Oreja de cantaria: what it is and where the mushroom grows

What is it?

The oreja de cantaria is a wild edible mushroom belonging to the species Pleurotus djamor, also known as the pink oyster mushroom, pink shelf fungus or San Juan mushroom. It takes its name from the shape of its fruiting bodies, flat and ear- or fan-shaped, which grow in clusters on the trunks and dead branches of tropical and subtropical trees. Its characteristic pink or salmon colour, especially when young, makes it easy to identify and attractive. It is gathered in the forests of Veracruz, Oaxaca, the State of Mexico, Puebla and Chiapas during the rainy season, and sometimes outside it in humid climates. It is one of the few Mexican wild mushrooms also cultivated on a commercial scale, thanks to its rapid production and its adaptation to substrates such as straw and maize stubble. The oreja de cantaria forms part of Mexico's rich mycological heritage and is eaten stewed, in mixiotes, quesadillas and broths.

Origin and history

The consumption of mushrooms of the genus Pleurotus in Mexico has been documented since pre-Hispanic times. Sahagún records in the Florentine Codex various lignicolous mushrooms (those that grow on wood) eaten by the Mexica, possibly including Pleurotus djamor and related species. The ethnomycologist Gastón Guzmán described this genus extensively in his fieldwork in south-eastern Mexico, where they go by regional names such as oreja de cantaria, oreja blanca, seta rosa or nanácatl in Nahuatl. The name cantaria comes from Spanish, probably in reference to the sound made when the fresh ears are broken or to their shape like small trumpets, although it may also derive from cántaro (pitcher) because of their curved form. In south-eastern Mexico, in Veracruz and Oaxaca, it has been used by the Totonac, Nahua and Zapotec peoples. SADER, through INIFAP, documents the controlled cultivation of Pleurotus djamor as a productive alternative for tropical Mexican areas, making use of agricultural residues as a substrate. Its culinary and nutritional value has been re-evaluated in contemporary Mexican cooking.

Characteristic ingredients

Pleurotus djamor is a basidiomycete fungus of the family Pleurotaceae that grows on the trunks and dead branches of tropical and subtropical trees. Its caps are ear-, fan- or shell-shaped, measure between 5 and 15 centimetres in diameter and are arranged in imbricated groups, one on top of another. The colour of the cap ranges from intense salmon pink in young mushrooms to pinkish beige or white in mature ones. Its gills are white and decurrent (running down the stem), and its stem is short and off-centre. The flesh is white, firm when young and more fibrous when mature. The flavour is delicate, slightly sweet and faintly fruity, recalling that of European oyster mushrooms but with a unique profile. In Veracruz and Oaxaca cooking it is prepared stewed with epazote, garlic and lard; in masa quesadillas with coriander and cheese; in mixiotes with guajillo chilli and achiote; or sautéed with onion and serrano chilli. It is also used in masa soups and in vegetarian preparations as a meat substitute.

Cultural significance

The oreja de cantaria is an emblem of the mycological richness of south-eastern Mexico and an increasingly visible ingredient in contemporary cooking. Its commercial cultivation, driven by institutions such as INIFAP and by rural cooperatives in Veracruz, Puebla, Oaxaca and Tabasco, has made it possible to turn a traditional wild mushroom into a sustainable productive alternative, especially for rural communities that make use of maize stubble as a substrate. It forms part of the ethnomycological heritage implicitly inscribed within the traditional Mexican cuisine recognised by UNESCO in 2010. Research by the Colegio de Posgraduados and INECOL highlights its nutritional value: it is rich in protein (20 to 30% of dry weight), dietary fibre, B-group vitamins and minerals such as zinc and selenium. In the context of contemporary Mexican vegetarian and vegan cooking, the oreja de cantaria has gained popularity as a protein alternative to meat, thanks to its fibrous texture and mild flavour, which lends itself to stews, tacos and barbecue-style vegetable preparations.

Frequently asked questions