Itacates: thick masa triangles of central Mexico

What is it?

Itacates are Mexican antojitos in the shape of a thick triangle, made with nixtamalised masa moulded by hand and cooked on a comal until golden on both sides. They are typical of the states of Morelos, Tlaxcala, State of Mexico, Puebla and parts of Mexico City, where they are consumed in markets, eateries and family canteens. Unlike tetelas (which contain a closed filling), itacates are solid pieces of masa without internal filling, seasoned with salt or lard and served as accompaniment to stews: they are split in half to be filled at the moment with beans, cheese, curd cheese, cactus paddles, chicharron in salsa or whatever is on offer. The word itacate comes from the Nahuatl itacatl, meaning provision of food or victuals for the road, referring to the traditional use of these triangles as portable lunch for peasants and workers.

Origin and history

Itacates are a product of pre-Hispanic and colonial Mexican cuisine, particularly of central Mexico. Their name comes from the Nahuatl itacatl (provision, victuals) and reflects their original function: durable and portable food for field workers, travellers and pilgrims. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun records that the Mexica carried itacates on their journeys, referring both to food in general (broad sense) and to folded or thick tortillas (specific sense). Over time, in regions such as Morelos, Tlaxcala and State of Mexico, the term itacate became specifically associated with these thick triangles of masa. Larousse Cocina and the Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy document Morelos itacates as a heritage antojito: they appear in markets of Cuernavaca, Yautepec, Tepoztlan and other municipalities since colonial times. In Tlaxcala, itacates are traditionally smaller and served with roast, mole or chorizo. Traditional cooks keep the know-how alive, passed from generation to generation among peasant and artisan women.

Characteristic ingredients

The making of itacates starts from fresh nixtamalised masa of white, yellow or blue maize (depending on region and availability). Pork lard, salt and sometimes a little beef lard or asiento are added to the masa for flavour; it is worked well until obtaining a firm and manageable paste. Triangles are formed by hand, they are not pressed in a tortilla press: the distinctive thickness (1.5 to 2.5 cm) is achieved by moulding with the palms. Some Morelos itacates measure 10 to 15 cm on a side; Tlaxcalan ones are usually smaller (6 to 8 cm). They are cooked on a hot comal (preferably clay or cast iron) on both sides for 8 to 12 minutes until the masa is golden, slightly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Unlike tetelas, they are not filled before cooking; the filling is added at the moment of eating: the itacate is split in half like a roll and beans, fresh cheese, roasted cactus paddles, curd cheese, chicharron in salsa, green or red salsa are added, according to preference. Each region has characteristic fillings: in Morelos, beans and curd cheese; in Tlaxcala, chorizo and green salsa.

Cultural significance

Itacates are a gastronomic symbol of Morelos and Tlaxcala and form part of traditional Mexican cuisine, recognised by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In markets such as those of Cuernavaca, Tepoztlan and Yautepec (Morelos) and in the one of Tlaxcala capital, traditional cooks prepare fresh itacates on a clay comal and sell them by the piece or by portion to customers who consume them on the spot. They are everyday food of bricklayers, peasants, students and office workers: portable, substantial and economical food. Morelos itacates have become a tourist dish in Tepoztlan and Cuernavaca, where restaurants and eateries present them as an icon of state cuisine. In Tlaxcala, itacates with roast or green chorizo form part of the typical menu offered at patronal festivities and weekends. The word itacate has transcended the dish: in colloquial Mexico, 'darle el itacate' means preparing food to take away, perpetuating its original pre-Hispanic sense of portable victuals.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an itacate and a tetela?

The itacate is a solid triangle of thick masa (1.5 to 2.5 cm) without internal filling; it is opened and filled at the moment of eating. The tetela is thinner (like a tortilla) with closed filling inside (beans, cheese, asiento) cooked along with the masa. The itacate is typical of Morelos and Tlaxcala; the tetela is of Puebla and Oaxaca. They share the triangular shape but are different antojitos.

What do itacates taste like?

They taste of nixtamalised maize toasted on a comal, with salty notes and slightly greasy from the lard incorporated into the masa. The texture is crispy on the outside and soft, fluffy on the inside, similar to a thick maize bread. When filled with beans, cheese or salsa, they integrate complementary flavours that enrich the experience. They are tasty on their own.

How are itacates served?

They are served hot, freshly made from the comal, split in half like a bread roll and filled at the moment with refried beans, crumbled fresh cheese, roasted cactus paddles, curd cheese with epazote, chicharron in green or red salsa. They can be accompanied with molcajeteada salsa, cream and avocado. In markets they are delivered on a banana leaf or cloth napkin.

Where do itacates come from?

Itacates are originally from central Mexico, particularly from the state of Morelos (where they are considered emblematic) and the state of Tlaxcala. The Nahuatl name itacatl (victuals) suggests pre-Hispanic origin. Today they are mainly prepared in Cuernavaca, Tepoztlan, Yautepec (Morelos), Tlaxcala capital, Apizaco and various towns of central Mexico and Mexico City.