Lengua de vaca: what this quelite is, taste and uses

What is it?

Lengua de vaca (Rumex crispus) is a wild quelite (edible green) of the Mexican high plateau, with elongated leaves wavy at the edges (hence the common name, meaning 'cow's tongue') in dark green, and a slightly tart, astringent flavour. It belongs to the Polygonaceae family and grows spontaneously in disturbed soils, milpas, pastures and roadsides of central Mexico: the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Guanajuato. It is harvested mainly between March and September. It is eaten chiefly by rural communities of the high plateau in stews, fritters with cheese, broths, quesadillas and scrambled eggs. Its tartness recalls lemon or European sorrel, which makes it versatile both in stews and in preparations where an acidic counterpoint is sought. It is one of the lesser-known quelites in urban markets but is highly valued in country family kitchens.

Origin and history

Lengua de vaca has a wide distribution (native to Eurasia, naturalised in the Americas centuries ago) and in Mexico its consumption as a quelite forms part of the wild recipe book of the high plateau. Although some ethnobotanical sources suggest it was introduced after the conquest, others describe it as a plant with an ancient presence adapted to the Mesoamerican ecosystem. The Nahua, Otomi, Mazahua and mestizo farming communities of the high plateau have traditionally gathered it. CONABIO documents Rumex crispus as a plant naturalised in disturbed soils throughout the country. Larousse Cocina records it among the traditional quelites of central Mexico. SADER includes lengua de vaca within the revival of Mexican quelites. Its consumption has been maintained mainly in rural family kitchens rather than in urban markets, which has made it a less visible but fully current quelite in its regional context. It is an example of the wild resources used by the farming communities of the high plateau.

Characteristic ingredients

Lengua de vaca is a perennial plant 60-150 cm tall, with a fleshy yellow taproot, erect reddish stems, long lance-shaped leaves with wavy edges (from which it takes its name due to its resemblance to a cow's tongue) and inflorescences in panicles of small greenish flowers that turn reddish as they ripen. It grows in moist soils, plateaus and fields. The tender leaves contain oxalic acid (responsible for the tart, astringent flavour), vitamin C, vitamin A, iron, calcium, magnesium and antioxidants. Because of the oxalic content, it should be eaten in moderation and well cooked, particularly by people with kidney problems. It is prepared sautéed with onion, garlic and chilli; in fritters with fresh cheese; in Mexican-style scrambled eggs; in quesadillas; and in country broths. It is boiled briefly to reduce the oxalic acid and soften the leaves. The youngest leaves are the most tender; the mature ones develop bitterness and fibre. It is recognised by its elongated shape and crinkled edges.

Cultural significance

Lengua de vaca is a quelite associated with the rural cuisine of the Mexican high plateau, particularly in the Otomi, Mazahua, Nahua and mestizo farming communities of the State of Mexico, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Morelos and Guanajuato. It forms part of the repertoire of wild edible herbs that complement the milpa diet during the rainy season. SADER and CONABIO promote the revival of quelites as a strategy for food security and the conservation of the traditional knowledge associated with their gathering. Larousse Cocina mentions lengua de vaca as an example of traditional Mexican quelites. Although it does not appear as frequently in urban markets as purslane or quintoniles, its consumption remains active in villages and hamlets. It forms part of the corpus of plants associated with traditional Mexican cuisine, Intangible Heritage of Humanity declared by UNESCO in 2010. Its natural tartness makes it a food valued by country women who know its properties and ways of preparing it. It is a link in ethnobotanical knowledge passed on orally between generations.

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