What is the difference between papalo and coriander?

Although some people call papalo 'round coriander', they are distinct plants. Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) is of the Apiaceae family with fine feathery leaves and a citrus-herbal aroma. Papalo (Porophyllum macrocephalum) is of the Asteraceae family with thicker rounded leaves and a much more intense aroma, a mix of strong coriander with rue. Papalo is never cooked; coriander is used both fresh and cooked.

What does papalo taste like?

It has a very intense and aromatic herbal flavour, similar to a much stronger coriander with notes of rue, rocket and a slightly medicinal hint. Its character is polarising: it captivates some and seems harsh to others. It brings freshness and contrast to dishes rich in fat and protein, which explains its success in cemitas, tacos and tlacoyos with meat and melted cheese.

Always raw, added at the moment of eating: the whole leaves crown cemitas, tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos, tostadas and are served alongside country broths. It is never cooked or boiled because it loses its aroma immediately. The fresh bouquets are sold in Pueblan markets and kept in water or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper. 3-5 leaves per portion are enough.

Where does papalo come from?

It is native to the Mexican altiplano, particularly Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Oaxaca. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' means 'butterfly herb' for the shape of its leaves. Sahagún documented the quelites in the Florentine Codex. Today it is grown and sold in Pueblan and Tlaxcalan markets, where it remains an essential aromatic herb of regional cooking since pre-Hispanic times.

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Papalo: the aromatic herb of Puebla

What is it?

Papalo (Porophyllum macrocephalum), also called papaloquelite, is an aromatic herb native to the Mexican altiplano of the Asteraceae family, whose rounded green leaves are eaten fresh as a seasoning. It has a characteristic penetrating aroma reminiscent of strong coriander mixed with rue and rocket. It grows wild and is grown in Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, Oaxaca and central Mexico, with the main harvest between May and October. It is essential in Pueblan cooking, where it crowns the cemita, tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos and country soups. Unlike coriander, it is never cooked: it is eaten raw at the moment of serving to preserve its aroma. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'papalotl' (butterfly), because of the shape of its leaves which resemble wings. It is one of the most identity-defining aromas of contemporary Pueblan and Tlaxcalan cooking.

Origin and history

Papalo has a pre-Hispanic origin and was part of the traditional quelites of the peoples of the Mexican altiplano. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún recorded various quelites in the Florentine Codex, including plants akin to Porophyllum. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' means 'butterfly herb'. The Nahuas, Tlaxcalans and Mixtecs ate it as a fresh seasoning and a medicinal plant. CONABIO documents Porophyllum macrocephalum as a wild and semi-cultivated plant in central Mexico. Larousse Cocina lists it as an emblematic aromatic herb of Pueblan cooking. Its uninterrupted use since pre-Hispanic times makes it a living heritage of central Mexican cooking. During the colonial period it was naturally incorporated into mestizo cooking: the cemita poblana, a sandwich of Lebanese-Pueblan tradition, included fresh papalo leaves as an indispensable aromatic counterpoint. Preserving its use maintains a direct connection with the pre-Hispanic milpa cooking of the altiplano.

Characteristic ingredients

Papalo is an annual herbaceous plant up to 1.5 metres tall, with cylindrical hollow stems, alternate rounded or oblong leaves with visible oil glands, and small tubular flower heads with violet flowers. It grows in disturbed soils, milpas, backyards and roadside verges of the central Mexican altiplano. Its leaves contain essential oils rich in tagetone, myrcene, limonene and other volatile terpenes responsible for its penetrating aroma. It provides vitamin C, vitamin A, iron, calcium and antioxidants. It is always eaten raw, in whole leaves added at the end as a fresh ingredient. The leaves are sold in bouquets in Pueblan and Tlaxcalan markets in season (May to October), and should be eaten fresh because they lose their aroma quickly. They keep for a few days in water as a bouquet or wrapped in damp paper in the refrigerator. There are other related species of the genus Porophyllum: papaloquelite (P. ruderale subsp. macrocephalum, practically identical) and pipicha (P. tagetoides) with narrower leaves and a more subtle aroma. In markets the names are often used interchangeably.

Cultural significance

Papalo is one of the living symbols of Pueblan and Tlaxcalan cooking. It defines the aroma of the cemita poblana, the emblematic sandwich made with sesame bread, breaded beef or chicken, Oaxaca cheese or quesillo, chipotle in adobo, avocado and always crowned with fresh papalo leaves. It also appears in tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos, tostadas and country broths. Its raw consumption at the end of a dish is a distinctive culinary trait. SADER and CONABIO promote Mexican quelites as a strategy for food security and biodiversity rescue. It forms part of traditional Mexican cuisine declared Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, particularly in its Pueblan expression. Its sale in bouquets by farming women in markets such as San Francisco de Puebla, the markets of Cholula and the tianguis of Tlaxcala sustains family economies. It is a herb with strong regional roots, which makes it an immediate cultural marker for Pueblans abroad.

Related recipes

Now that you know what it is, try cooking it at home with our step-by-step recipes:

We are preparing recipes for this guide. Check back soon.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between papalo and coriander?: Although some people call papalo 'round coriander', they are distinct plants. Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) is of the Apiaceae family with fine feathery leaves and a citrus-herbal aroma. Papalo (Porophyllum macrocephalum) is of the Asteraceae family with thicker rounded leaves and a much more intense aroma, a mix of strong coriander with rue. Papalo is never cooked; coriander is used both fresh and cooked.
What does papalo taste like?: It has a very intense and aromatic herbal flavour, similar to a much stronger coriander with notes of rue, rocket and a slightly medicinal hint. Its character is polarising: it captivates some and seems harsh to others. It brings freshness and contrast to dishes rich in fat and protein, which explains its success in cemitas, tacos and tlacoyos with meat and melted cheese.
How is papalo used?: Always raw, added at the moment of eating: the whole leaves crown cemitas, tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos, tostadas and are served alongside country broths. It is never cooked or boiled because it loses its aroma immediately. The fresh bouquets are sold in Pueblan markets and kept in water or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper. 3-5 leaves per portion are enough.
Where does papalo come from?: It is native to the Mexican altiplano, particularly Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Oaxaca. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' means 'butterfly herb' for the shape of its leaves. Sahagún documented the quelites in the Florentine Codex. Today it is grown and sold in Pueblan and Tlaxcalan markets, where it remains an essential aromatic herb of regional cooking since pre-Hispanic times.