Molotes: the fried masa empanada of Oaxaca and Puebla

What is it?

Molotes are antojitos of nixtamalised maize masa shaped like elongated croquettes or oval or cylindrical pies, filled with various stews and fried in plenty of lard or oil until golden. Although their consumption extends across much of central and south-eastern Mexico, they are especially emblematic in Puebla and Oaxaca, where they have characteristic variants. The most popular fillings include chicken or pork tinga, potato with chorizo, meat picadillo, pumpkin flower with cheese, huitlacoche, requesón and plantain. They are generally served covered with cream, crumbled fresh cheese, shredded lettuce and green or red salsa, although in Oaxaca they are also offered plain to dip in chilli salsa. They are market, fonda and kermés food, perfect to take away and eat while walking, which has made them a hallmark of Puebla and Oaxaca street food.

Origin and history

The name molote comes from the Nahuatl molotl, meaning bundle, tied package or rolled wrap, referring to the cylindrical shape of the antojito. Its origin is pre-Hispanic in terms of masa technique, but the fried version with lard and meat and cheese fillings is clearly colonial, arising from culinary mestizaje after the arrival of the Spaniards. In Puebla, the molote is part of the traditional antojito repertoire alongside cemitas, chalupas and tlacoyos, and is documented from the 19th century in Puebla recipe books. In Oaxaca, the regional variant is slightly different: thinner, with masa that sometimes incorporates cooked plantain or potato, giving it a particular texture, and they are usually smaller. Puebla cuisine, one of the most documented and celebrated in Mexico, has kept this antojito alive through generations of market cooks in places such as El Carmen, El Alto and the barrio de los Sapos. In Oaxaca, molotes are the stars of markets such as Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre. Chef Alicia Gironella DeAngeli and chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita have extensively documented this antojito in works such as the Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana.

Characteristic ingredients

The basic masa of the molote is nixtamalised maize, generally white, mixed with salt and sometimes with pork or vegetable lard for greater flexibility and flavour. In Oaxaca, the most typical version incorporates a third or half of cooked, mashed plantain, which gives it a yellowish colour, a softer texture and a slight sweetness that contrasts with the savoury filling. Small cylindrical or torpedo-shaped portions are formed, filled with a teaspoon of the chosen stew and sealed at the ends. Fillings vary by region: in Puebla, chicken or pork tinga with chipotle, potato with chorizo, picadillo and ranchero cheese are common; in Oaxaca, fillings of pumpkin flower with quesillo cheese, shredded black mole and sweet ones with plantain or requesón are also typical. Once formed, they are fried submerged in hot oil or lard until uniformly golden. Some more rustic versions are fried on a comal with little fat. The difference from traditional empanadas is the elongated shape and the exclusive use of maize masa, not wheat.

Cultural significance

Molotes are gastronomic heritage of Puebla and Oaxaca, and represent the richness of the fried-masa antojito in Mexican cuisine. In Puebla they are one of the key antojitos on the traditional fonda menu, alongside cemitas, chalupas, tlacoyos and memelas, and appear at events such as the Mole de Caderas Fair. In Oaxaca they are an emblem of Isthmus and central gastronomy, and form part of the menu of traditional fondas at the 20 de Noviembre Market, known as the pasillo del humo. Oaxacan cuisine was one of those that served as the basis for the dossier that led to the inscription of Traditional Mexican Cuisine on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, with Michoacán as the paradigmatic state. Economically, molotes sustain hundreds of market cooks and street vendors in both states, and are a recognised tourist product. For many diners they are the first entry to Puebla or Oaxacan cooking, due to their accessibility and diversity of fillings that allow regional flavours to be discovered in small bites.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between molotes and masa empanadas?

Molotes are specifically elongated, cylindrical or torpedo-shaped, while empanadas are round or semicircular. In addition, molotes are typically of maize masa, while Mexican empanadas can be of wheat or maize flour. The filling and frying are similar, but the shape marks the visual difference and the regional tradition.

What do molotes taste like?

The fried maize masa is toasted and crisp outside, soft inside. The Oaxacan version with plantain adds a slight sweetness that contrasts with the savoury filling. Fillings vary: tinga gives a chipotle smokiness, potato with chorizo provides creamy texture and chorizo heat, and pumpkin flower with cheese offers soft vegetal notes.

How are molotes served?

In Puebla they are usually served covered with Mexican cream, shredded lettuce, crumbled fresh cheese and green or red salsa, on a plate as a complete antojito. In Oaxaca they are often served plainer, with Oaxacan pasilla chilli salsa or green tomatillo salsa on the side for dipping, and sometimes only with guacamole and grated dry cheese on top.

Where do molotes come from?

Molotes have pre-Hispanic origins as far as the nixtamalised maize masa is concerned, but the modern fried and stuffed version is a product of colonial mestizaje. They are especially typical of Puebla and Oaxaca, where they have distinct regional variants. Their name comes from the Nahuatl molotl, meaning bundle or wrap, referring to their elongated and compact shape.