Papaloquelite: the butterfly quelite of Puebla

What is it?

Papaloquelite, also called papalo or butterfly quelite, is an aromatic herb native to the Mexican altiplano whose leaves are eaten fresh as a condiment. It has rounded or lance-shaped green leaves with a characteristic penetrating aroma that mingles strong coriander, rue and rocket with a slightly medicinal note. It belongs to the Asteraceae family. It is grown and gathered wild mainly in Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Oaxaca. It is essential in Pueblan cooking, where it crowns cemitas, tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos and broths. Unlike other aromatic herbs, it is not cooked but served raw at the moment of eating, which preserves its intense aroma. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'papalotl' (butterfly) and 'quilitl' (edible herb).

Origin and history

Papaloquelite has a pre-Hispanic origin and is part of the traditional quelites of the Mexican altiplano. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' or 'papalotlquilitl' means 'butterfly herb', referring to the shape of its leaves, which recall butterfly wings. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún recorded various quelites in the Florentine Codex and the Nahua, Tlaxcalan and Pueblan peoples ate them as a fundamental part of the milpa diet alongside maize, beans, squash and chilli. CONABIO documents the presence of Porophyllum ruderale as a wild and semi-cultivated plant in central Mexican gardens. Larousse Cocina lists it as an aromatic herb of the Pueblan and central Mexican repertoire. Pueblan cooking maintained its use uninterrupted from before the conquest until today, integrating it into colonial creations such as cemitas (breads brought by Arab and Lebanese families) and crossing it with pre-Hispanic dishes such as tlacoyos. It is a living example of cultural food continuity.

Characteristic ingredients

Papaloquelite comes from the species Porophyllum ruderale subsp. macrocephalum, an annual herbaceous plant up to 1.5 metres tall, with hollow stems, alternate leaves and small violet flowers in tubular heads. It grows in disturbed soils, milpas and roadside verges in warm-temperate regions. Its leaves contain essential oils with tagetone, myrcene, limonene and other terpenes that give it its characteristic aroma. It provides vitamin C, vitamin A, iron, calcium and antioxidants. It is always eaten raw and should not be cooked because it loses its aroma quickly. The bunches are sold fresh in the markets of Puebla, Tlaxcala and Oaxaca, especially between May and October. There is a similar variety called pipicha (Porophyllum tagetoides) with narrower leaves and a more subtle flavour. The traditional papaloquelite of Puebla tends to have broader leaves and a more intense aroma than the one from the State of Mexico. It should be kept in water as a bouquet or wrapped in damp paper in the refrigerator to maintain its freshness.

Cultural significance

Papaloquelite is one of the living symbols of Pueblan and Tlaxcalan cooking. It defines the flavour of the cemita poblana, the emblematic sandwich made with sesame bread, breaded meat, Oaxaca cheese, chipotle in adobo, avocado and always crowned with fresh papalo leaves. It also appears in tlacoyos, memelas, market tacos, mixiotes and rural broths where it is added at the moment of serving. It is part of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity declared by UNESCO in 2010 with the inscription of traditional Mexican cuisine, modelled on the Michoacan Paradigm but with full representation of milpa-based Pueblan cooking. SADER and CONABIO promote the cultivation of quelites as a strategy for food security and the conservation of agrobiodiversity. Its trade sustains the family economies of farming women who harvest bouquets for markets such as San Francisco, Carmen Serdan and the mobile markets of Puebla and Tlaxcala. It represents the living milpa heritage on the contemporary table.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between papaloquelite and papalo?

They are practically the same thing: 'papaloquelite' is the full Nahuatl-mestizo name ('papalo' butterfly + 'quelite' edible herb). In Puebla and at markets 'papalo' or 'papaloquelite' is used interchangeably. Botanically they correspond to Porophyllum ruderale subsp. macrocephalum. Pipicha (Porophyllum tagetoides) is a sister species with a similar aroma but narrower leaves and a milder flavour.

What does papaloquelite taste like?

It has an intense, very aromatic herbal flavour, similar to a much stronger coriander with notes of rue, rocket and a slightly medicinal finish. Its character is polarising: some people love it, others find it harsh. It brings freshness and a counterpoint to dishes rich in fat and protein, which explains its use in cemitas, tacos and tlacoyos with meat and cheese.

How is papaloquelite used?

Always raw, added at the end as a fresh ingredient: the whole leaves crown cemitas, tlacoyos, memelas and tacos, and accompany rural broths. It is never cooked or boiled because it loses its aroma. The bouquets are sold fresh in Pueblan markets. It is kept in water or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper. Just 3-5 leaves per portion are enough to perfume a dish.

Where does papaloquelite come from?

It is native to the Mexican altiplano, particularly Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Oaxaca. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' means 'butterfly herb'. Sahagún documented the quelites in the Florentine Codex and the Nahua peoples ate it as part of the pre-Hispanic milpa diet. Today it remains a full presence in everyday Pueblan cooking and regional markets.