Jumiles: what they are and why they're eaten alive in Taxco

What is it?

Jumiles are edible stink bugs of the Pentatomidae family (the species Edessa mexicana and Atizies taxcoensis) endemic to the Huixteco hill, in Taxco, Guerrero, and areas of Morelos. They are gathered between October and February, when the insects gather on oaks to reproduce. Their flavour is intense, herbal, with notes of iodine, cinnamon and mint due to the defensive glands they possess. In Guerrero cuisine they are eaten alive on tacos, ground in a molcajete salsa with chilli and tomato, or toasted on a comal. They constitute an important source of protein and micronutrients in the traditional diet of southern Mexico, as well as being a gastronomic and ritual symbol of the Taxco high plateau since pre-Hispanic times.

Origin and history

The consumption of jumiles has been documented since pre-Hispanic times among the Chontal and Nahua peoples of the present-day state of Guerrero, according to ethnobiological records published by CONABIO. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, in his General History of the Things of New Spain (16th century), mentions the ritual use of various edible stink bugs of the high plateau, and the colonial codices describe the Huixteco hill as a sacred zone where offerings were made with these insects. In the 20th century the celebration of the Jumil Fair was formalised, held each year on the Monday after the Day of the Dead in Taxco, in honour of the warrior deity of the hill. Tradition holds that the soul of the dead returns transformed into a jumil. Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido agree that its gathering remains artisanal and communal, passed from generation to generation among women gatherers of the nearby villages.

Characteristic ingredients

There are two main species: Edessa mexicana, larger and more intense in flavour, and Atizies taxcoensis, smaller and more aromatic. Both are pentatomids that secrete defensive compounds such as trans-2-hexenal, which provide their characteristic citrusy, pungent aroma. They are eaten alive by custom, which enhances their flavour; they are also toasted on a comal until dry to grind into salsas. The typical jumil salsa is prepared by grinding the insects in a molcajete with serrano chilli, roasted tomatillo, salt and, occasionally, garlic. Another common preparation is jumil tacos with a freshly made tortilla, worm salt and lime. Studies by the Instituto Politécnico Nacional report that they provide between 36% and 44% protein by dry weight, as well as iron, vitamin B12, riboflavin and essential amino acids, surpassing even the protein available in conventional red meats.

Cultural significance

Jumiles are an emblem of Guerrero culinary identity and form part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage recognised in Traditional Mexican Cuisine declared by UNESCO in 2010. The Jumil Fair of Taxco gathers thousands of visitors and combines Nahua rituals with Catholic celebrations: a pilgrimage to the Huixteco hill, dances, salsa contests and the crowning of the jumil queen. Overexploitation and climate change have reduced the wild populations, prompting monitoring projects by CONABIO and the Guerrero Ministry of the Environment. Contemporary Mexican cuisine, led by chefs such as Enrique Olvera and Elena Reygadas, has reintroduced jumiles into fine-dining menus, positioning them as an ingredient representative of the movement to revalue Mexican edible insects internationally.

Frequently asked questions