Pitaya: what it is, types, taste and how to eat it

What is it?

The pitaya is one of the most spectacular and ancient fruits of Mexican cooking: a fleshy cactus fruit, round or oval, with skin covered in small spiny scales and creamy, juicy inner pulp full of small crunchy edible seeds. There are two main botanical groups under the name pitaya: the true Mexican pitayas, fruits of columnar cacti of the genus Stenocereus, abundant in semi-arid regions such as Oaxaca, Puebla, Jalisco and Michoacán, harvested in May-July; and the pitahayas or climbing pitayas of the genus Hylocereus, known internationally as dragon fruit, which are also native to Mesoamerica but have become popular globally. The traditional Mexican pitayas come in varieties of white, red, yellow, purple and pink pulp, and are eaten fresh, in aguas frescas, lollies, jams, ice creams and, to a lesser extent, in salsas and traditional alcoholic drinks such as pitaya colonche.

Origin and history

Pitayas are fruits native to Mesoamerica with use documented from pre-Hispanic times. The name comes from the Antillean Taíno, the Caribbean language that the Spanish brought to the continent. The Nahua and other peoples of central and southern Mexico knew the pitayas by various regional names and consumed them in their annual season as an important seasonal event. Francisco Hernández, in his Natural History of New Spain (16th century), documents several species of pitaya and their dietary and medicinal uses. The Mixteca Baja region of Oaxaca-Puebla is considered one of the centres of domestication of Stenocereus, with ancient crops in towns such as Tehuacán, San Juan Raya and the Oaxacan Mixteca, where annual pitaya fairs are still held today. In the 20th century, the climbing pitahaya (Hylocereus) experienced a global commercial boom after its introduction to Vietnam, Israel and other countries, where it became a high-value export crop. Mexico has seen a resurgence in the cultivation of traditional pitayas (Stenocereus) and pitahayas (Hylocereus), with regions such as Jalisco, Quintana Roo and Yucatán joining production. CONABIO and SADER recognise the biocultural and economic importance of these cacti, particularly for food security in semi-arid areas and for the conservation of cultural landscapes.

Characteristic ingredients

The main genera and species are: Stenocereus pruinosus (May pitaya, the main one cultivated in Oaxaca-Puebla, red or white pulp, sweet), Stenocereus queretaroensis (pitaya of Querétaro and Jalisco, red pulp, very sweet, ideal for agua fresca), Stenocereus stellatus (pitaya xoconostle, tart) and Stenocereus thurberi (sweet Sonoran pitaya). The climbing pitahayas include Hylocereus undatus (white pitahaya, white pulp with black seeds and pink skin, the most cultivated globally), Hylocereus costaricensis (intense red-magenta pulp) and Hylocereus megalanthus (yellow pulp, native to South America). To prepare the Mexican pitayas, the fine spines are removed by wiping with a cloth or burning them off, they are cut in half and the pulp is eaten with a spoon, or they are peeled and cut into slices. The seeds are edible and provide a crunchy texture. The pulp contains high levels of vitamin C, iron, magnesium, fibre and, in the red-pulped varieties, betalains (powerful antioxidants that stain the lips and tongue after eating them). The traditional Mexican pitaya season is short, from May to July, which makes it a much-anticipated seasonal gastronomic event. Modern pitahayas, by contrast, are produced almost all year round.

Cultural significance

The pitaya is part of Mexico's biocultural heritage and one of the most symbolic fruits of the May season in south-central Mexico. The Regional Pitaya Fair in Tehuacán, Puebla, is one of the most important seasonal gastronomic events of the Mixteca, drawing thousands of visitors each year. Towns such as San Juan Raya, San Antonio Texcala and others of the Puebla Mixteca have made pitaya cultivation their main economic activity, keeping alive traditional techniques of cultivation and trade. Traditional Mexican Cuisine, inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, includes pitayas and other edible cacti as part of the gastronomic heritage. Economically, pitayas represent an alternative source of income in semi-arid areas where other crops do not thrive, and their added value in industrialised forms (jams, juices, ice creams, natural colourings, cosmetics) is growing. The modern cultivated pitahaya, especially in Yucatán and Quintana Roo, has become an export crop with growing markets in the United States, Asia and Europe. Researchers such as Pimienta-Barrios and others have documented the potential of pitayas as a crop of the future in the face of climate change, along with the nopal and the maguey.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between pitaya and pitahaya?

In Mexico, pitaya traditionally refers to the fruit of columnar cacti of the genus Stenocereus, Mexican, with fine spines and a short season from May to July. Pitahaya or dragon fruit is the fruit of climbing cacti of the genus Hylocereus, with pink skin of a shiny scaly appearance, popularised globally. Both are Mesoamerican cacti, but botanically and commercially they are distinct.

What does pitaya taste like?

The traditional Mexican pitaya (Stenocereus) has creamy, very sweet pulp, with notes reminiscent of a cross between watermelon, kiwi and pear, dotted with small crunchy seeds. The red varieties are more intense and aromatic. The climbing pitahaya (Hylocereus) has softer, more delicate pulp, slightly sweet and refreshing, less intense than the Mexican one, with a subtle, almost neutral flavour in some varieties.

How is pitaya served?

It is generally served halved, with the pulp eaten with a spoon, or peeled and cut into cubes. It is also blended with water and a little sugar or lime to make agua de pitaya, and prepared as a sorbet, ice cream and lolly. In the Mixteca, jams and aguas frescas are made; in Sonora, pitaya colonche, a traditional fermented drink. Contemporary chefs use it in cocktails and salads.

Where does pitaya come from?

Mexican pitayas (Stenocereus) are endemic to south-central Mexico, mainly the Mixteca of Oaxaca-Puebla, as well as Jalisco, Michoacán and other semi-arid regions. Pitahayas (Hylocereus) are also native to Mesoamerica and the Caribbean, though they are now cultivated globally. The name pitaya comes from the Antillean Taíno, the Caribbean language brought by the Spanish from the Antilles.