Hoja santa: an aromatic herb of south-eastern Mexico

What is it?

Hoja santa (Piper auritum), also known as acuyo in Veracruz and Tabasco, hierbasanta in Oaxaca and momo in Chiapas, is an aromatic herb of south-eastern Mexico. Its leaves are large (up to 30 cm), heart-shaped, dark green and glossy, with a complex aroma reminiscent of anise, pepper, rue and liquorice. It is grown and grows wild in Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Tabasco, Puebla and the Yucatan Peninsula. It is essential in some of the most emblematic dishes of south-eastern Mexico: hoja santa and green mole tamales, fish in hoja santa sauce, the green moles of Oaxaca and Veracruz, quesadillas, chicken broths, crab chilpachole and various regional tamales. Its unmistakable flavour makes it one of the herbs most emblematic of southern Mexican cooking.

Origin and history

Hoja santa has a Mesoamerican origin and was used by Nahuas, Totonacs, Maya and Zapotec peoples since pre-Hispanic times. Its name comes from a colonial legend according to which the Virgin Mary washed the swaddling clothes of the infant Jesus over the plant, giving it its 'holy' character. In Nahuatl it was called 'tlanepa' and the Nahuas used it as a seasoning, a medicinal plant and a ritual herb. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún documented its use among the peoples of the Gulf. The species Piper auritum belongs to the Piperaceae family (the same as black pepper) and is native to southern Mexico and Central America. The UNAM Digital Library of Mexican Traditional Medicine documents it as a medicinal plant used for stomach pain, childbirth, frights and respiratory complaints. Larousse Cocina lists it as an essential herb of Veracruz and Oaxaca cooking. It is one of the pre-Hispanic seasonings that remain in full use in contemporary Mexican cooking.

Characteristic ingredients

Hoja santa comes from a perennial shrub that can reach 3-5 metres in height, with jointed stems, large heart-shaped leaves and long candle-shaped white inflorescences. The leaves are used fresh to wrap food (fish, chicken, tamales) or chopped as an ingredient. They contain safrole, a characteristic aromatic compound also present in sassafras; for this reason moderate consumption is recommended. They also provide essential oils with eugenol, myrcene and various terpenes. The flavour recalls anise and pepper, with medicinal notes and a hint of sassafras. In Veracruz cooking it is used to wrap baked fish or filled tamales; in Oaxaca it is a fundamental ingredient of green mole alongside epazote and fresh hoja santa; in Chiapas it is called momo and is used in tamales and broths. The tender leaves are milder; the mature ones notably intensify the flavour. They are kept refrigerated in a bag or dried, although they lose much of their aroma when dried.

Cultural significance

Hoja santa is one of the distinctive aromas of south-eastern and Gulf of Mexico cooking, deeply tied to the culinary identity of Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas and Tabasco. Veracruz cooking uses it to wrap baked mojarra; in Oaxaca it is indispensable in green mole with chayote, green beans and pork. It is part of jarocha, sotaventina and papaloapense cooking and of the Afro-mestizo cuisine of the Gulf. The plant also has ritual importance: in some south-eastern communities it is used in cleansings, ritual baths and midwifery ceremonies. The UNAM Library of Traditional Medicine documents its therapeutic uses to treat indigestion, frights, postpartum pain and respiratory problems. Although it does not have a protected designation of origin, it is recognised as an essential herb of the gastronomic heritage of Oaxaca, which UNESCO declared Intangible Cultural Heritage alongside traditional Mexican cuisine in 2010. Its unique aromatic profile makes it an irreplaceable element of the regional repertoire.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between hoja santa and acuyo?

Hoja santa and acuyo are different names for the same plant: Piper auritum. 'Hoja santa' is used mainly in Oaxaca, Chiapas (where it is also called momo) and central Mexico. 'Acuyo' is the traditional name in Veracruz and Tabasco. Although there are minimal regional differences in the cultivated varieties, botanically they are the same species with an identical culinary function.

What does hoja santa taste like?

Hoja santa has a complex aromatic flavour that combines notes of anise, pepper, liquorice, sassafras and a slightly medicinal touch. It is very powerful and unmistakable, so it defines the dishes in which it is used. It has a sweet, fresh finish while bringing herbal body to salsas, moles, broths and tamales of south-eastern Mexico.

How is hoja santa used in cooking?

It is used fresh: the large leaves wrap fish, chicken and tamales before baking or steaming; chopped, it is added to green moles, sauces and broths. It is essential in Oaxacan green mole, hoja santa tamales, crab chilpachole and Veracruz-style fish. It is added early in cooking to extract its aroma, or cooked inside the wrapping to infuse the dish.

Where does hoja santa come from?

Hoja santa is native to southern Mexico and Central America. Sahagún documented it among the Nahuas under the name 'tlanepa'. The Maya used it as momo and the peoples of the Gulf called it acuyo. Today it grows wild and cultivated in Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Tabasco, Puebla and the Yucatan Peninsula, where it remains an essential aromatic herb of the regional repertoire.