Cilantro criollo: what it is, taste and uses

What is it?

Cilantro criollo, also known as cilantro cimarrón, perejil de monte or chadon beni, is an aromatic herb of south-east Mexico and the Caribbean, distinct from common coriander. It belongs to the Apiaceae family and has elongated toothed leaves in a basal rosette, with soft spiny edges and an aroma very similar to common coriander but more intense, pungent and persistent. It is cultivated and grows wild in Veracruz, Tabasco, Chiapas, Yucatán, Campeche and Quintana Roo, where it forms part of the cuisine of the humid tropics. It is used in salsas, ceviches, soups (especially free-range hen broth), seafood dishes, southern tamales and Afro-mestizo preparations. Its advantage over common coriander (Coriandrum sativum) is that it keeps its aroma during prolonged cooking, which makes it ideal for broths and long-simmered dishes. In the Caribbean (Trinidad, Puerto Rico, Cuba) it is called culantro or chadon beni.

Origin and history

Cilantro criollo (Eryngium foetidum) has tropical American origins, possibly from the Caribbean and Central America, naturalised in south-east Mexico since ancient times. The Mesoamerican peoples of the tropics (Maya, Zoque, Popoluca, Totonac) gathered it wild and used it as a seasoning. CONABIO Enciclovida documents its presence in humid forests and disturbed soils of south-east Mexico. Larousse Cocina records it as cilantro cimarrón or cilantro de monte, an aromatic herb of the south-east. Unlike common coriander, which is native to the Mediterranean and was brought by the Spanish, cilantro criollo is native to the New World, which paradoxically makes it more Mexican despite its name. Its use in the Caribbean and Central America is very widespread under the name culantro (not to be confused with Hispanic coriander). In the cuisine of Veracruz and Tabasco it has been maintained as part of peasant and riverside fishing preparations. In the Maya south-east it forms part of the criollo and Campeche cuisine, where it replaces or complements common coriander.

Characteristic ingredients

Cilantro criollo is a perennial plant in a basal rosette, 20-40 cm tall, with elongated toothed bright-green lance-shaped leaves, and a central flowering stalk with spiny heads of small white or greenish flowers. It grows in moist shaded forest soils, backyards and field edges in warm-humid climates. Its leaves contain essential oils with eryngial (E-2-dodecenal) and other aldehydes similar to those of common coriander but in higher concentrations, which explains its more intense aroma. It also provides vitamins A, B, C, iron, calcium and antioxidants. It is always used fresh, finely chopped or whole depending on the preparation. Unlike common coriander, which loses aroma with prolonged cooking, cilantro criollo tolerates cooking very well and keeps its perfume, which makes it especially suitable for hen broths, long-simmered seafood dishes, beans and mojos. The younger, central leaves are the most tender; the outer ones may have a slightly more bitter touch. It is kept in water or refrigerated in a closed bag for up to a week.

Cultural significance

Cilantro criollo is an aromatic marker of southern and Caribbean Mexican cuisine, particularly in Veracruz, Tabasco, Chiapas and the Yucatán Peninsula. It appears in emblematic preparations such as free-range hen broth, fish and prawn ceviches, seafood dishes in sauce, black beans with lard, coastal tamales with masa and meat, and raw Afro-mestizo salsas. Its use allows aromatic accents that common coriander cannot maintain after prolonged cooking. Larousse Cocina records it as cilantro cimarrón, part of the Mexican tropical recipe book. CONABIO documents its ethnobotanical value. Although it has no designation of origin, it is present in traditional Mexican cuisine declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, particularly in the regional cuisines of the Gulf and the Maya peninsula. Its cultivation and gathering sustain family economies in coastal and rural towns of the south-east. It is a culinary bridge with Caribbean cuisine: it shares practically identical culinary uses with Cuba, Puerto Rico and Trinidad, which makes it a herb of the wider gastronomic Caribbean region.

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