Huauzontles: the pre-Hispanic quelite of inflorescences

What is it?

Huauzontles (Chenopodium berlandieri subsp. nuttalliae) are a pre-Hispanic quelite of the Mexican altiplano made up of the young inflorescences with flowers and immature seeds of a plant of the Amaranthaceae family, a close relative of amaranth and quinoa. They are bouquet-shaped or in vertical panicles, green with small seeds, with a delicate flavour that recalls broccoli and spinach with earthy notes. They are grown in the State of Mexico (especially the Tlaxcala-State of Mexico border), Tlaxcala, Puebla and Morelos, mainly between July and November. Their most emblematic preparation is huauzontle fritters battered in egg and bathed in tomato sauce, frequently filled with fresh or Oaxaca cheese. They also appear in quesadillas, soups and stews. Consumption is concentrated in central Mexico, with ritual and symbolic presence during Lent.

Origin and history

Huauzontles have a pre-Hispanic origin and are one of the oldest domesticated crops of Mesoamerica. The species Chenopodium berlandieri subsp. nuttalliae was domesticated thousands of years ago in the Mexican altiplano. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún recorded them in the Florentine Codex under the Nahuatl name 'huauhtli' or 'huauhquilitl' (hair-herb plant), and the Nahua, Tlaxcalan and Mexica peoples ate them as a vegetable, in addition to using the seeds as a pseudocereal similar to amaranth. CONABIO and SADER document huauzontle as one of the pre-Hispanic crops still commercially produced today, alongside amaranth, chia and maize. Larousse Cocina lists it as an essential ingredient of the traditional repertoire. During the conquest, the cultivation of huauzontle, amaranth and chia was discouraged by the friars because the seeds were used in pre-Hispanic rituals; however, the use of huauzontle as a vegetable survived in family kitchens and was incorporated into the Catholic Lenten repertoire as a meatless dish.

Characteristic ingredients

The huauzontle plant is annual, up to 2 metres tall, with erect reddish or green stems, alternate lance-shaped leaves and long terminal inflorescences that produce thousands of seeds. The tender flowering branches with immature seeds are the culinary huauzontle; when ripe, the seeds are harvested as a pseudocereal with nutritional properties similar to amaranth and quinoa. They provide plant proteins of high biological value, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, vitamins A and C, folic acid and fibre. Their nutritional profile rivals that of quinoa. To prepare them as fritters, the branches are boiled until the seeds and tender stems soften, the bouquets are pressed into bunches, filled with fresh or Oaxaca cheese, dipped in stiffly beaten egg, fried and bathed in tomato sauce with onion, garlic and spices. The woody stems are not eaten. They are sold in tied bunches in season in markets such as Cholula, San Pedro Atocpan, Texcoco and Tlaxcala. There are local variants with intense red or green hues.

Cultural significance

Huauzontles are one of the most symbolic quelites of central Mexico and an emblematic dish of Mexican Catholic Lent, when they replace meat on family tables. Consumption is concentrated in the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Mexico City, where the fritters in tomato sauce are part of the everyday home and fonda repertoire. SADER recognises huauzontle as a strategic pre-Hispanic crop for agricultural diversification and food security. Larousse Cocina and Mexico Desconocido list them as one of the quintessential Mexican quelites. They form part of traditional Mexican cuisine declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. Their cultivation sustains the family economies of small producers on the altiplano, particularly in the Valley of Teotihuacan and Tlaxcala. Eating huauzontles is an act of cultural continuity: eating the same plant that the peoples of the altiplano grew before contact with Europe. They have a very strong identity value for the communities of central Mexico.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between huauzontle and amaranth?

They are sister plants of the Amaranthaceae family but distinct species. Huauzontle is Chenopodium berlandieri subsp. nuttalliae and is eaten mainly as a vegetable (young inflorescences); amaranth is of the genus Amaranthus (several species) and is eaten above all for its seeds for alegrias and as tender leaves (quintoniles). Huauzontle is taxonomically closer to quinoa than to amaranth.

What do huauzontles taste like?

They have a delicate, vegetal flavour, similar to broccoli and spinach, with earthy notes and a subtle herbal hint. The immature seeds add a slightly crunchy texture. They are neither bitter nor tart. Combined with melted fresh cheese, battered egg and sweet-tart tomato sauce, the flavour of huauzontle is extraordinarily balanced and substantial.

How are huauzontles prepared?

The classic preparation is fritters: the branches are boiled until soft, bunches are formed, filled with fresh or Oaxaca cheese, battered in stiffly beaten egg, fried and bathed in tomato sauce with onion and garlic. They are also eaten sauteed with epazote, in soups, in quesadillas or as a filling for stuffed chillies. They are an emblematic Lenten dish.

Where do huauzontles come from?

They are native to the Mexican altiplano, where they were domesticated thousands of years ago. Sahagún recorded them in the Florentine Codex as 'huauhtli'. Today they are grown mainly in the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla and Morelos. Their consumption is concentrated in central Mexico, particularly during Lent. SADER recognises them as a strategic pre-Hispanic crop of Mexican agrobiodiversity.