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Traditional fermentation: tepache, pulque and pre-Hispanic drinks

What is it?

Traditional fermentation is one of the pillars of Mexican culinary culture, present since pre-Hispanic times in drinks such as pulque, tepache, tejuino, tesguino, colonche and bate. Pulque, fermented from the aguamiel of the maguey, was a Mexica ceremonial drink reserved for priests and elders. Tepache, made with pineapple peels, piloncillo and spices, is a popular soft drink sold in markets. These drinks are obtained without distillation, through the action of natural yeasts and bacteria that transform sugars into mild alcohol, acids and aromatic compounds. Each represents accumulated knowledge, a distinct terroir and a specific cultural geography of the altiplano and central Mexico.

Origin and history

Pulque has a documented pre-Hispanic origin: codices such as the Mendocino and Tudela describe it as a sacred drink of the peoples of the altiplano, associated with the goddess Mayahuel and the god Patecatl, patron of pulque. Bernardino de Sahagun in the 16th century described in detail its production, restrictions on consumption (only five cups according to Mexica law) and its ceremonial use. After the conquest, the Spanish legalised its production, giving rise to the great pulque haciendas of Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and the State of Mexico during the 18th and 19th centuries, the heyday of pulque's economic boom. Tepache, recorded since the colonial era, evolved as a popular drink in markets and patronal festivities. Tejuino, a maize masa ferment typical of Jalisco and Nayarit, also has pre-Hispanic roots. The decline of pulque began with industrial beer in the early 20th century, although today it is experiencing a revival thanks to movements of revaluation and new urban pulquerias.

Characteristic ingredients

Each traditional fermented drink requires specific ingredients and processes. Pulque starts from the aguamiel of the pulque maguey (Agave salmiana or A. mapisaga), extracted by scraping the heart of the mature plant. The aguamiel is poured into wooden vats and inoculated with already fermented pulque (seed), where Zymomonas mobilis and other yeasts ferment it in 24 to 48 hours up to 4-7% alcohol. Tepache is made with ripe pineapple peels, piloncillo, cinnamon and clove left to ferment 2 to 3 days until obtaining a bubbly drink of 1 to 3% alcohol. Tejuino ferments masa of cooked maize with piloncillo and is served with lime and sorbet. Raramuri tesguino, ceremonial, ferments germinated maize for several days. Traditional fermentation does not use commercial cultures: it depends on environmental microbes from the container and surroundings.

Cultural significance

Traditional fermented drinks are living cultural heritage of Mexico. Pulque had and retains sacred value among the Nahua, Otomi and Mazahua peoples of the altiplano; it is linked to rituals of passage, fertility and offerings. Its consumption is documented as Cultural Heritage of the State of Tlaxcala and forms part of the traditional Mexican cuisine recognised by UNESCO in 2010. Pulquerias, neighbourhood houses where pulque cured with fruits was sold, were social centres of Mexico City until the mid-20th century, and today they re-emerge as cultural spaces. Tepache, sold in clay jugs in markets all over the country, is an everyday and democratic drink. Tesguino remains central to Raramuri ceremonies in the Sierra Tarahumara. The revaluation of pulque and other drinks has generated employment in rural areas and produced a renaissance of traditional pulque haciendas.

Related recipes

Now that you know what it is, try cooking it at home with our step-by-step recipes:

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Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between pulque and tepache?
Pulque comes from the aguamiel of the maguey and has a pre-Hispanic ceremonial origin, with a milky, viscous flavour and acidic notes; it reaches 4-7% alcohol. Tepache is made with pineapple peels, piloncillo and spices, is bubbly, sweet with mild acidity and usually has only 1-3% alcohol. Pulque is associated with the altiplano, tepache is a popular national drink.
What does pulque taste like?
Natural pulque (white) has an acidic-milky flavour with vegetable notes and mild sweetness, viscous texture due to the maguey sap. Curados pulques are mixed with fruits (mango, strawberry, guava), oats or celery, softening the original flavour. For many palates it is an acquired taste, special and deeply linked to the maguey.
How is traditional tepache served?
It is served well chilled in clay jugs or large glasses, sometimes with ice. In some regions a little beer is added to increase fizz, or it is accompanied with salt and chilli powder. It is a typical drink of tianguis, patronal fairs and markets, where it is sold by jugs or litres.
Where is pulque from?
Pulque originates from the central altiplano of Mexico, with archaeological evidence of more than 2,000 years. Its production is concentrated in Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico, Puebla and Queretaro, where the semi-arid climate favours the pulque maguey. Hidalgo is today the largest producer with protected cultural designation.

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