Tamales colados: the strained Yucatecan masa with recado rojo

What is it?

Tamales colados are one of the finest preparations of Yucatecan cooking. Their name comes from the technique of straining the maize masa diluted in broth to achieve a silky texture, almost like custard, very different from the fluffy masa of central tamales. They are flavoured with achiote recado rojo, filled with chicken cooked in its own juices, and wrapped in banana leaves. After cooking they come out shiny, orange and almost translucent. They form part of the everyday repertoire of family kitchens in Yucatán and Campeche and usually appear at breakfasts, birthdays and as an offering at Hanal Pixán alongside the mucbipollo.

Origin and history

Larousse Cocina describes tamales colados as a direct heritage of Yucatec Maya cooking and as a preparation that has remained almost unchanged since the colonial period. The use of achiote and the technique of straining the masa predate the arrival of the Spanish; the animals in the filling (chicken, pork) were incorporated after contact. Yucatán Today documents that every Yucatecan family has its own recipe and that in areas such as Mama, Maní, Tixkokob and Mérida tamales colados are an everyday food. Pati Jinich presents them as an elegant dish because of their creamy texture, which is reminiscent of soufflé in consistency. The traditional formula uses nixtamalised maize flour slowly dissolved in chicken broth coloured red with achiote, and is cooked stirring constantly until obtaining a silky paste that is poured over toasted banana leaves alongside the filling.

Characteristic ingredients

Strained masa is prepared by dissolving fresh nixtamalised maize masa or nixtamalised flour (such as Maseca) in cold chicken broth, straining it through a fine sieve to eliminate lumps, and then cooking it while stirring with a wooden spoon until thickening to the consistency of a very dense atole. It is seasoned with recado rojo (achiote, garlic, cumin, pepper, vinegar and salt), a pinch of sugar and lard. The chicken is cooked separately in sour orange juice, garlic and Yucatecan oregano; once shredded it is mixed with tomato, white onion and sweet pepper. To assemble the tamale, a banana leaf is toasted over the flame until flexible, a ladleful of strained masa is placed on it, a portion of chicken is added along with another touch of masa on top, the wrap is closed and it is steamed for 30 minutes. The result is a tamale of almost liquid masa, soft as flan.

Cultural significance

Tamales colados are part of the gastronomic heritage of Yucatán and Campeche. They stand out as the aristocratic tamales of peninsular cooking, associated with important moments such as christenings, first communions, civil weddings and, above all, Hanal Pixán, when they are placed on altars alongside the mucbipollo. Pati Jinich and Yucatán Today rank them among the recipes that best represent the finesse of Yucatec Maya cooking after centuries of mestizaje with Spanish cuisine. The traditional cooks of towns such as Mama and Maní are guardians of the straining technique, which requires patience and a steady wrist so that the masa does not burn or form lumps. In 2010 UNESCO recognised traditional Mexican cuisine as Intangible Heritage of Humanity, and within it Yucatecan cooking, with preparations such as this, is one of the most visible regional pillars.

Frequently asked questions

Why are they called tamales colados?

They are called this because the masa is diluted in broth and strained through a cloth sieve or fine sifter before cooking. That technique eliminates lumps and produces a silky masa, almost liquid when raw and soft as custard after cooking. The term colado refers to the process, not the ingredient. It is the opposite of the lump-beaten fluffy masa of the central tamale.

What is the difference between a tamal colado and an ordinary Yucatecan tamale?

A tamal colado has creamy, soft, shiny masa, almost flan-like in texture. A common Yucatecan tamale (such as a vaporcito or muc bil pollo) has firm masa similar to that of any Mexican tamale. The difference lies in the process: in the colado the masa is diluted and strained; in the others it is beaten. Both share the banana leaf and the achiote recado rojo.

What do tamales colados taste like?

They taste soft, slightly sweet and very aromatic from the achiote. The texture is the most striking feature: it melts on the palate like a savoury flan. Recado rojo brings earthy notes and a slightly spicy background; the chicken cooked in sour orange and Yucatecan oregano provides acidity and depth. The banana leaf perfumes everything with a soft smoky aroma characteristic of south-eastern Mexico.

How are tamales colados served?

They are served hot, one or two per person, opened on the banana leaf so that the orange colour and creaminess can be appreciated. They are accompanied by strained black beans, habanero salsa (chiltomate or ixnipek), pickled red onion and warm tortillas. At Yucatecan breakfast they are the perfect partner for coffee and are served before or instead of huevos motuleños.