Traditional fermentation: what it is, techniques and drinks

What is it?

Traditional fermentation is one of the pillars of Mexican culinary culture, present since pre-Hispanic times in drinks such as pulque, tepache, tejuino, tesgüino, colonche and bate. Pulque, fermented from the aguamiel of the maguey, was a Mexica ceremonial drink reserved for priests and elders. Tepache, made with pineapple skins, piloncillo and spices, is a popular refreshment sold in markets. These drinks are obtained without distillation, through the action of natural yeasts and bacteria that transform sugars into mild alcohol, acids and aromatic compounds. Each represents an accumulated knowledge, a distinct terroir and a specific cultural geography of the highlands and central Mexico.

Origin and history

Pulque has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: codices such as the Mendoza and the Tudela describe it as a sacred drink of the highland peoples, associated with the goddess Mayahuel and the god Patécatl, patron of pulque. Bernardino de Sahagún in the sixteenth century described in detail its making, consumption restrictions (only five cups according to Mexica law) and its ceremonial use. After the conquest, the Spaniards legalised its production, giving rise to the great pulque haciendas of Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and Mexico during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the era of pulque's economic boom. Tepache, recorded since the colonial period, evolved as a popular drink at markets and patron-saint festivals. Tejuino, a maize-dough ferment typical of Jalisco and Nayarit, also has pre-Hispanic roots. The decline of pulque began with industrial beer at the start of the twentieth century, although today it is undergoing a renewal thanks to revaluation movements and new urban pulquerías.

Characteristic ingredients

Each traditional fermented drink requires specific ingredients and processes. Pulque comes from the aguamiel of the pulque maguey (Agave salmiana or A. mapisaga), extracted by scraping the heart of the mature plant. The aguamiel is poured into wooden vats and inoculated with already-fermented pulque (the seed), where Zymomonas mobilis and other yeasts ferment it in 24-48 hours to 4-7% alcohol. Tepache is made with the skins of ripe pineapple, piloncillo, cinnamon and clove, left to ferment for 2-3 days until a bubbly drink of 1-3% alcohol is achieved. Tejuino ferments cooked maize dough with piloncillo and is served with lime and ice. Rarámuri tesgüino, a ceremonial drink, ferments germinated maize for several days. Traditional fermentation does not use commercial cultures: it depends on the environmental microbes of the vessel and the surroundings.

Cultural significance

Traditional fermented drinks are a living cultural heritage of Mexico. Pulque had and retains a sacred value among the Nahua, Otomí and Mazahua peoples of the highlands; it is linked to rites of passage, fertility and offerings. Its consumption is documented as the Cultural Heritage of the State of Tlaxcala and is part of traditional Mexican cuisine recognised by UNESCO in 2010. The pulquerías, neighbourhood houses where pulque cured with fruits was sold, were social centres of Mexico City until the mid-twentieth century, and today they are re-emerging as cultural spaces. Tepache, sold in clay cantaritos in markets across the country, is an everyday, democratic drink. Tesgüino remains central to Rarámuri ceremonies of the Sierra Tarahumara. The revaluation of pulque and other drinks has generated employment in rural areas and produced a revival of the traditional pulque haciendas.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between pulque and tepache?

Pulque comes from the aguamiel of the maguey and has a ceremonial pre-Hispanic origin, with a milky, viscous flavour and sour notes; it reaches 4-7% alcohol. Tepache is made with pineapple skins, piloncillo and spices, is bubbly, sweet with a slight acidity and usually has only 1-3% alcohol. Pulque is associated with the highlands, tepache is a national popular drink.

What does pulque taste like?

Natural pulque (white) has a sour-milky flavour with vegetal notes and slight sweetness, a viscous texture owing to the slime of the maguey. Cured pulques are mixed with fruits (mango, strawberry, guava), oats or celery, softening the original flavour. For many palates it is an acquired taste, special and deeply linked to the maguey.

How is traditional tepache served?

It is served well chilled in clay cantaritos or large glasses, sometimes with ice. In some regions a little beer is added to increase the fizz, or it is accompanied with salt and chilli powder. It is a typical drink of tianguis, patron-saint fairs and markets, where it is sold by the jug or litre.

Where does pulque come from?

Pulque originates in the central highlands of Mexico, with archaeological evidence of more than 2,000 years. Its production is concentrated in Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico, Puebla and Querétaro, where the semi-arid climate favours the pulque maguey. Hidalgo is today the largest producer with a protected cultural designation.