Itacates: what they are, how they are made and what to eat them with

What is it?

Itacates are Mexican antojitos in the shape of a thick triangle, made from nixtamalised dough shaped by hand and cooked on a comal until golden on both sides. They are typical of the states of Morelos, Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico, Puebla and parts of Mexico City, where they are eaten in markets, fondas and family dining rooms. Unlike tetelas (which enclose a filling), itacates are solid pieces of dough with no filling inside, seasoned with salt or lard and served as an accompaniment to stews: they are split open down the middle and filled on the spot with beans, cheese, requesón, nopales, chicharrón in salsa or whatever is on offer. The word itacate comes from the Nahuatl itacatl, meaning a provision of food or victuals for the road, referring to the traditional use of these triangles as a portable lunch for farm labourers and workers.

Origin and history

Itacates are a product of pre-Hispanic and colonial Mexican cooking, particularly of the centre of the country. Their name comes from the Nahuatl itacatl (provision, victuals) and reflects their original function: durable, portable food for farm workers, travellers and pilgrims. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún records that the Mexica carried itacates on their journeys, referring both to food in general (the broad sense) and to folded or thick tortillas (the specific sense). Over time, in regions such as Morelos, Tlaxcala and the State of Mexico, the term itacate became specifically associated with these thick triangles of dough. Larousse Cocina and the Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana document Morelos-style itacates as a heritage antojito: they have appeared in the markets of Cuernavaca, Yautepec, Tepoztlán and other municipalities since colonial times. In Tlaxcala, itacates are traditionally smaller and are served with asado, mole or chorizo. Traditional cooks keep the know-how alive, passed down from generation to generation among peasant and artisan women.

Characteristic ingredients

Making itacates starts with fresh nixtamalised dough of white, yellow or blue maize (depending on region and availability). Pork lard, salt and sometimes a little beef dripping or asiento are added for flavour; the dough is worked well until firm and manageable. The triangles are shaped by hand, not pressed in a tortilla press: the distinctive thickness (1.5-2.5 cm) is achieved by moulding with the palms. Some Morelos itacates measure 10-15 cm per side; the Tlaxcalan ones tend to be smaller (6-8 cm). They are cooked on a hot comal (preferably clay or cast iron) on both sides for 8-12 minutes until the dough is golden, lightly crisp outside and soft within. Unlike tetelas, they are not filled before cooking; the filling is added at the moment of eating: the itacate is split open like a bread roll and filled with beans, fresh cheese, grilled nopales, requesón, chicharrón in salsa, or green or red salsa, according to preference. Each region has its characteristic fillings: in Morelos, beans and requesón; in Tlaxcala, chorizo and green salsa.

Cultural significance

Itacates are a gastronomic symbol of Morelos and Tlaxcala and form part of traditional Mexican cuisine, recognised by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In markets such as those of Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán and Yautepec (Morelos) and in the market of the city of Tlaxcala, traditional cooks prepare fresh itacates on clay comales and sell them by the piece or by the portion to customers who eat them on the spot. They are the everyday food of builders, farm workers, students and office workers: portable, sustaining and inexpensive. Morelos-style itacates have become a tourist dish in Tepoztlán and Cuernavaca, where restaurants and fondas present them as an icon of the state's cuisine. In Tlaxcala, itacates with asado or green chorizo form part of the typical menu offered at patron saint festivities and at weekends. The word itacate has outgrown the dish itself: in colloquial Mexican Spanish, "darle el itacate" means to pack food for someone to take away, perpetuating its original pre-Hispanic sense of portable victuals.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an itacate and a tetela?

The itacate is a solid triangle of thick dough (1.5-2.5 cm) with no filling inside; it is split open and filled at the moment of eating. The tetela is thinner (like a tortilla) with a filling sealed inside (beans, cheese, asiento) cooked together with the dough. The itacate is typical of Morelos and Tlaxcala; the tetela of Puebla and Oaxaca. They share the triangular shape but are distinct antojitos.

What do itacates taste like?

They taste of nixtamalised maize toasted on the comal, with salty, slightly rich notes from the lard worked into the dough. The texture is crisp on the outside and soft and fluffy within, similar to a thick maize bread. When filled with beans, cheese or salsa, they take on complementary flavours that enrich the experience. They are delicious in their own right.

How are itacates served?

They are served hot, fresh off the comal, split in half like a bread roll and filled on the spot with refried beans, crumbled fresh cheese, grilled nopales, requesón with epazote, or chicharrón in green or red salsa. They can be accompanied by molcajete-ground salsa, crema and avocado. In markets they are handed over on a banana leaf or a cloth napkin.

Where do itacates come from?

Itacates originate from central Mexico, particularly the state of Morelos (where they are considered emblematic) and the state of Tlaxcala. The Nahuatl name itacatl (victuals) suggests a pre-Hispanic origin. Today they are prepared mainly in Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán and Yautepec (Morelos), the city of Tlaxcala, Apizaco and various towns of central Mexico and Mexico City.