Pulque: what it is, history and the process of the fermented maguey drink

What is it?

Pulque, called octli in Nahuatl, is a millennia-old fermented drink obtained from the aguamiel of the maguey, the sweet sap that the heart of the plant accumulates when it is scraped. Its production is concentrated in the central highlands of Mexico, with Hidalgo, Tlaxcala and the State of Mexico as the main states, where pulque agaves are grown (Agave salmiana, A. mapisaga and A. atrovirens). It is milky white, thick, slightly foamy and with an alcohol content of 4-7%. Its raw flavour is tart, herbaceous and slightly fermented; the curados with fruit, seeds or cereals soften and sweeten the profile. Pulque is a protagonist of the cooking and culture of the Highlands: an everyday drink, a pre-Hispanic ritual offering and a key element of contemporary gastronomy. After decades of decline, in the 21st century it is experiencing a renaissance thanks to urban pulquerías, festivals and its revaluation by chefs and anthropologists.

Origin and history

Pulque has more than 2,000 years of history, with archaeological evidence in the murals of Cholula (Tepantitla) from the Classic period (AD 200-650) that show the ritual consumption of octli. The Toltec, Otomí and Mexica cultures considered it a sacred drink of the goddess Mayahuel and of the 400 rabbits Centzon Totochtin, deities of drunkenness. Friar Bernardino de Sahagún, in the Florentine Codex, describes in detail the process of scraping and fermentation, as well as the strict rules that governed its consumption: it was only permitted to the elderly, pregnant women and victorious warriors. During the colonial period, the pulque haciendas of the Llano de Apan (Hidalgo) and Tlaxcala became one of the most profitable businesses of the viceroyalty. Its decline began under the Porfiriato, with hygienist campaigns that discredited it in favour of industrial beer. The Mexican government, México Desconocido and Larousse Cocina agree that pulque is re-emerging in the 21st century as a heritage drink, with SADER support for traditional producers (tlachiqueros) and institutional recognition.

Characteristic ingredients

The pulque maguey reaches maturity between 8 and 14 years, when it sends up the quiote (flower stalk). To produce pulque, the tlachiquero cuts out the central meristem before it flowers, creating a cavity where the aguamiel concentrates. Each plant produces between 5 and 9 litres a day for 4-6 months. The tlachiquero extracts the aguamiel twice a day with an acocote (an elongated gourd that works as a pipette) and transports it to the tinacal, where it ferments in wooden or leather vats with cultures of Zymomonas mobilis and other lactic bacteria for 12-72 hours. The unfermented aguamiel is a non-alcoholic, refreshing and sweet drink. The classic curados include: oat, pine nut, strawberry, guava, celery, tomato, mamey and walnut. Studies by the INSP and the UAEH document its richness in probiotics, B-complex vitamins, iron and amino acids. Artisanal brands such as Las Duelas, La Pirata and Don Marranín distribute pasteurised canned pulque, though purists consume it freshly extracted from the tinacal.

Cultural significance

Pulque is one of the pillars of Traditional Mexican Cuisine inscribed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2010, and forms part of the maguey culture recognised by SADER. The historic pulquerías of central Mexico City such as La Risa, Las Duelas and Los Insurgentes are considered heritage spaces. Festivals such as the Maguey and Pulque Fair in Tepetlixpa (State of Mexico) and the Pulque Festival of Apan (Hidalgo) celebrate the culture of the pulque agave each year. Socio-economically, traditional production sustains Nahua, Otomí and mestizo communities of Hidalgo and Tlaxcala, generating employment for tlachiqueros and traders. The feminisation of consumption and urban modernisation have transformed the pulquerías, today frequented by hipsters and tourists. Research by the INAH, the UAEH and UNAM explores its revaluation as a biocultural resource in the face of climate change: the maguey is drought-resistant and represents an agroecological alternative to monoculture in the semi-arid highlands of central Mexico.

Frequently asked questions

What does pulque taste like?

Natural pulque has a tart, herbaceous and slightly fermented flavour, with vegetal notes reminiscent of kefir or coconut aguamiel. Its texture is viscous and slightly foamy from the polysaccharides of the aguamiel. The curados with fruit (mamey, strawberry, pine nut) soften the acidity and provide sweetness, making them more accessible for beginners than the white or natural uncured one.

What is the difference between pulque and mezcal?

Pulque is a fermented drink made from maguey aguamiel, low in alcohol (4-7%); it is not distilled. Mezcal is a distillate of the cooked and fermented agave hearts, with a strength of 36-55%. Pulque keeps the textures and nutrients of the aguamiel, while mezcal concentrates alcohols and aromas after distillation. Both come from agave but are completely different products.

How is pulque made?

The tlachiquero cuts out the meristem of the mature maguey (8-14 years), creates a cavity where aguamiel accumulates and extracts it twice a day with an acocote. The aguamiel is taken to the tinacal and ferments in vats with cultures of Zymomonas mobilis for 12-72 hours, forming a milky, foamy and slightly alcoholic drink that can be curado with fruit or seeds to soften its profile.

Where does pulque come from?

It is native to the central highlands of Mexico, with archaeological evidence in the murals of Cholula from the Classic period (AD 200-650). It is traditionally produced in Hidalgo (Llano de Apan), Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico and parts of Puebla, where the native pulque agaves grow. The Maguey Fair in Apan celebrates this millennia-old central Mexican tradition each year.