Pulque: what it is, history and the maguey fermentation process

What is it?

Pulque, called octli in Nahuatl, is an ancient fermented drink made from the aguamiel of the maguey, the sweet sap that the heart of the plant accumulates when it is scraped. Its production is concentrated in the central highlands of Mexico, with Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and the State of Mexico as the main producing states, where pulque-yielding agaves (Agave salmiana, A. mapisaga and A. atrovirens) are cultivated. It is milky white, thick, slightly foamy and has an alcohol content of 4-7%. Its raw flavour is acidic, herbaceous and slightly fermented; curados made with fruits, seeds or cereals soften and sweeten the profile. Pulque is a centrepiece of the cuisine and culture of the Altiplano: an everyday drink, a pre-Hispanic ritual offering and a key element of contemporary gastronomy. After decades of decline, in the 21st century it is experiencing a revival thanks to urban pulquerias, festivals and renewed appreciation from chefs and anthropologists.

Origin and history

Pulque has more than 2,000 years of history, with archaeological evidence in the murals of Cholula (Tepantitla) from the Classic period (200-650 AD) showing the ritual consumption of octli. The Toltec, Otomi and Mexica cultures considered it the sacred drink of the goddess Mayahuel and of the 400 rabbits Centzon Totochtin, deities of drunkenness. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun, in the Florentine Codex, describes the scraping and fermentation process in great detail, as well as the strict norms that regulated its consumption: it was only permitted for elders, pregnant women and victorious warriors. During the Colonial period, the pulque-producing haciendas of the Llano de Apan (Hidalgo) and Tlaxcala became one of the most profitable businesses of the viceroyalty. Its decline began during the Porfiriato, with hygienist campaigns that discredited it in favour of industrial beer. Gob.mx, Mexico Desconocido and Larousse Cocina all agree that pulque is re-emerging in the 21st century as a heritage drink, with SADER support for traditional producers (tlachiqueros) and institutional recognition.

Characteristic ingredients

The pulque-yielding maguey reaches maturity between 8 and 14 years, when it sends up the quiote (flower stalk). To produce pulque, the tlachiquero cuts the central meristem before it flowers, creating a cavity where the aguamiel collects. Each plant produces between 5 and 9 litres a day for 4-6 months. The tlachiquero extracts the aguamiel twice a day with an acocote (an elongated gourd that works as a pipette) and takes it to the tinacal, where it ferments in wooden or leather tubs with cultures of Zymomonas mobilis and other lactic bacteria for 12-72 hours. Unfermented aguamiel is a non-alcoholic, refreshing and sweet drink. The classic curados include: oats, pine nut, strawberry, guava, celery, tomato, mamey and walnut. Studies by INSP and UAEH document its richness in probiotics, B-complex vitamins, iron and amino acids. Artisanal brands such as Las Duelas, La Pirata and Don Marranin distribute pasteurised canned pulque, although purists drink it fresh from the tinacal.

Cultural significance

Pulque is one of the pillars of Traditional Mexican Cuisine inscribed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2010, and forms part of the maguey culture recognised by SADER. The historic pulquerias of central Mexico City such as La Risa, Las Duelas and Los Insurgentes are considered heritage spaces. Festivals such as the Maguey and Pulque Fair of Tepetlixpa (State of Mexico) and the Pulque Festival of Apan (Hidalgo) celebrate the culture of the pulque-yielding agave every year. Socioeconomically, traditional production sustains Nahua, Otomi and mestizo communities of Hidalgo and Tlaxcala, generating employment for tlachiqueros and traders. The feminisation of consumption and urban modernisation have transformed the pulquerias, now frequented by hipsters and tourists. Research by INAH, UAEH and UNAM is exploring its revaluation as a biocultural resource in the face of climate change: the maguey is drought-resistant and represents an agroecological alternative to monoculture in the semi-arid highlands of central Mexico.

Frequently asked questions

What does pulque taste like?

Natural pulque has an acidic, herbaceous and slightly fermented flavour, with vegetal notes reminiscent of kefir or coconut water. Its texture is viscous and slightly foamy due to the polysaccharides in the aguamiel. The curados made with fruits (mamey, strawberry, pine nut) soften the acidity and add sweetness, making them more accessible for beginners than plain white or unflavoured pulque.

What is the difference between pulque and mezcal?

Pulque is a fermented drink made from maguey aguamiel, low in alcohol (4-7%); it is not distilled. Mezcal is distilled from the cooked and fermented hearts (pinas) of the agave, with an alcohol content of 36-55%. Pulque retains the textures and nutrients of the aguamiel, while mezcal concentrates alcohols and aromas through distillation. Both come from agave but are completely distinct products.

How is pulque made?

The tlachiquero cuts the meristem of the mature maguey (8-14 years), creates a cavity where the aguamiel collects and extracts it twice a day with an acocote. The aguamiel is taken to the tinacal and ferments in tubs with cultures of Zymomonas mobilis for 12-72 hours, forming a milky, foamy and slightly alcoholic drink that can be cured with fruits or seeds to soften its profile.

Where does pulque come from?

It is native to the central highlands of Mexico, with archaeological evidence in the murals of Cholula from the Classic period (200-650 AD). It is traditionally produced in Hidalgo (Llano de Apan), Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico and parts of Puebla, where native pulque-yielding agaves grow. The Maguey Fair in Apan celebrates this ancient tradition of central Mexico every year.