Lengua de vaca: a traditional wild quelite

What is it?

Lengua de vaca (Rumex crispus, curly dock) is a wild quelite of the Mexican altiplano, with long leaves wavy at the edges (hence its common name, 'cow's tongue') in dark green and a slightly tart, astringent flavour. It belongs to the Polygonaceae family and grows spontaneously in disturbed soils, milpas, pastures and roadside verges of central Mexico: the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Guanajuato. It is harvested mainly between March and September. It is eaten mostly by rural communities of the altiplano in stews, cheese fritters, broths, quesadillas and scrambled eggs. Its tartness recalls lemon or European sorrel, which makes it versatile in stews and in preparations that call for a tart counterpoint. It is one of the lesser-known quelites in urban markets but highly valued in country home kitchens.

Origin and history

Lengua de vaca has a wide distribution (native to Eurasia, naturalised in the Americas centuries ago) and in Mexico its use as a quelite is part of the wild repertoire of the altiplano. Although some ethnobotanical sources suggest introduction after the conquest, others describe it as a long-established plant adapted to the Mesoamerican ecosystem. The Nahua, Otomi, Mazahua and mestizo farming communities of the altiplano have traditionally gathered it. CONABIO documents Rumex crispus as a plant naturalised in disturbed soils throughout the country. Larousse Cocina lists it among the traditional quelites of central Mexico. SADER includes lengua de vaca within the rescue of Mexican quelites. Its consumption has been kept up mainly in rural family kitchens rather than in urban markets, which has made it a less visible but very much alive quelite in its regional context. It is an example of the wild resources used by farming communities of the altiplano.

Characteristic ingredients

Lengua de vaca is a perennial plant 60-150 cm tall, with a fleshy yellow taproot, erect reddish stems, long lance-shaped leaves with wavy edges (which give it the name, for their likeness to a cow's tongue) and inflorescences in panicles of small greenish flowers that turn reddish on ripening. It grows in moist soils, plateaux and fields. The tender leaves contain oxalic acid (responsible for the tart, astringent flavour), vitamin C, vitamin A, iron, calcium, magnesium and antioxidants. Because of the oxalic content, it should be eaten in moderation and well cooked, particularly by people with kidney problems. It is prepared sauteed with onion, garlic and chilli; in fritters with fresh cheese; in scrambled eggs Mexican-style; in quesadillas; and in country broths. It is briefly boiled to reduce the oxalic acid and soften the leaves. The younger leaves are the most tender; the mature ones develop bitterness and fibre. It is recognisable by its elongated shape and curly edges.

Cultural significance

Lengua de vaca is a quelite associated with the rural cooking of the Mexican altiplano, particularly in Otomi, Mazahua, Nahua and mestizo farming communities of the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Guanajuato. It forms part of the repertoire of wild edible herbs that supplement the milpa diet during the rainy season. SADER and CONABIO promote the rescue of quelites as a strategy for food security and the conservation of the traditional knowledge tied to gathering them. Larousse Cocina mentions lengua de vaca as an example of the traditional Mexican quelites. Although it does not appear in urban markets as often as verdolagas or quintoniles, its consumption remains active in villages and hamlets. It forms part of the corpus of plants associated with traditional Mexican cuisine, Intangible Heritage of Humanity declared by UNESCO in 2010. Its natural tartness makes it a food valued by farming women who know its properties and ways of preparing it. It is a link of ethnobotanical knowledge passed on orally between generations.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between lengua de vaca and other quelites?

Lengua de vaca has a slightly tart flavour from its oxalic acid content, distinct from the neutral herbal flavour of quintoniles or cenizo. Its leaves are elongated and wavy at the edges, while other quelites have wider or more branched leaves. It belongs to the Polygonaceae family (with rhubarb and sorrel), distinct from the Amaranthaceae family of most traditional quelites.

What does lengua de vaca taste like?

It has a characteristic tart, astringent flavour, similar to European sorrel or a cross between lemon and spinach. Cooking reduces the oxalic acid and softens the flavour, leaving more balanced vegetal notes. Its natural tartness brings brightness to stews without needing citrus. It pairs especially well with fresh cheese, egg and chilli.

How is lengua de vaca prepared?

The tender leaves are briefly boiled (5 minutes) to reduce the oxalic acid and soften the texture. They are then sauteed with onion, garlic and chilli; used in fritters with fresh cheese; in scrambled eggs Mexican-style; in quesadillas; in country broths; and as a side. The younger leaves are the most tender and pleasant. It should be eaten in moderation because of its oxalate content.

Where does lengua de vaca come from?

Rumex crispus is native to Eurasia, naturalised in the Americas for centuries. In Mexico it grows wild in disturbed soils across the country, with culinary use concentrated in the central altiplano: the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Guanajuato. It is part of the wild quelite repertoire used by Otomi, Mazahua, Nahua and mestizo farming communities.