Tabiche chilli: what it is, heat and uses in Oaxaca

What is it?

The tabiche chilli is a regional chilli grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, part of the repertoire of chillies that sustain traditional Oaxacan cuisine. There are two presentations: the fresh tabiche (bright green, elongated and slender, 7-10 cm) and the dried tabiche (dark wrinkled red after sun-drying). It belongs to the species Capsicum annuum. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), above the jalapeño. It contributes a vegetal-herbal flavour when fresh and a fruity-slightly smoky flavour when dried, with notes of red fruits. It is used in regional Oaxacan moles, raw and cooked salsas, Oaxacan stuffed chillies and traditional dishes of the Central Valleys. It is one of the lesser-known regional chillies nationally but very present in Oaxacan markets such as Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila.

Origin and history

The tabiche chilli is a Mesoamerican chilli grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca since pre-Hispanic times. The Zapotec peoples have maintained it as part of their traditional milpa for centuries. Larousse Cocina and Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana identify it as a regional Oaxacan chilli with its own identity, distinct from the chile de agua, the chilcostle and the chilhuacle. Oaxacan cuisine is recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010, and the tabiche is part of the repertoire of regional chillies that sustain it. CONABIO documents the tabiche as a regional variety of Capsicum annuum within the heritage of native Mexican chillies. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli with artisanal production. Its cultivation is concentrated on small family plots of the Central Valleys, where Zapotec producers maintain its seed and traditional sun-drying techniques.

Characteristic ingredients

The tabiche chilli is a Capsicum annuum grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. Fresh it measures 7-10 cm, is elongated and slender, with smooth bright-green skin; dried it is harvested ripe and red and dehydrated in the sun for several days, becoming wrinkled and dark red. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 SHU). Its pulp is fine and contributes a distinctive flavour: vegetal-herbal and crunchy when fresh; fruity, slightly smoky and deep when dried, with notes of red fruits and a sweet hint. To use it fresh, it is roasted on the comal and deveined for rajas or stuffing; dried, it is toasted briefly and rehydrated in hot water for about 15 minutes before being blended. It is used in regional Oaxacan moles (especially smaller-scale red moles and coloraditos), raw salsas with tomato and lime, Oaxacan stuffed chillies with fresh cheese, and dishes such as steak in tabiche chilli. It pairs very well with tomato, garlic, avocado leaf and coriander.

Cultural significance

The tabiche chilli forms part of the repertoire of regional chillies of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca that sustain Oaxacan cuisine recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2010. It is an everyday ingredient in traditional Zapotec kitchens and appears in regional moles, table salsas and stuffed chillies. Its artisanal production on small family plots sustains the economy of Zapotec producers of the Central Valleys. SADER and CONABIO recognise it as a regional chilli with cultural and genetic value. In the markets of Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila it is sold fresh or dried depending on the season, as a local product. In contemporary cooking, Oaxacan chefs such as Alejandro Ruiz (Casa Oaxaca) and traditional cooks such as Abigail Mendoza (Tlamanalli) revive it to champion regional chillies against the homogenisation of the market. It is a chilli representative of Oaxacan culinary diversity, alongside the chilhuacle, the chilcostle, the costeño and the de agua.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between the tabiche chilli and the costeño rojo chilli?

Both are elongated and spicy Oaxacan chillies but they come from distinct varieties and different regions. The tabiche is grown in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, is usually a little longer (7-10 cm) and is eaten both fresh and dried. The costeño rojo is grown in the Costa Chica, measures 6-8 cm and is eaten dried. Their aromatic profile is also distinct: the tabiche is more herbal-vegetal, the costeño more fruity.

What does the tabiche chilli taste like?

Fresh it contributes a crunchy vegetal-herbal flavour; dried it contributes a fruity and slightly smoky flavour with notes of red fruits and a sweet hint. Its heat is moderate-high (8,000-15,000 Scoville units), above the jalapeño. When toasted briefly it develops aromas of cooked fruit and a caramel hint that enriches regional moles and Oaxacan salsas.

What is the tabiche chilli used for?

It is used in regional Oaxacan moles (rojo, smaller-scale coloradito, mole de cazuela), raw salsas with tomato and lime, Oaxacan stuffed chillies with fresh cheese, and traditional dishes such as steak in tabiche chilli. Fresh it is prepared in rajas with onion and included in tlayudas and memelas. It is an everyday chilli in the Zapotec kitchens of the Central Valleys.

Where does the tabiche chilli come from?

It is native to and endemic to the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, traditionally grown on small family milpas by Zapotec communities in municipalities such as Tlacolula, Etla and Zaachila. SADER recognises it as a regional Oaxacan chilli and CONABIO includes it in the heritage of native Mexican chillies. It forms part of the repertoire of chillies that sustain Oaxacan cuisine recognised by UNESCO.