Cenizo quelite: what it is, taste and how to cook it

What is it?

Cenizo quelite is a traditional quelite of central Mexico belonging to the species Chenopodium berlandieri, a plant of the Amaranthaceae family whose name comes from the greyish or ashen tone of its leaves, covered by a fine whitish powdery layer. It grows wild in milpas, wastelands and cultivated land of the central highlands, especially in the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla and Hidalgo, where it has been consumed since pre-Hispanic times. It is a close relative of huauzontle (Chenopodium berlandieri subsp. nuttalliae) and of South American quinoa, with which it shares a botanical genus. Its tender leaves and young stems are cooked and prepared in stews with tomato, in tlacoyos, in soups, in fritters with egg and in rural broths. Its flavour is reminiscent of spinach with a herbal and mineral touch characteristic of highland quelites.

Origin and history

Cenizo quelite is one of the oldest edible plants of Mesoamerica, with archaeobotanical evidence of consumption and possible early domestication in central Mexico and the south-western United States. Remains of Chenopodium berlandieri have been found at archaeological sites such as the Coxcatlán cave in Tehuacán, Puebla, within the explorations of Richard MacNeish (Tehuacán Project, 1960–1965), with datings that suggest its use from at least 6,000 years ago. Sahagún, in Book XI of the Florentine Codex, describes various quelites of the genus Chenopodium consumed by the Nahuas. The domestication of this species in the central highlands gave rise to huauzontle, grown for its inflorescences, while the wild or semi-cultivated form is preserved as cenizo quelite. Larousse Cocina and CONABIO document its uninterrupted use in Nahua, Otomí and Mazahua communities to the present day. Its Nahuatl name was tzicquelitl, and various colonial sources record it as one of the staple foods of the indigenous population of the highlands.

Characteristic ingredients

Chenopodium berlandieri is an annual herbaceous plant that reaches between 50 centimetres and two metres in height, with erect branched stems and lobed diamond- or lance-shaped leaves. The underside of the leaves is covered by a fine layer of whitish cells that give it its characteristic ashen or farinose appearance, from which its common name comes. The edible parts are the tender leaves, the young stems and the inflorescences (which in its domesticated variety are huauzontles). The leaves are cooked in salted water and squeezed before being incorporated into stews, since their excessive raw consumption can be heavy because of their oxalate content, as happens with spinach. In Tlaxcala they are prepared in mole de olla; in Puebla and the State of Mexico they are used in blue-masa tlacoyos filled with bean or broad bean; in Hidalgo battered fritters with egg are made, bathed in tomato sauce. Its seeds are edible and similar to quinoa.

Cultural significance

Cenizo quelite represents one of the deepest roots of the Mesoamerican diet and a living link between the pre-Hispanic milpa and contemporary cuisine. It forms part of the set of quelites included in the dossier of traditional Mexican cuisine inscribed in 2010 by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Its domesticated variety, huauzontle, is one of Mexico's native pseudocereals along with amaranth and chia, and played a role similar to that of quinoa in the Andes. In highland communities, the gathering and sale of cenizo quelite is a complementary activity of peasant women who supply local markets such as those of Ozumba, Toluca, Tlaxcala and Apan. Research by CINVESTAV and INIFAP highlights its high nutritional value, with elevated content of protein, calcium and micronutrients. Movements such as the Agroecology Research and Innovation Network and chefs of contemporary Mexican cuisine have reclaimed it as a strategic ingredient for food sovereignty.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between cenizo quelite and huauzontle?

Both are the same botanical species, Chenopodium berlandieri, but huauzontle is the domesticated subspecies (nuttalliae) grown for its edible clustered inflorescences, while cenizo quelite is the wild or semi-cultivated form used for its tender leaves and stems. The name cenizo comes from the greyish tone of the leaves; huauzontle is recognised by its green flower clusters.

What does cenizo quelite taste like?

Its flavour is similar to that of spinach or chard, with a mineral herbal undertone and a slightly saline hint characteristic of highland quelites. The texture of the cooked leaves is soft and delicate. It is less bitter than quintonil and more subtle than papaloquelite. It combines well with maize masa, guajillo chilli, garlic, onion, bean and fresh cheese.

How is cenizo quelite served?

The tender leaves are briefly boiled, drained and incorporated into filled tlacoyos, battered fritters with egg and tomato sauce, sweetcorn soups, broths with guajillo chilli and bean stews. In Tlaxcala they are part of rural mole de olla; in the State of Mexico they are used in vegetarian stuffed chillies. Its seeds, similar to quinoa, are toasted or ground as a pseudocereal.

Where does cenizo quelite come from?

It is native to the central highlands of Mexico and the south-west of North America. In Mexico it grows wild in milpas and cultivated fields of the State of Mexico, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Hidalgo and Mexico City. Its consumption is documented archaeologically from at least 6,000 years ago at sites such as the Coxcatlán cave in Puebla, which places it among the oldest edible plants of the American continent.