Escobeta: what it is and how it's used in Mexican cooking

What is it?

The escobeta is a wild edible mushroom that grows in temperate pine, oak and fir forests of central Mexico, belonging to the genus Ramaria, which groups together numerous species shaped like branched coral. It is also known as manita, patita de pájaro, escobita or pata de pollo in different regions, all names that allude to its characteristic coral shape with upright branches reminiscent of the bristles of a broom (escoba) or the fingers of a hand. It grows on the floor of humid forests during the rainy season, between July and October, and is traditionally gathered in states such as Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Hidalgo and Veracruz. Its colour varies from cream-yellow to salmon-pink or orange depending on the species. The escobeta is one of the most prized wild mushrooms in the rural markets of the highlands and forms part of the rich Mexican ethnomycological heritage, along with the clavito, the tecomate and the trompa de puerco.

Origin and history

The consumption of coral mushrooms of the genus Ramaria in Mexico has pre-Hispanic roots documented by modern ethnomycology. Dr Gastón Guzmán, founder of Mexican ethnomycology, recorded from the 1960s the traditional use of dozens of Ramaria species among the Nahua, Otomí, Mazahua and Purépecha peoples. Sahagún describes in the Florentine Codex various nanácatl (mushrooms) consumed by the Mexica, among which figure forms that could correspond to coral mushrooms. The diversity of regional names for the escobeta reflects the richness of the orally transmitted ethnobotanical knowledge: in Veracruz it is called patita de pájaro, in Puebla manita and in Tlaxcala escobeta or escobita. SEMARNAT and CONAFOR recognise the Ramaria species among the most economically valuable non-timber forest resources (PFNM) for the rural communities of the highlands. Research by the Institute of Ecology (INECOL) and the Colegio de Posgraduados has documented the ecological and cultural role of these mushrooms as forest commons that sustain community identities.

Characteristic ingredients

The genus Ramaria includes about 100 species in Mexico, some edible, others inedible and a few toxic, so its gathering requires expert knowledge. The most consumed edible species are Ramaria flava, R. botrytis and R. aurea. The typical shape of the mushroom is that of a coral with a basal stem from which multiple vertically arranged branches emerge, reaching between 5 and 20 centimetres in height. The colour varies from golden yellow to salmon pink, orange or cream white. The flesh is firm, white and of mild aroma. The tips become darker as they mature. In the traditional cuisine of the highlands, escobetas are roasted on the comal with salt and chilli, stewed with epazote and garlic, prepared in mixiotes with guajillo chilli, in blue-masa quesadillas or incorporated into soups with masa. In Veracruz and Hidalgo they are cooked Puebla-style with lard and onion, and in some areas they are kept dried for use outside the rainy season.

Cultural significance

The escobeta is an essential part of the rich mycological heritage of Mexico, one of the countries with the greatest diversity of edible mushrooms in the world. Its gathering is framed by the ethnomycological knowledge transmitted mainly by rural women who know the forests, the seasons and the edible species as opposed to the toxic ones. The wild mushroom fairs, such as those of Cuajimalpa, Senguio, Ozumba, Acaxochitlán and San Juan de las Huertas, are cultural and economic events that each August celebrate the start of the season and promote the consumption of the escobeta and other mushrooms. Traditional Mexican cuisine, inscribed by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, expressly includes the use of wild mushrooms as one of its identity elements. Researchers such as Roberto Garibay Orijel, Felipe Ruan-Soto and Adriana Montoya have highlighted the role of these mushrooms in the rural economy, the biodiversity of the forests and the intergenerational transmission of Mexican ethnomycological knowledge.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between escobeta and other wild mushrooms?

The escobeta is distinguished by its vertically branched coral shape, while other wild mushrooms such as the clavito or the tecomate have classic caps and stems. It belongs to the genus Ramaria and groups together several edible species. Its yellow, pink or orange colours make it very identifiable. Unlike huitlacoche, which grows on maize, the escobeta grows directly on the forest floor.

What does the escobeta taste like?

It has a mild, sweetish and slightly earthy flavour, with a fresh aroma of damp forest and a walnut undertone. The cooked texture is firm and slightly crunchy, especially at the tips. It is not bitter if it is well ripened. It combines excellently with epazote, guajillo chilli, garlic, lard and fresh cheese in the traditional preparations of the Mexican highlands.

How is the escobeta served?

It is prepared roasted on the comal with salt and lime, stewed with epazote, garlic and onion, in mixiotes wrapped with guajillo chilli, in blue-masa quesadillas, in soups with maize masa or sautéed with tomato. In Veracruz and Hidalgo it is cooked with lard and served as a side for meats. It can also be dehydrated to keep outside the season and rehydrated in soups and broths.

Where does the escobeta come from?

It is native to the temperate forests of the northern hemisphere, widely distributed in Mexico, the United States, Europe and Asia. In Mexico, the main areas of gathering are the pine-oak forests of the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Hidalgo and Veracruz, where it fruits between July and October during the rainy season. It forms mycorrhizal associations with trees such as pines, oaks and firs.