Xoconostle: what it is, benefits and uses in cooking

What is it?

The xoconostle is one of the most singular and underused cactus fruits of Mexican cooking: a tart prickly pear belonging to the genus Opuntia, mainly to the species Opuntia matudae, Opuntia joconostle and related Opuntia spp. Unlike the common sweet tuna, the xoconostle is distinguished by its firm, whitish-yellow pulp with pinkish tones in the centre, where the seeds concentrate in a reddish core, and by its markedly tart and slightly astringent flavour, which moves it away from use as a dessert fruit and closer to savoury cooking. It is used as a sour ingredient in fresh pico de gallo-style salsas, in traditional stews such as mole de olla, in preserves such as xoconostle in syrup, in medicinal drinks to control blood sugar, and in moles from several states of central Mexico. It is one of the most versatile and symbolic ingredients of the semi-arid Mexican highlands.

Origin and history

The name xoconostle comes from the Nahuatl xococ, sour or tart, and nochtli, prickly pear, which translates literally as sour prickly pear. Its use is documented from pre-Hispanic times in the codices and colonial chronicles, where it appears as an important ingredient of the Nahua, Otomí and Mazahua cooking of the central highlands. Francisco Hernández, in his Natural History of New Spain (16th century), describes the xoconostle among the useful Mexican plants, attributing medicinal and culinary properties to it. The plant is endemic to the semi-arid areas of the Mexican highlands, mainly the states of Hidalgo, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato and the State of Mexico, where it grows both wild and cultivated. Unlike the nopal and the sweet tuna, which became globalised after the Conquest, the xoconostle remained a predominantly regional Mexican ingredient, without great international spread. In the 20th and 21st centuries, researchers such as José Pimienta-Barrios and Antonio Sosa, together with institutions such as the Institute of Science and Technology of the State of Hidalgo, have documented its nutritional and medicinal properties, particularly its anti-glycaemic capacity. Today it is considered one of the Mexican superfoods and has begun to gain visibility in the contemporary cooking of chefs such as Enrique Olvera and Jorge Vallejo, who incorporate it into fine-dining menus.

Characteristic ingredients

The xoconostle is the fruit of several species of the genus Opuntia that are distinguished from the common nopal by their acidity. The main cultivated and wild species are Opuntia matudae, considered the main cultivated species in Hidalgo and the State of Mexico, and Opuntia joconostle. The fruit is oval, six to eight centimetres, with firm green-yellow or pinkish skin when ripe, and fleshy whitish-yellow pulp with a reddish central core where the seeds accumulate. To use it in cooking, the skin is peeled, it is cut in half, the seed core is removed (sometimes keeping a few) and the firm pulp is chopped. In fresh salsas, it is combined with red onion, coriander, serrano chilli and lime, giving a distinctive pico de gallo. In mole de olla, a dish of Hidalgo and Querétaro, the halved xoconostles are cooked together with the beef, the chillies and the vegetables, providing a characteristic acidity that replaces the lime. The preserve in syrup is typical of regions such as Tula and Pachuca: it is cooked in syrup with cinnamon and clove, resulting in a very special sweet-and-sour treat. It is also made into aguas frescas, jams, roasted salsas and fermented medicinal drinks. SADER highlights its anti-glycaemic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, attributed to betalains and phenolic compounds.

Cultural significance

The xoconostle is part of the biocultural heritage of the Mexican highlands and one of the endemic fruits that best represent the adaptation of Mexican cooking to semi-arid regions. It is a key ingredient of the cooking of Hidalgo, Querétaro, Guanajuato and Zacatecas, present in traditional dishes such as mole de olla, xoconostle salsas and typical sweets. Each year regional fairs are held such as the Xoconostle Fair in San Martín de las Pirámides and in Actopan, Hidalgo, where varieties, preserves, salsas and derived products are exhibited. Traditional Mexican Cuisine, declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, includes the xoconostle among the representative ingredients of the regional cuisines. Economically, it sustains small rural producers in marginalised semi-arid areas where other crops do not thrive, offering an alternative source of income and food security. Scientific studies published by researchers from the IPN, UNAM and research centres have documented its potential in the treatment of type 2 diabetes, opening a growing nutraceutical market. In contemporary Mexican cooking, chefs such as Enrique Olvera (Pujol), Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil) and Diana Kennedy have incorporated it into their menus, giving it international visibility as one of the great rediscoveries of the Mexican pantry.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between xoconostle and sweet tuna?

Although both are fruits of the genus Opuntia, the common tuna (Opuntia ficus-indica) is sweet, juicy and eaten as a dessert fruit. The xoconostle (Opuntia matudae or joconostle) has firm, markedly tart pulp and is used mainly as a sour ingredient in savoury cooking: fresh salsas, mole de olla, stews and preserves. Its acidity is comparable to that of lime.

What does xoconostle taste like?

It has an intensely tart and slightly astringent flavour, comparable to green lime or tamarind, with subtle fruity notes. The pulp is firm and crunchy, not juicy like the sweet tuna. The reddish seed core provides an even more concentrated acidity. Cooked in syrup it loses some of its acidity and becomes sweet-and-sour, similar to a quince or tart-plum preserve.

How is xoconostle served?

In fresh salsas it is peeled, the seed core is removed and it is chopped to combine with onion, serrano chilli and coriander, ideal for grilled-meat tacos. In mole de olla it is halved and cooked with the beef and the chillies. In syrup, cooked with cinnamon and clove, it is served as a sweet or dessert. Agua fresca is also made by blending the pulp with water and a sweetener.

Where does xoconostle come from?

It is native to the semi-arid Mexican highlands, mainly the states of Hidalgo, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato and the State of Mexico. Its name comes from the Nahuatl xococ-nochtli, sour prickly pear, and its use is documented from pre-Hispanic times in colonial chronicles such as those of Francisco Hernández. Unlike the sweet tuna, it remained an exclusively Mexican ingredient until the 21st century.