Xamues: what they are, taste and how they're eaten

What is it?

Xamues, also called mesquite jumiles or cuchamas in some areas, are large bugs of the species Thasus gigas, gathered on mesquite trees (Prosopis laevigata) and huizache of the semi-arid high plateau of Hidalgo, Querétaro and San Luis Potosí. They are distinguished by their bright red colour with black bands and by their large size, up to 4 cm. Their gathering takes place from May to August, when the adults gather on the branches to feed on the tender mesquite pods. They have a characteristic sour, herbal and aromatic flavour, similar to green apple with notes of cinnamon, due to the defensive glands. They are prepared toasted with salt and lime, ground into a molcajete salsa or in tacos with beans, and form a central part of the traditional Ñañu (Otomi) and Huastec cuisine.

Origin and history

The consumption of xamues is ethnographically documented among the Ñañu (Otomi), Huastec and Nahua peoples of the semi-arid high plateau, associated with the ritual and food use of the mesquite, a sacred Mesoamerican tree. Larousse Cocina and México Desconocido identify them as one of the oldest edible insects of the semi-desert high plateau, gathered at least since the Mesoamerican Classic period. CONABIO Enciclovida documents their geographical distribution and their ecological relationships with the mesquite, a key species of the ecosystem. In the 20th century, anthropologists of the INAH and biologists of the UNAM, led by Julieta Ramos-Elorduy, catalogued them as part of the corpus of Mexican edible insects. The xamue fair, held in municipalities such as Cardonal and Ixmiquilpan (Hidalgo), reflects the survival of this tradition during the summer patron-saint festivals. gob.mx reports efforts to enrol them in sustainable-use programmes as a non-timber forest resource.

Characteristic ingredients

Thasus gigas is a hemipteran of the Coreidae family that measures between 3 and 4 cm in its adult form. It lives in colonies on the mesquite, feeding on the sap and the tender pods. Its red-orange exoskeleton contains defensive terpenic compounds that give it a characteristic citrusy flavour. Traditionally they are gathered by hand in the early hours of the day, purged in salted water and toasted on the comal until golden. Once toasted they are ground with serrano chilli, tomatillo and worm salt to form xamue salsa, which accompanies tacos, bean tamales or eggs in penca. Their nutritional value, according to analyses by the BUAP, is around 40% protein by dry weight, with the presence of calcium, magnesium and natural antioxidants. In the Mezquital Valley region they are also cooked scrambled with egg and pasilla chilli, making up one of the most traditional breakfasts of the Otomi people.

Cultural significance

Xamues are a symbol of the cuisine of the Mexican semi-desert and of Ñañu culture, integrated into the gastronomic heritage recognised by UNESCO in 2010 within the dossier of Traditional Mexican Cuisine. Their consumption respects ecological cycles of the mesquite, which makes them an example of sustainable use studied by the Autonomous University of the State of Hidalgo. The gathering generates significant economic income for indigenous communities of the Mezquital Valley and the Huasteca of San Luis Potosí, where the Xamue Fair is held, an event that brings together tastings, dances and salsa contests. Contemporary cuisine, led by chefs such as Aquiles Chávez (Hidalgo) and Ana Martorell, has taken xamues into fine-dining menus in Mexico City and Monterrey. Researchers at Cinvestav explore their potential as a sustainable protein source against climate change and the drought of the high plateau.

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