Artisanal totopos: dried Oaxacan and Isthmian tortilla

What is it?

Artisanal totopos are dried and crunchy maize tortillas made in different regions of Mexico as a preservation technique and as an antojito in their own right. The word totopo comes from the Nahuatl totopochtli (very toasted thing). In the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (Oaxaca), Zapotec totopos are large pieces (15 to 25 cm) of nixtamalised masa, perforated with the fingers and cooked in clay ovens until completely dried: they can last months without losing quality. In the rest of Mexico, totopos also designate maize tortillas cut into triangles and fried or toasted, the base of chilaquiles, tortilla soups and nachos. The diversity of totopos reflects the richness of Mexican maize culture, where the same name covers diverse techniques and products according to region.

Origin and history

Totopos as a tortilla preservation technique are pre-Hispanic: in Mesoamerica, where there was no refrigeration, drying tortillas was a way to prolong the shelf life of cooked maize. Fray Bernardino de Sahagun in the 16th century describes dried tortillas that lasted weeks as food for Mexica travellers and warriors. Isthmian totopos (from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Oaxaca) are a Zapotec tradition with a probable pre-Hispanic origin, perfected during the colonial period. Zapotec cooks make perforated totopos that are cooked by sticking them directly to the interior walls of clay ovens (similar to tandoors), where they dry in a few minutes. This technique allows totopos to be stored for months, important for a region with a warm climate. In the rest of Mexico, the word totopo was later applied also to triangles of fried tortilla for chilaquiles and soups. Larousse Cocina and Mexico Desconocido document both traditions as heritage, with the Isthmian totopo having a recognised Collective Mark in recent years.

Characteristic ingredients

Isthmian Zapotec totopos are made with nixtamalised maize masa (sometimes with zapalote chico maize, a native race of the Isthmus). Large (15 to 25 cm) and thin tortillas are formed, perforated with the fingers in a regular pattern (the holes allow uniform and crunchy drying), and stuck to the interior walls of a clay oven (comixcal) heated with firewood. In 1 to 3 minutes the totopos dry and detach on their own when ready. The result are crunchy pieces, slightly smoky from the firewood, with a durability of several months if stored in a dry place. Regional variants include Chiapas totopos (smaller and flatter) and yuca totopos from some communities. In the version generalised in Mexico, totopos are common tortillas cut into triangles and fried in hot oil until golden, or oven-toasted. Commercial totopos (Sabritas, Barcel) are industrial chips based on this concept. Each type has distinctive textures, flavours and uses in Mexican cuisine.

Cultural significance

Isthmian totopos are an emblem of the gastronomy of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and form part of the Zapotec cultural heritage. They are consumed accompanying typical dishes such as fish broth, garnachas, black beans, Isthmian mole and as a snack with mixe pasilla chilli sauce or mole tonado. In markets such as Juchitan de Zaragoza, Tehuantepec and Salina Cruz, Zapotec vendors (the legendary tehuanas and juchitecas) sell totopos by the kilo or by the piece, considering them an identity product. Traditional Mexican cuisine, recognised by UNESCO in 2010 as Intangible Cultural Heritage, integrates totopos as a heritage element. The FAO and projects to revalue native maize highlight the Isthmian totopo as an example of sustainable food technology: it uses native maizes, preserves without refrigeration and forms part of an economic chain that sustains Zapotec women. In general Mexican cuisine, fried triangular totopos are the basis of chilaquiles served at popular breakfasts and of tortilla soup, present on menus of eateries, restaurants and homes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Isthmian totopo and common totopo?

The Zapotec Isthmian totopo is a large tortilla (15 to 25 cm), perforated with the fingers and dried in a vertical clay oven until completely dehydrated; it lasts months. The common Mexican totopo is a tortilla cut into triangles and fried or toasted, used for chilaquiles, nachos and soups. They share the concept origin (dry crunchy tortilla) but are different products.

What does an artisanal totopo taste like?

Isthmian ones have an intense toasted maize flavour with smoky notes from the wood-fired oven cooking, crunchy texture that cracks when bitten and stays for weeks. Fried triangular totopos have a fried maize flavour with hot oil notes, are greasier and have a brittle texture. Both are perfect vehicles for salsas and stews.

How are Isthmian totopos served?

They are eaten whole or broken, accompanying typical Isthmus dishes such as fish broth or garnachas. They are also used as spoons to eat black beans, Isthmian mole or stews. During the day, the tehuanas and juchitecas eat them as a snack spread with quesillo or taken with coffee. They are usually served in baskets on the family table.

Where are artisanal totopos from?

Isthmian totopos are originally from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Oaxaca, especially from Juchitan de Zaragoza, Tehuantepec, Ixtaltepec and Zapotec and Zoque communities of the region. Triangular totopos are consumed throughout Mexico but their origin as a dry and reused tortilla is pre-Hispanic and distributed from the centre and south of the country.