Nayarit cuisine: griddled fish, tlaxtihuilli and Cora-Huichol heritage

What is it?

Nayarit cuisine is the gastronomic tradition of the state of Nayarit, in western Mexico on the Pacific coast, and is distinguished by the unique coexistence of riverside fishing, the mestizo cuisine of the plains and the ritual traditions of the Cora (Náayeri) and Huichol (Wixárika) peoples of the sierra. Its emblematic dishes are griddled fish over embers, tlaxtihuilli (Huichol prawn broth with maize dough), Nayarit oyster sopes, bearded prawn tamales, Nayarit pork with bean, carp birria and Nayarit-style ceviche with grated coconut. Mexcaltitán, a magical island considered by some to be the mythical Aztlán, is the cradle of griddled fish. It is consumed daily at seafood houses in San Blas and Tepic, reaching its splendour during the Holy Week festivities and the annual Huichol pilgrimages.

Origin and history

Nayarit cuisine inherits from the Cora, Huichol, Tepehuan and Nahua peoples, ancestral farmers and fishermen of the Mexican Pacific and the Sierra del Nayar. The region was part of Jalisco until 1917, when it became established as an independent state. Mexcaltitán, in the Santiago Ixcuintla lagoon, is considered by some researchers to be Aztlán, the mythical place of origin of the Aztecs according to historical legend. Griddled fish was born on this island, a pre-Hispanic technique of cooking the whole opened fish on embers with mangrove firewood, according to Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido. The Spanish conquest and the founding of San Blas as a naval port in 1768 introduced spices, pork and pickling techniques. The tlaxtihuilli is a Huichol ritual dish of pre-Hispanic origin, prepared by women during festivities of the sacred peyote cactus. Industrial and artisanal prawn farming in the Pacific marshes of Nayarit has sustained the state's coastal economy throughout the 20th century. The Sierra del Nayar preserves Huichol and Cora culinary traditions little modified, with ceremonial use of maize, bean, squash and peyote cactus (ritual use restricted by SEMARNAT).

Characteristic ingredients

The whole fish (snapper, snook, mullet, mojarra) is split, marinated in chile guajillo, garlic and butter, and grilled over mangrove firewood, giving it a unique smoky flavour. Prawn is a star in bearded tamales (wrapped with the prawns dangling outside the tamale), tlaxtihuilli and Nayarit sopes. The Boca de Camichín and San Cristóbal oyster feeds the oyster soup and sopes. Plantain and coconut add Caribbean sweetness to ceviches and desserts. The blue maize from the Cora-Huichol sierra gives identity to tortillas, gorditas and tlaxtihuilli, a thick maize-dough soup with prawn and chilli that is a sacred Huichol dish during peyote festivities. Cora chilli is the regional chilli, similar to chile de árbol but fruitier. Nayarit pork with bean carries pork, squash and maize dough. Carp birria is a curious dish from the Nayarit highlands. Ataulfo mango, dominico banana and cacao grow on the coast. Raicilla (the state's traditional mezcal) and tejuino are local drinks.

Cultural significance

Nayarit cuisine is a cultural identity of the Mexican Pacific and a tourist driver of coasts such as Sayulita, San Blas, Rincón de Guayabitos and the Riviera Nayarit. Mexcaltitán, a Magical Town since 2001 (reactivated in 2020), is Cultural Heritage of the state for its historical-mythical value and for being the cradle of griddled fish. The Huichol (Wixárika) people have been internationally recognised for their art (beads, yarn) and their ceremonial pilgrimages to the sacred Wirikuta desert in San Luis Potosí, where they gather peyote. These pilgrimages, declared Cultural Heritage by the Mexican government, include culinary rituals. Nayarit cuisine forms part of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed by UNESCO in 2010. Festivities such as the Cora Holy Week ones (San Francisco and Jesús María) are spectacular for their cultural syncretism and ritual food. The state government promotes the Nayarit Gastronomic Route and the Riviera Nayarit as a wine and food destination with resorts and premium restaurants.

Frequently asked questions

How is griddled fish made?

A whole fish is opened along the back, marinated with a paste of chile guajillo, garlic, butter, soy sauce and spices, and placed on a 'zaranda' (metal grill) over mangrove firewood embers. It is turned several times (hence 'zarandeado') for 15-25 minutes until it browns on the outside and stays juicy inside. It is served with warm tortillas, lime, onion and Huichol salsa.

What is tlaxtihuilli?

It is a ritual thick Huichol soup made with blue maize dough, dried prawn broth, Cora or chile de árbol and water. It is prepared during peyote ceremonies in the Sierra del Nayar, especially by women. It is served hot, thick like a savoury atole, with whole dried prawns on top. It is sacred food of the Wixárika people with more than 500 years of tradition.

What does Nayarit cuisine taste like?

It has fresh, marine Pacific flavours, smoky from mangrove, with sweetness from coconut and plantain and fruity heat from Cora chilli. Huichol cuisine adds earthy notes of blue maize and dried chillies, while mestizo coastal cuisine emphasises lime, butter and garlic. It is a cheerful, festive cuisine, with abundant and economical seafood.

Where does Nayarit cuisine originate from?

It originates from the state of Nayarit, in western Mexico on the Pacific coast. It combines the heritage of the Cora (Náayeri) and Huichol (Wixárika) peoples of the sierra, the Nahua and Mexicanero peoples of the plains, and the mestizo Mexican cuisine developed in San Blas as a colonial port. Mexcaltitán, an island in the Santiago Ixcuintla lagoon, is the mythical cradle of griddled fish.