeds, which can contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids. The leaves contain protein, calcium, iron, phosphorus, vitamins A and C, folic acid and fibre; their nutritional profile makes them a very valuable vegetable. Traditionally it is eaten cooked, which neutralises possible anti-nutritional compounds. In Chiapas cuisine it is incorporated into the dough of chipilín tamales (sometimes with fresh cheese), used to perfume chicken or beef broth with dough balls, added to rice while it cooks, and prepared sautéed as a side dish. Its flavour is delicate and pairs especially well with maize dough, beans, cheese and clear broths. Fresh leaves are ideal, although it is also sold dried to keep out of season.

Cultural significance

Chipilín is a gastronomic symbol of Chiapas and an identity ingredient for Chiapanecos abroad, especially in migration to the United States and other states of the country. Chipilín tamales, commonly with fresh cheese or beans, are one of the emblematic dishes of the state and appear at family celebrations and religious festivities. Chipilín broth with dough balls is a much-appreciated everyday preparation. The plant is also recognised in Tabasco and Oaxaca cuisine, where it appears in regional tamales with variations. It forms part of the gastronomic heritage of Chiapas alongside cochito, tascalates, chipilines con bolitas and the juacané tamal. SADER recognises chipilín as one of the quelites with high nutritional value. Traditional Mexican cuisine, declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, includes the regional Chiapas cuisines where chipilín occupies a central place. Its consumption retains an affective and communal component.

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