Papaloquelite: what it is, taste and uses in cemitas

What is it?

Papaloquelite, also called pápalo, papalo or butterfly quelite, is an aromatic herb native to the Mexican Altiplano whose leaves are eaten fresh as a seasoning. It has rounded or lance-shaped green leaves with a characteristic penetrating aroma that blends strong coriander, rue and rocket, with a somewhat medicinal touch. It belongs to the Asteraceae family. It is cultivated and gathered wild mainly in Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, the State of Mexico and Oaxaca. It is essential in Puebla cuisine, where it crowns cemitas, tlacoyos, memelas, tacos placeros and broths. Unlike other aromatic herbs, it is not cooked but served raw at the moment of eating, which preserves its intense aroma. Its name comes from the Nahuatl 'papalotl' (butterfly) and 'quilitl' (edible herb).

Origin and history

Papaloquelite is of pre-Hispanic origin and forms part of the traditional quelites of the Mexican Altiplano. Its Nahuatl name 'papaloquilitl' or 'papalotlquilitl' means 'butterfly herb', referring to the shape of its leaves, which resemble butterfly wings. Fray Bernardino de Sahagún recorded various quelites in the Florentine Codex, and the Nahua, Tlaxcalan and Puebla peoples ate them as a fundamental part of the milpa diet alongside maize, beans, squash and chilli. CONABIO documents the presence of Porophyllum ruderale as a wild and semi-cultivated plant in the orchards of central Mexico. Larousse Cocina records it as an aromatic herb of the Puebla recipe book and of central Mexican cuisine. Puebla cuisine has maintained its uninterrupted use from before the conquest to the present day, integrating it into colonial creations such as cemitas (breads brought by Arab and Lebanese families) and giving a mestizo character to pre-Hispanic dishes such as tlacoyos. It is a living example of food-cultural continuity.

Characteristic ingredients

Papaloquelite comes from the species Porophyllum ruderale subsp. macrocephalum, an annual herbaceous plant up to 1.5 metres tall, with hollow stems, alternate leaves and small purplish flowers in tubular heads. It grows in disturbed soils, milpas and roadsides in warm-temperate regions. Its leaves contain essential oils with tagetone, myrcene, limonene and other terpenes that give it its characteristic aroma. It provides vitamin C, vitamin A, iron, calcium and antioxidants. It is always eaten raw; it should not be cooked because it loses its aroma quickly. The bunches are sold fresh in the markets of Puebla, Tlaxcala and Oaxaca, especially between May and October. There is a similar variety called pipicha (Porophyllum tagetoides) with narrower leaves and a more subtle flavour. The traditional papaloquelite of Puebla usually has wider leaves and a more intense aroma than that of the State of Mexico. It should be kept in water as a bunch or wrapped in damp paper in the refrigerator to keep it fresh.

Cultural significance

Papaloquelite is one of the living symbols of Puebla and Tlaxcala cuisine. It defines the flavour of the cemita poblana, an emblematic sandwich made with sesame bread, breaded escalope, Oaxaca cheese, chipotle in adobo, avocado and always crowned with fresh papalo leaves. It also appears in tlacoyos, memelas, tacos placeros, mixiotes and peasant broths where it is added at the moment of serving. It forms part of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity declared by UNESCO in 2010 when traditional Mexican cuisine was inscribed, with the model of the Michoacán Paradigm but with full representation of the milpa cuisine of Puebla. SADER and CONABIO promote the cultivation of quelites as a strategy for food security and the conservation of agrobiodiversity. Its sale supports the family economies of women farmers who harvest bunches for markets such as San Francisco, Carmen Serdán and the mobile markets of Puebla and Tlaxcala. It represents the living milpa heritage on the contemporary table.

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