Christmas adobo pork leg: what it is and how to roast it

What is it?

The Christmas marinated pork leg is one of the central dishes of the Mexican Christmas Eve dinner, especially popular in large families of central and northern Mexico where a generous cut of pork is preferred. It consists of a whole rear pork leg (4-6 kg) marinated for 24-48 hours in a deep adobo of rehydrated dried chillies (guajillo, ancho, pasilla, chipotle), spices (cumin, oregano, pepper, clove, cinnamon), vinegar or orange juice, garlic and herbs. It is baked slowly for several hours until the meat falls apart at the touch and the skin is crispy and caramelised by the adobo. It is served carved into slices or shredded, accompanied by the concentrated adobo sauce, warm tortillas, refried beans and Christmas Eve salad. It is a communal and deeply festive dish.

Origin and history

The marinated leg as a culinary technique is a product of Mexican colonial mestizaje, a fusion of the Spanish techniques of adobo (marinating with vinegar and spices) with the pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican chillies and aromatics. Larousse Cocina notes that the word adobo comes from the old Spanish 'adobar' (to prepare) and designates a paste or sauce for marinating meat, a technique widespread throughout Latin America with local variants. In Mexico the adobo was enriched with dried chillies (guajillo, ancho, pasilla, chipotle, mulato), achiote in Yucatán, pulque or orange juice as acids, and its own spices. México Desconocido documents that the Christmas marinated leg became established during the 19th century as an affordable alternative to the whole turkey for large families, since pork is cheaper and yields more portions. The tradition spread throughout the country with regional variants: in the north more cumin and vinegar is used; in the centre ancho and guajillo chilli; in the south achiote and bitter orange. It is a flagship dish of the popular and middle-class Mexican Christmas menu.

Characteristic ingredients

The pork leg used is preferably with skin and bone for better flavour and presentation, between 4 and 6 kg for a dinner of 12-15 people. The adobo is made by rehydrating 6-8 guajillo chillies, 4-6 ancho chillies, 2-3 pasilla chillies and 1-2 chipotle chillies in hot water or stock, removing seeds and veins. They are blended with garlic, onion, cumin, Mexican oregano, whole pepper, clove, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, white vinegar or bitter orange juice, and plenty of salt. The paste is strained for a smooth texture. Small incisions are made in the leg with a sharp knife and the adobo is rubbed inside and out with gloves, ensuring penetration into all the crevices. It is refrigerated for 24-48 hours, covered. To bake: it is placed in a large tray on a bed of onion, whole garlic and carrot, covered with foil and baked at 160 °C for 4-5 hours, uncovering for the last hour to brown and caramelise the surface. Variants include birria in Jalisco, mole in Oaxaca or cochinita pibil in Yucatán.

Cultural significance

The Christmas marinated leg is a communal dish par excellence, ideal for large family gatherings of 12 to 20 people, characteristic of the Christmas Eve menu of many mestizo Mexican families. Its preparation is a ritual of the afternoon of 24 December, with aromas that fill the house during the long baking, anticipating the festive dinner. It is presented whole at the table to impress the guests and carved in front of them by the patriarch or cook, or shredded beforehand to be served in quick tacos. The leftovers are used in the following days as tortas, tacos, sandwiches and tinga. The Mexican pork economy has significant peaks in December because of the festive demand. Traditional Mexican cuisine was recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, and mestizo Christmas dishes such as the marinated leg are part of that heritage. It represents Mexican culinary creativity: taking an economical cut (pork leg) and transforming it into a festive banquet of the highest quality thanks to the chilli adobo.

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