Tamal de cazuela: what it is and how to make it without leaves

What is it?

The tamal de cazuela is a traditional preparation of Mexican cuisine that breaks with the classic form of the tamal wrapped in a leaf. Instead of being assembled piece by piece, the maize masa beaten with lard is spread inside a clay dish or mould, filled with a stew of chicken or pork in red, green or pipián mole, and covered with more masa before being baked. The result is a large tamal that is served in slices as if it were a savoury cake. It is very popular in Veracruz, Durango and some central states during the December festivities, Candlemas Day and the posadas, when feeding many diners in a short time is a priority. Larousse Cocina classifies it as a variant of the large unwrapped tamal, related to the zacahuil and the mucbipollo.

Origin and history

The tamal de cazuela inherits the pre-Hispanic logic of large tamales cooked in large containers: the Huastec zacahuil, the Maya pibes and the tamales de cazuela cooked in earthen ovens. When the European oven and the clay dish arrived in Mexico during the colonial period, cooks adapted the technique to dry heat, dispensing with the traditional steamer. Larousse Cocina documents two main strands: the Veracruz one, prepared with green mole or mole de Xico, and the Durango one, seasoned with red chilli and pork. The Larousse Foundation describes the dish as a tamal in cake format that is served by the spoonful or in slices, ideal for family gatherings. Although there is no exact documented date for its appearance, the format gains popularity from the nineteenth century in regional cookbooks and becomes established in the twentieth as a domestic solution for large feasts, especially in states where tamal masa is abundant and banana or maize leaves are scarce in certain seasons.

Characteristic ingredients

The masa contains the same components as the classic tamal: ground nixtamal or corn flour, lard beaten until fluffy, broth or tequesquite water, salt and baking powder in some modern versions. The difference is in the consistency: the masa is slightly more liquid than that of the wrapped tamal so that it spreads as a uniform layer inside the dish. The filling varies by region: in Veracruz green mole with chicken or mole de Xico dominates; in Durango red chilli with shredded pork is used; in other versions rajas with cheese or picadillo appear. The baking is done in a greased clay dish, lasts between 45 minutes and 1 hour at 180 °C, and forms a golden crust on top while the inner masa stays fluffy. Some modern recipes incorporate cream, fresh cheese or pickled chillies as a garnish before serving.

Cultural significance

The tamal de cazuela represents domestic creativity in solving large banquets without the labour of wrapping hundreds of individual tamales. In Veracruz it forms part of the menus of weddings, first communions and posadas; in Durango it appears at wakes, patron saint feasts and large family celebrations. Its practical character has kept it alive in traditional cuisine restaurants and eateries where it is sold by the slice with refried beans. Although it does not enjoy the symbolic status of the mucbipollo or the zacahuil, it shares with them the idea of a 'communal tamal' shared among many. Mexican gastronomy was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, and within that declaration the universe of tamales —including the cazuela one— is one of the pillars of the maize agri-food system. Today it appears at Candlemas festivals, gastronomic fairs and regional cookbooks as an example of culinary creativity.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between tamal de cazuela and a traditional tamal?

The traditional tamal is wrapped individually in maize or banana leaf and steamed. The tamal de cazuela dispenses with the wrapping: the masa and the filling are arranged in layers inside a clay dish and baked. It is quicker to assemble and is served in slices, similar to a savoury cake.

What does tamal de cazuela taste like?

It tastes of fluffy maize masa with lard, impregnated with the mole or salsa used to fill it. The Veracruz version with green mole has herbal notes and mild heat; the Durango one with red chilli and pork is deeper and more spiced. The golden crust from the oven adds a toasted touch reminiscent of corn bread.

How is tamal de cazuela served?

It is cut into slices or squares directly from the dish, as if it were a savoury cake. It is accompanied by refried beans, cream, crumbled fresh cheese and hot salsa to taste. In Veracruz it is served with café de olla or atole; in Durango with champurrado. It is ideal for large feasts because it yields a lot with little work.

Where does the tamal de cazuela come from?

It has two main focuses: Veracruz, where it is prepared with green mole or mole de Xico, and Durango, where it is made with red chilli and pork. The technique of baking tamal masa in a dish is a colonial adaptation of the European oven to the large pre-Hispanic tamales. Today there are variants in Hidalgo, Puebla and the State of Mexico.