Hoja santa: what it is, taste, uses and substitutes

What is it?

Hoja santa (Piper auritum), also known as acuyo in Veracruz and Tabasco, hierbasanta in Oaxaca and momo in Chiapas, is an aromatic herb of south-east Mexico. Its leaves are large (up to 30 cm), heart-shaped, dark green and glossy, with a complex aroma reminiscent of anise, pepper, rue and liquorice. It is cultivated and grows wild in Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Tabasco, Puebla and the Yucatán Peninsula. It is essential in some of the most emblematic dishes of south-east Mexico: hoja santa and green mole tamales, fish in hoja santa sauce, the green moles of Oaxaca and Veracruz, quesadillas, chicken broths, crab chilpachole and various regional tamales. Its unmistakable flavour makes it one of the herbs most emblematic of the cuisine of southern Mexico.

Origin and history

Hoja santa is of Mesoamerican origin and was used by the Nahua, Totonac, Maya and Zapotec since pre-Hispanic times. Its name (literally 'holy leaf') comes from a colonial legend according to which the Virgin Mary washed the Infant Jesus's swaddling clothes on the plant, granting it its 'holy' character. In Nahuatl it was called 'tlanepa' and the Nahua used it as a seasoning, medicinal plant and ritual herb. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún documented its use among the peoples of the Gulf. The species Piper auritum belongs to the Piperaceae family (the same as pepper) and is native to southern Mexico and Central America. UNAM's Digital Library of Traditional Mexican Medicine documents it as a medicinal plant used for stomach pains, childbirth, fright and respiratory problems. Larousse Cocina records it as an essential herb of Veracruz and Oaxaca cuisine. It is one of the pre-Hispanic seasonings that remain fully current in contemporary Mexican cuisine.

Characteristic ingredients

Hoja santa comes from a perennial shrub that can reach 3-5 metres in height, with jointed stems, large heart-shaped leaves and long candle-shaped white inflorescences. The leaves are used fresh to wrap foods (fish, chicken, tamales) or chopped as an ingredient. They contain safrole, a characteristic aromatic compound also present in sassafras; for this reason moderate consumption is recommended. They also provide essential oils with eugenol, myrcene and various terpenes. The flavour is reminiscent of anise and pepper, with medicinal notes and a hint of sassafras. In Veracruz cuisine it is used to wrap baked fish or stuffed tamales; in Oaxaca it is a fundamental ingredient of green mole alongside epazote and fresh hoja santa; in Chiapas it is called momo and used in tamales and broths. The tender leaves are milder; the mature ones intensify the flavour considerably. They are kept refrigerated in a bag or dried, although they lose much of their aroma when dried.

Cultural significance

Hoja santa is one of the distinctive aromas of the cuisine of south-east and Gulf Mexico, deeply linked to the culinary identity of Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas and Tabasco. Veracruz cuisine uses it to wrap baked tilapia; in Oaxaca it is indispensable in green mole with chayote, green bean and pork. It forms part of jarocha, sotaventina and papaloapan cuisine and of the Afro-mestizo cuisine of the Gulf. The plant also has ritual importance: in some communities of the south-east it is used in cleansings, ritual baths and midwifery ceremonies. UNAM's Library of Traditional Medicine documents its therapeutic uses for treating indigestion, fright, post-partum pains and respiratory problems. Although it has no denomination of origin, it is recognised as an essential herb of the gastronomic heritage of Oaxaca, declared by UNESCO Intangible Heritage alongside traditional Mexican cuisine in 2010. Its unique aromatic profile makes it impossible to substitute in the regional recipe book.

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